hardsteppa

This thread is shite. Of course some ppl get pissed off for seeing gtr badge on non-gtr skyline, cause you're claiming cred that you haven't earned. Like if you claim holding a kickboxing title when all you've done is throw a few roundhouse kicks into the bag hanging in the garage, ppl will go 'piss off u wanker'. Same principle.

Whats the location there?

To add to this i drove thru the valley last nite, pulled up at lights next to a black bmw x5. Guess which one of us revs their engine, then drags off from the lights? No, not me...oh but thats ok, his was stock, he's not a hoon...yeh right

Jack Dempsey got teased and called Jacked Empty by all the cool kids in high school, and everyone knows all the cool kids drive modified cars. This is his way of dealing with his unresolved teenage angst, and getting back at them. How would a defective (aka faulty/dangerous) vehicle be safer on the roads for the general public than a vehicle that may be illegally modified (ie, adj coilovers at legal height) but not defective?

What's the budget? I have used the xforce, venom and magnaflow metal cats, magnaflow was prob best value for money. 200cell model.

your gmail address rather than a company email inspires confidence for me. Too many business squander money on needless overheads like 'websites', 'employees', 'legitimate operations' and so on. Plus the fact you list you have 10 cars and a suitcase of money at your possession. If you can offer low interest rates, and individually drawn loan contracts I would be keen.

To be clear tho, thanks for yr input, was going to pm u anyway about it so glad u chipped in. I 'm not an engineer and really for the priduction cost of under $50, not going to pay to consult one for this lil job lol so will just be using the knock it up and see how it performs approach.

Lol...since the weight difference we're talking will be a matter of 100g, not even kilos, the weight i don't think will really become a factor. If we look at the stock strutbraces fitted front/rear as an example, i don't think it even has to be that thick-walled, so will use them as a comparitve starting point and see hos it goes.

No worries, so what would be yr tecommendation as the best tu use for bracing?

for my application and usage the few hundred grams weight difference really isn't going to matter, but on that note the strength difference isn't going to be that massive either it seems. For bending said tubing, either square or round, is press-bending as opposed to having mandrel bends, likely to be an issue in terms of creating a flex-point in the brace?

more chassis bracing, like in boot, where it won't be seen. Thanks, will have a look for values chart.

slight hijack, but since relevant to the thread topic - after not finding the chassis braces I want, thinking I will just make my own. My understanding is, given an equal diameter and wall thickness, square tube will be stronger and flex less than round tube, is that right?

after not finding the chassis braces I want, thinking I will just make my own. My understanding is, given an equal diameter and wall thickness, square tube will be stronger and flex less than round tube, is that right?

that chinese place I can't remember the name of (KLS maybe?) also have r33 cages on ebay for $450ish new. No idea of fit/quality but if it was more for bracing purposes, it would be a good price. even tho OP has said multiple time he doesn't want a frickin cage;) ...just putting it out there tho..

spec-R I believe, not S? That back-of-boot brace for the r33 gtr got a "noticeable difference" from the driver. I'm inclined to make something myself though which I don't think will cost that much and will be a bit more solid, ie, exhaust shop to bend a section of tube to run across back between mounting points, then welded to probably 3mm steel plates, bolted to chassis rails using existing 4xbolt holes as mentioned. I could see the benefit of the front 1/4 panel triangular braces and it seems they're pretty popular/widely used so will be looking into that further too. The B-pillar/floor brace - i get it in principle, as in using a 20?cm section of chassis rails either side joined to reduce twist, but given overall length of car/chassis rail, could see it making minimal difference.

just had another look at the products on the Ultra Racing site, and first thing tomorrow I am having my solicitors draft a letter to them requesting they change their name to Ultra-Anus, reflective of the usefulness of their parts. I would seriously look at the bolt-in cage idea for stiffening the chassis, a cusco cage, that allows use of front and rear seata, will only be about $850 delivered, which is only the price of a few of those braces, just in one lump sum.

lol that is awesome. Engine not turned on.

^^this guy. Field report is in order.

jeez mate asking a bit much there, who knows what will be designed in the future? but nah it's not in a location that anything I've seen bolts to. i might have been joking just a little there, yep as for the shop's cost, if you actually designed it, as in planned where you want it to run, cut the alum bar to the length/shape you want, and even do the mounting brackets, I'd be surprised if you pay more than a cpl hundred at most for the welding. A decent multipoint brace will be several hundred, if you can even find something suitable.

who says? no they're not. Superpro bushes range in price, average of say $120. ANTIsway bars about $220 each, same or less as some of the braces. so does mine. Jack up one wheel to a decent height and the door won't close properly cause of the flex. I have strut braces front and rear, swaybars, coilovers, all superpro bushes, castor-rod brace, and so on. Don't know that a couple of braces will fix this for you. to stop chassis flex maybe get a one-piece10cm square steel tube welded along the length of the car on either side, with some picees welded across between the bars. That should reduce it at least. Might add a hundred kg or so though. also, you can get half cages that still allow use of the back seats without any issues. Honestly - if you're like me, once you get an idea in your mind it really doesn't matter what other people put forward you'll just end up trying it yourself anyway. So if you're set on thinking the braces are what you need, then no worries. The cusco one is pretty cheap anyway, mine was $119, and easy enough to install. Front strut brace from justjap can be picked up cheap, also supereasy bolton, you could do it blindfolded, or drunk....I know i certainly was. Those mulitpoint braces, have only seen them for GTR's or other cars that aren't skylines. What you could do, is talk to a reputable suspension workshop about making you something effective? Get some aluminium bar, look under the car and see suitable mounting points, decide where you want to run it, then get them to weld it up....boooyah, you've innovated too. I had one of the 4-point front underbody Cusco braces on my GT4 Celica, huuuuge difference. Not seen anything like that for skyline though.

yeah but dude, that's my point - i have one of those cusco castor-rod bars on my car...makes a *minor* difference. Things like that aren't going to give u the structural rigidity you're craving for, like a lost infant calf in the woods craving the suckling teat of its mother. If you want to bolt something on to stiffen things up, maybe just look at one of the half-cages for the rear of the car...u can get nice Cusco ones delivered for a bit over $800 and they look sexy too, will probably get you more 'giney in the process.

Yeah not everyone has knowledge or tools or motivation to do themselves, but expect to be digitally penetrated to some degree if u don't. Advice above is best. Strut and chassis braces make a difference, but are far from the cheapest or best way to improve handling if the basics not already done.

"ported out to match the manifold" i disregard all other notions of T3 put to me

yeah porting out the watersgate might be needed, will see. To me more of a concern was the chunk that sticks out into the exhaust flow, from where the wastegate port is drilled into the housing. Bit of work with a carbide burr and the flow is much smoother. The entry was also a bit smaller than T3 size, so ported out to match the manifold rather than leave a lip at entry (looks more even in real-life lol, though looks a bit wavy in pic)

Hey Dale, yes went internal gate. Will only be around 1 bar max boost, will see how it goes. Should be off to dyno in next few weeks so sill see what happens there.