hardsteppa

Big fan of perfectrun, tho their range seems to have dropped a bit

Cool, will give them a shot, yeah the brakewest ones in psrticular are decent chunky fittings and thick lines, really impressed with them, but are made to mount to stock hardlines not caliper so won't work with brake upgrade.

Just got a set of GK Tech (made by HEL Australia) brake lines for the R33 gtst, and got to say compared to the Nismo and BrakeWest brake lines I have used, they look flimsy as sh*t....might explain why they're so cheap. I know the HEL lines are pretty common, anyone have any issues using them, or any horror stories?

I too am looking for $1000..... but $1000s too cheap dude, they usually go for $3000 to $27000. Glad you posted in the right forum though.

I'd go somewhere in the middle of above opinions. Xforce=ok, nothing awesome but not rubbish either, defintely not rubbish.

What's the problem with the wolf that it keeps needing retune? Have the older 3d v4 on my GT Four and never had an issue with it. Been a great ecu.

Stz automotive in virginia saud they have done those, and apparently are pretty good. Not been to them yet but will be going there soon for my safc neo tuning.

Touch

happy

you can run a hiflow on the stock ecu. I'm doing it without any issues with a hypergear hiflow, brand new core in stock compressor/turbine housings. Hypergear hiflow is what, $960? trading in your old turbo. Proven, and bolt-on. I'm personally a fan of alot of things ebay, turbo is a bit hit and miss though as to what would be good I rekon.

semen

take off the afm and give it a spray with some urine....or afm cleaner ....maybe afm cleaner first. Fixed my idling issue.

Kinugawa actuator, greddy panel filter and fpr sold. apexi avcr still available, some dude on facebook jdm parts is selling just the screen and his solenoid not working for like $100..put em together and you got a working avcr plus some spare parts, jeeez what more you need

for 48 hours only , $10 off everything above and prices include postage anywhere in oz.

you're kind of killing your own arguement there though, if "The effect of opening the BOV is felt everywhere in the inlet tract within a couple of milliseconds of it cracking open." then the assertion "The BOV should be physically located close to the throttle body" - a cpl of milliseconds, it wouldn't matter where you put it, and so you could mount it whereever was most convenient and any performance advantage would be negligible if we're talking a couple of milliseconds.

do you really need a car? can't you catch the bus?

"You'll end up paying more in time, materials and labour to get custom adapters made, and you might still have difficulty with the fit. UAS are $350, GKTech can't be that far away, chances are getting your own made up will take a couple of weeks anyway." fair call indeed, have enough projects to keep me going for a while yet, and looking forward to the GKtech adapters having bought a few of their other products, so thinking I might just hold off for a while anyway. however...?? ahh man I expected more from you GTSboy, like some input of real-world experiences or in-depth knowledge, not just "it's just not kosher" and "it's poor form"....you've let me down!! What about " the increased leverage from the larger diameter disc will exert far great force on the mounting bolts and using spacers instead of a solid fixing point will have more flex which could break mounting bolts or throw caliper out of alignment".....or, "the hub and disc spin at high speeds, if the calipers are not aligned correctly on the adapter this may lead to uneven wear and warpage" I've had a 10mm plate steel bracket/aluminium spacer brake kit on my Celica for over 10 years with out any issues, it's been checked over by a top race workshop in Melb and ok'ed and then checked by an engineer and mod-plate cert'ed in Brissy, so I know this style is fine, although a CNC machined piece is preferable, same as a high quality billet caliper is preferable over 2 pieces bolted together (as in, like the stock R33 caliper).

fitted today. Great kit for $299, no fitment issues. Some pics for those considering comparison to stock clean the hub ready for new disc check hub runout - all good fit caliper adapters fit disc, check runout - all good put caliper back on, nice fit, all done (don't forget to put your wheel back on)

On mine i had to wire and fit an air temp sensor, was for a different car though. Used the Delco sensor, can email u the values to calibrate if u end up using it.

pm'ed

Nah son, theyre like several hundreds of dollars's. Rather put in a bit of time and effort and make my own, for that kind of money

I know right/ trying to figure out if it just sounds like a shit idea, or actually is. If they're good enough to use as shims though( and they are, I've had a top-notch company in melb do this when fitting big-brake kit to my other car) then is it an issue to use them en-masse. My concern with using trying to machine something to fit, is getting it exactly even, which will require the work of a company with specialist equipment, whereas the washers will be an even surface. Will probably use another piece of the 10mm plate and then shim with washers as needed, but once again, fire away with feedback or suggestions.

got to say, I look forward to your posts GTSBoy, you're certainly a learned fellow. Just posted something in the braking section I'd like your thoughts and input on, if you care to do so. Re above "But if you watched a boost gauge connected to the inlet tract (rather than the plenum) during such an event and you will see the pressure fall a long way below the boost pressure it was running at. That only occurs because the air goes out through the hole." agreed, this being the point of a BOV to release pressure. "The air has to come from everywhere and will flow from the furthest points towards the hole." if you looked at a smoke test though, wouldn't you see it start to flow through from the area immediately located from the source of the escape route (BOV)? So if you put it as close to the compressor as possible (with the BOV intended to prevent reversion and damage to the compressor) it would reduce pressure in this area first thus preventing reversion and damage to turbo. I don't claim to have done the research and testing to make this theory foolproof by any means; as we all know from doing basic modifications from day one of owning a turbo car, OEM specs can be improved upon and you got to wonder how much convenience and budgets play a part in R&D and the mass-marketed final product.

so while I love the look of the GKTech adaptors, there's me not exactly being known for my patience, so have decided to make my own adapters to run the 324mm GTR discs. What could possibly go wrong, I know..... anyway, have sourced some 10mm plate steel, got carbide burrs, grinders, tap/die sets etc and a plan in mind. Be curious to hear from anyone else that's made their own or been involved with it, and any suggestions inputs etc. I think the hardest part is going to be getting the spacers right and making sure they're the right height and machined dead-flat. Thinking of using washers stacked to the right height, once they're under tension between caliper and bracket there shouldn't be any flex, but open to feedback and ideas......?

"air that was previously flowing towards the TB does in fact have to turn around and flow the other way in order to decrease the pressure in the tract." I put it forward, there's no need for the air to reverse and flow the other way. Consider this - throttle shuts, airflow into engine stops as throttle plate has now blocked path. Compressor still spinning and pumping air into piping which is now not flowing. BOV located straight after compressor on intercooler piping lets this air out rather than pressure building and pushing against compressor. So the airflow would be effectively stopped, pressure remains the same, and any incoming air would continue to flow the same way, just be diverted straight out the BOV rather than continuing through towards the engine. Get back on throttle and more boost pressure is already there as it hadn't been depressurised in front of throttle plate. To be honest i think the difference between putting it just before throttle, or just after compressor, would be sweet F.A, in most cases, but it makes sense to me to put it in front of compressor. For another reason, when no longer being driven by the turbine (under closed throttle) the compressor will slow down alot more trying to drive air through the intercooler rather than allowing it to vent out straight away before passing through the I/C. Obviously this is based on zero hours of research and development by me and I'm sure auto manufacturers might have given it at least a few hours testing.....