hardsteppa

instructions/tutorials on their site go into a bit of detail about this, making sure you start with steering wheel centred and both tierod ends having the same amount of thread showing, then making even adjustments to both sides, to get it as even as possible and not favoring one side.

looks like a nice piece of kit. More on the pricey side...trackace one has fricken' laser beams though

cool, thanks for the suggestion on the caster gtsboy, I was wondering about the effect of binding/tension on the rest of the components for this. I was thinking about using a plumb-bob down the centre of the wheel to measure before and after change (maybe even using a degree wheel on the string vs wheel centreline afterwards) to get an idea of the amount of degree change?

haha you don't mess about do you straight into the purchase! Yeah but fair enough, for that price big deal hey, I will do the same next payday I think.

true it's fairly basic, doing only toe, but then priced accordingly too. I have a magnetic spirit level with a 360 deg adjustable dial gauge that I was planning on using for adjusting camber, and dial indicator/bumpsteer gauge for the traction rod adjustment. Really hadn't come up with any ideas for the caster measuring as yet though, apart from pushing it as far as I can until there's no further clearance lol. None of it really needs to be *that* accurate, it's more just to give me a feel for changing what each aspect of alignment does and to get a better understanding of it overall, so that when I do take it in for the alignment I've got a better idea of what settings will suit my driving, but not putting up with shocking toe alignment in the interim. Although reading sydneykid's old posts, the bumpsteer/rear traction arm adjustment can be very time consuming so would like to get that as accurate as possible. The rear bumpsteer is also the biggest problem i can feel with the car at the moment, and the reason for me embarking on the whole adjustable arm/learning about alignment caper. Question on the rear camber though, from searching here it seems like skylines don't like alot of negative camber on the rear, is this more a straight line traction thing, or leads to less traction when corning too?

anyone had any experience with these http://www.trackace.co.uk/ laser-pointer home wheel alignment tool? Have alot of good reviews online and fairly cheap at $140aud. Not intending to be in place of a full 4-wheel alignment by a professional shop, but I have just bought Hardrace castor/camber/traction arms and I'd like to learn more about the change that each arm makes, and difference in feel it gives....don't want to go to a shop to get a wheel alignment constantly during my learning process though, so was looking at using one of these instead. Anyone with experience or thoughts on these? thanks

can you stop talking about stuff you don't have first-hand experience with please? I'm always open to people's ideas and opinions but your self-righteousness really gets old. FFS, the caliper fitted onto the disc, your post above has nothing to do with what I asked the guy above with his brake pad fitment. When I overlaid the 324mm disc with the 296mm disc, the change in profile pretty much perfectly matched the area that needed to be taken out of the caliper....all part of checking for myself what needed to be done and if it was a good idea to go ahead with or not.

Ok...before I did it, I was of the same opinion, no way in hell am I grinding my calipers. Automatic reaction that I think everyone has when they hear those words. While it is a pita to do it, having done it now I would find it extremely unlikely nissan designed the caliper to such fine tolerances that the minute amount that comes off is enough to make or break them. I could be wrong, sure, but it does seem unlikely. that's interesting, could you confirm how the pad sits on the disc, as in, any overhang? Whilst exchanging emails with gktech their position was cos of the diameter change from 296>324 disc, it wouldn't fit into the caliper and still have the pad fit completely on the disc, it would have overhang in the middle of the outer edge, hence the need to remove a little at the ends of the caliper and allow the pad to sit on the edge of the disc rather than hanging over it.

it is a small amount of material being removed in a non load bearing section; what is your reasoning for that?

hey Dan, you're right, it is a fair bit of stuffing around grinding/test fitting, grinding more, took me a few hours to get done too. When I had taken out a fair bit and it looked like fitting, i spraypainted over the grinded area and then ran it again, so could see where the disc was actually still rubbing, as otherwise it's very hard to see on what spot it's still hitting and otherwise will just end up grinding away at sections that don't need it. Even after fitting, under heavy braking the slight amount of flex would see the caliper push onto the disc again and give a grinding sound, so another slight trim was needed but no trouble since then. Sucks about hitting the bolt tube but shouldn't really matter from a function point of view i would think? I didn't hit mine but looking at the photo, would say it would only be hair-thickness of metal left before breaking through.

haha. I had a few emails back and forth with them about this.... To grind mine, i took the calipers off, did the main part pushing them up against a bench grinder to take out the bulk of it, then used a carbide burr to get the harder to reach bits, then a metal file to smooth it out. Not sure about dremel grinding wheels but one of these works a treat http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Chieftain-Carbide-Burr-Double-Cut-SL-2-/151175368194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2332c10e02 these rip the shit out of anything, don't need much pressure on the aluminum caliper, just skim across the surface to get nice n even. Why keep the dust shields btw? they just get in the way and trap heat IMO, but up to you of course..

Yeah thats not right mate, will email u some details tomorrow

Ok cool, in brisbane here. Justjap sell the hardrace stuff.

Whereabouts are you mate? U will need a press to get them out/in (i have one). Have to say if i was doing it again - and i am- i would - and will - buy the hardrace rubberbush adjustable ones (leaving me with a set of stock rods with superpro bushes fitted, for sale...just sayin' )

25% off anything and everything, this weekend. That's *this* weekend. Buy now, be happy

Superb saturday savings, 25% off everything this weekend

also have set of front King low springs for r33 gtst with 1xPotenza and 1xKYB shocks. Springs all good just some paint scrapes, shocks all good no leaks dents etc. $40 for springs, $30 for shocks, or both for $60

also have set of front King low springs for r33 gtst with 1xPotenza and 1xKYB shocks. Springs all good just some paint scrapes, shocks all good no leaks dents etc. $40 for springs, $30 for shocks, or both for $60

shed clearout of a few things...located in northside Brisbane, can post at buyer's cost. All parts for R33 gtst set of front lower control arms with Hardrace rubber bushes. Bushes have done exactly 3,398k's (as per my logbook photos) and are in as-new condition. Only reason for sale is I have done every other bush on car with Superpro, so decided to fit superpro lca bushes too (didn't notice any difference btween these and superpro). No ball joints but happy to buy new ball joints and press in for you if you pay the cost of them. After $120 for the set (think the hardrace bushes alone cost $109?) brand-new HEL/GK Tech brake lines. Rears only sorry, used the front ones when doing their brake upgrade. $35. set of front and rear stock springs. What can I say, they're stock springs, nothing wrong with them. Pictured in top left corner. $30 or alcohol trades accepted. Rear RS-R springs on tokico Potenza coilovers. Paint's a bit chipped/aged on the springs but otherwise no signs of any issues, shocks are fine, no leaks, dents, damage etc. $60 the set, or could split if needed.

will try again with couple of the pics GK Tech brake lines stock springs

shed clearout of a few things...located in northside Brisbane, can post at buyer's cost. All parts for R33 gtst set of front lower control arms with Hardrace rubber bushes. Bushes have done exactly 3,398k's (as per my logbook photos) and are in as-new condition. Only reason for sale is I have done every other bush on car with Superpro, so decided to fit superpro lca bushes too (didn't notice any difference btween these and superpro). No ball joints but happy to buy new ball joints and press in for you if you pay the cost of them. After $120 for the set (think the hardrace bushes alone cost $109?) brand-new HEL/GK Tech brake lines. Rears only sorry, used the front ones when doing their brake upgrade. $35. set of front and rear stock springs. What can I say, they're stock springs, nothing wrong with them. Pictured in top left corner. $30 or alcohol trades accepted. Rear RS-R springs on tokico Potenza coilovers. Paint's a bit chipped/aged on the springs but otherwise no signs of any issues, shocks are fine, no leaks, dents, damage etc. $60 the set, or could split if needed.

current affairs there chief...you might note that section has just been revised with that information.

^^though, just to reiterate, they're a high quality adapter and very good price, worthwhile upgrade.

nah I don't sorry mate...you should probably ask GK Tech, the company who makes them, how much needs to be ground off, and why they don't give any information, guidelines, photos, anything at all, on the "install" tab on their website, and why they tell you they're a straight bolt-on fitment...which they know is bullshit.

bracket is good quality, thick aluminium with steel thread inserts. For me, and has been confirmed by a few others, they weren't 'bolt-on', there's a reasonable amount of grinding and shaping the inside of the caliper to allow it to fit over the 324mm disc and still reach the mounting holes on the brackets. I was sceptical on doing this but if you have a look at a photo of the caliper pulled into 2 halves, you don't come anywhere near the fluid tube that runs through the middle, so not that much of a big deal, but a bit to be grinded out. Short hard line running off caliper also doesn't match to mounting bracket either of course with the caliper moved down/out. I wasn't keen on leaving the brittle hard line unsupported so got their brake lines as well that mount straight into the caliper. Only done on weekend so still in the bedding in stage but difference is immediately noticeable, as soon as you start to touch the brake pedal. Hope that helps.