hardsteppa

ahh ok, no worries.

So was rigging up a vacuum line to do the ol' skool steam cleaning of the engine....pulled off the boost controller hose that's connected to the bung on the std intercooler return pipe (connects to crossover pipe) and instead of it pulling air in at idle, it's pushing air out? So it's under pressure instead of under vacuum? How can that possibly be, shouldn't intake be under vacuum at idle?

cam gear still available. seriously, they're awesome, and that's cheap. not sold yet, ??WTF LOL OMG DRABC

Hose/joiners sold. Y'all.

I guess it keeps going forward ever so slightly...feels like it doesn't move though, like it just rolls forward on momentum until other wheel connects with the ground again.

sorry mods pls move, think i might have posted it in wrong subforum...thanks

hey all pls help me understand something, I have a s2 R33 gtst, thought they all came with lsd as standard. Since fitting bc coilovers i have noticed coming out of steep driveways etc where one rear wheel is off ground temporarily, the free wheel spins like mad and the one on the ground still doesn't move when giving it some throttle. I thought lsd was to transfer traction to wheel with most grip (eg one on ground still) or am I way off? Did search but didn't find any answer thanks

BOV SOLD.

pm'ed u Simon.

coilpacks sold.

also have an R34 stock side mount intercooler with shroud. No damage, general minor scuffs from being on a car for last 10 years. Happy to post pics if needed. $80 for this + post.

$20 for radiator hose. Genuine SFS brand, not no-name brand chinese hose.

that's what I was getting at, offering to help within reason lol

no worries, will pm them when i get home tonite

sure, would do them for $50 posted. Postage would be more than $10, but I will pay whatever the difference is.

yeah me lol. What is it you need done?

All items located in Cairns 4870, and are plus postage - express, registered, standard, whatever you want, to anywhere needed. First up - brand new adjustable cam gear to suit RB engines. Steel outer ring for durability, aluminium inner. Came as a set of 2, I only used one on exhaust side. Has hi tensile bolts and washers already fitted, so good to go. Have used mine for about 5 months now and works a treat, set to the recommended 2 deg retard and good gain everywhere, quicker spool. $45 for this. Next, brand new genuine SFS silicone top radiator hose. This was an extra they had put in by mistake when I bought my set, which is why there's no bottom hose as well. After $25 for it. 70mm ID SFS silicon joiner, 70mm aluminium joiner, 76mm aluminium joiner, 2 1/2>3 inch reducer (or increaser, whichever way u look at it). All brand new, although the reducer has been stored in the garage for quite a while through a few moves so is slightly scuffed. $5 each or $15 the lot. as-new Turbosmart Kompact BOV, bolt on for Skylines. Used for less than a week (thought my stock one was leaking but turns out they're designed to lol). Prefer to keep a stock looking engine bay so have put old one back on. Paid $190 for it, with receipt available for warranty, original box and Turbosmart sticker . After $140. stock series 2 R33 coilpacks. 107,000k's on them, all working fine at time of removal, no misfires or issues. Changed for splitfires when I did recent major service. $40 the lot. Check profile page for feedback from previous buyers, I value my reputation as a seller - feel free to PM me with any questions or offers on items listed

translation is (refer to my numbers on safc2 sheet) 1) It's something about additional rate to the normal air/fuel ratio upon use of Power intake. 2) The example of setting when in use of Normal air cleaner 3) The example of setting when in use Power intake 4) Additional rate to the normal air/fuel ratio upon use of Apex Power intake. When use "Apex Power intake," the shape of "air cleaner" changes, so there will be a gap of air/fuel ratio from the pure condition (?) This setting rate is for giving correction to pure air/fuel ratio in order to make best of the performance of the Apex Power intake. 5) The example of setting when in use of Normal cleaner. This is the example of the controlled rate, the case of being more powerful than when pure condition by using Normal air cleaner. 6) The example of setting when in use Apex Power intake. This is the example of the controlled rate, the case of being more powerful than when pure condition by using Apex Power intake. 7) Graphs of air/fuel ratio in each conditions of settings. safc2 graph marked.pdf

do you have the page from the safc2 manual showing the suggested settings? It has a suggested tune on it too but I wouldn't advise using it. I think there is still a copy or link to it that I posted in the "japan" section here while I was trying to get it translated ( i now have it translated lol, from a japanese girl at work)

damn straight. My safc2 cost me $200. I get sick of reading "safc is crap, throw it away". Of course they will not work anywhere near as well as a full tuneable ecu but not everyone needs or wants that. They are a signal bender as ppl keep saying and if all you want to do is bend the signal a little to optimize bolt-ons or stock tune then that is what they are made for. And as for the OP saying he wants to get a wideband and have a go at the tuning himself, I think that is a great idea - safc2 is a simple unit so would be a great base to try tuning, as long as keeping in mind the whole change of ign timing thing. I'd be very interested to hear how you go with it mate, keen to try it myself, just trying to justify wideband/datalogger cost.

damn u got better eyesight than me homie, couldn't imagine being able to see tiny air bubbles coming out from that far away

yeah but you would still need to be at the caliper watching it, not in the car pushing pedal. Might just wait and get a helper

I just fitted BR series to an R33gtst last week, went for the 8/6 spring rate on the advice of Justjap (was going to go 6/4). Roads are pretty bumpy up here and 8/6 is fine, not radically different to stock. 6/4 would have been too soft IMO. Have dampers set 10 clicks from soft, so 1/3 of full firmness. Also have whiteline swaybars front and rear, might just be me but I still find it has a bit of body roll - eg my ST185 GT4 has similar setup, Tein superstreets and whiteline swaybars, and that has wayyy less body roll, very flat thru corners, so was a little disappointed with the R33 in that regard. But for $1300 delivered the bc's seem great value, ride is probably perfect for street, as in firm but not too harsh. Would need firmer for track, I would imagine..

oh and installing new nismo braided lines so there will be ALOT of air to get rid of lol.

thanks for that. My main concern was how would you know when all air is out if you can't see it? Would prefer the 2 person method so I can see what's coming out but my better half is away at moment.