hardsteppa

anyone know? need to know if they're the right thing to order, thanks

hey just wondering if these http://www.jdmobsess...ost-nissan-p-35 do the same thing as Whiteline pineapples? they seem to be alot cheaper, for more in the kit, with the Whiteline kit selling for over $100 from what I've seen.

actually, not really fussed about height adjustment, so i'm not shopping for springs. It's just that i have super streets in my other car, and like them, so would consider them for this car...wouldn't really be adjusting them at all after the initial fitting. Was trying to find a lower cost option though, like the kyb's. If i pay for bilsteins and springs, i might as well just buy a set of teins.

koni's are shit, yellows at least, that I have tried. I don't rate them at all. Bilsteins I have read are the bizz, but if I'm going to spend any more I would just get a set of Tein coilovers. Tein ss get a great rap for the performance edge...which i feel they deserve. However, my original post refers to the *quality* of the shocks, not the performance. I'm not confused about which one will give me better performance, for I know it be true that Teins will have the sportier edge. My r33 still has the original shocks after 103,000k's, no leaks, no knocks, which I am pretty sure are KYB's. That says a pretty solid build quality to me. As much as I like Teins, I have my doubts they will last that long..

what's the dimensions of this? kind of looks same size as an r34 intercooler

ok well I'll answer my own questions lol - best price I found for a set of the KYB's was $800, from GSA Wholesale in Brissy. Would mean paying the freight cost thought, but would still be about $100 cheaper. Guy there was very helpful too - the quality between the 2 is comparable, with KYB probably being higher/longer lasting ( this from talking to bloke at suspension place) - no idea as yet. Opinions on the board here seem to range from awesome to not a great deal of difference noted. Since it would be around the 200 mark to buy both kits, I might leave it and put the funds into the struts at this stage..

I would be very interested in reading your review once done; I've had my eye on the silicon intakes for a while. What is the reason for the metal rings, is it a strength thing? In my experience silicone pipes hold their shape very well, I would imagine much better than the flexible stock rubber pipe...?

Hey gangstas Looking to replace the shocks in my s2 R33 gtst, tossing up between Tein super streets and KYB Excel-G struts. Have super streets in my ST185 GT4 and found them an awesome unit for the price. Can get a set from perfectrun.com for $1700-ish delivered - the best price I have found for a set of the KYB's is around $1000, plus the cost of new bump stops, boots, set of spring compressors, so prob about $1100 all up. Not looking to do anything amazing with the car, just a nice streetable ride, so I'm thinking I would just be paying more for the Teins to get the adjustability of the height/damper settings, which I don't really need. The car is stock so far apart from 17x8 drifteks, front strut brace and factory rear strut brace, 20mm whiteline fixed swaybar on the rear, and 24mm whiteline adjustable swaybar on the front. So my questions - is around $1000 for a set of the KYB's a fair price, or can they be found cheaper? (have got similar prices from 2 places so far) and if so, who to call? - is the quality of the shocks comparable between the KYB's and the Tein super streets? - is it worthwhile fitting a subframe lock kit (pineapples), and castor rod bushes? Worthwhile meaning, is it something you would fit and go, goddamn, glad I spent the money and did that, or more like, hmmmmm, little bit better but not heaps. The superpro subframe kit looks to be much better value with 8 bushes for $80-ish as opposed to 6 in the whiteline kit for $100-plus, any real other difference between the 2 in terms of quality and performance? Any thoughts and opinions on the above would be appreciated

I've been pretty happy so far with my Toyo Proxes 4 that I've had on my 33 gtst for the last couple of months. 235/45/17 cost me $199 a tyre. However I have the Toyo Proxes T1R on my ST185 GT4 that are a far superior tyre for about 30 more a tyre, but not sure if they make them any more? (was told they don't)

yeah that doesn't sound like what I was looking for. Thanks for your thoughts/experience there. Was hoping someone might have tried putting in an r34 one or something, if they look any better, like the stagea ones, but not sure if they'll fit anyway.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to use to replace the standard t-bar auto shifter handle/knob on a series 2 r33? Looking for something a bit more sporty looking to mildly impress my occasional passengers. Any ideas on what will be a straight swapover/bolt-in? thanks

Looking for a Whiteline rear sway bar for the R33, not the x/heavy duty, but the 22mm thick bar, adjustable or non, not fussed...

looking for an R32 stock 10psi actuator in good working order, if anyone has one and is willing to post, feel free to pm me...thanks!

have pm'ed u about parts for sale

after just the turbo actuator if the turbo doesn't sell.....

pm'ed

it was done by autoterminal.com. spoke to the guy who is their Qld contact, he reckons they don't fit them anymore cause you can't buy leaded petrol anyway, and wouldn't fit one for me. From what i know though, they also stop the fuel nozzle from constantly clicking off when filling the tank cause they have the bypass vent built into them. So, bit peeved at their lack of commitment to a quality car lol, but what can you do....

oh ok, I didn't know about the pulling the TPS off part. Yeah my light is just a supercheap job too, hoping it will work on the looped wire but will see. Do you know which looped wire to use? as mentioned, there are 2 on mine. I'll try both I guess, but just trying to narrow it down

just after a point in the right direction, have searched but not found any 100% answer on this - I wanted to check the ignition timing on my series 2 R33, I have a pretty basic powered timing light. I've read that you can put the inductive clamp on the timing light onto a looped wire that runs off the coil loom near the firewall, with there being no ignition leads on the motor to run it off. There are two looped wires though on mine, one all white, the other black with a white stripe - anyone know which one to use, or have any other handy info on checking/setting the timing? pointers would be appreciated

I picked up a 96 s2R33 recently, and have found there's no Australian-spec fuel filler insert in the neck. So, whenever I'm going to put some fuel in, the fuel nozzle keeps clicking off, which is pretty un-handy. They hsould have an insert fitted as part of compliance yeah? or is it pretty normal for them not to have one, and it's just something you work around?

Unfortunately, I need to put my 1990 ST185 up for sale, due to a lack of storage space. Mechanically, it's A1. Runs like a dream, and recent compression test gave cold numbers of 155, 153, 156, 155. I've done most of the work on it personally and looked after it with no expense spared, using only quality parts and changing oil and filter at least every 4000k's, etc. I'll start with the good stuff, and details of the car and what's been done to it. All parts/repairs are less than 5 years old if not already stated. Car is located in Brisbane. the car- 1990 ST185 JDM import, black with grey interior. First owner in Australia and re-registered in Qld when i moved up here. the enginebay - completely rebuilt engine just on 50,000 k's ago. 0.5mm overbore, CP 8.5-1 forged pistons, blueprinted/balanced, Clevelite race bearings, ARP rob bolts and head studs, HKS 264 intake and exhaust cams, ATS adjustable timing gears, Engle valve springs, TVIS deleted and plate port-matched, genuine Toyota full gasket kit + valve stem seals, new Toyota water pump and harmonic balancer, timing belt, rebuilt oil pump. ATS TD06 turbo kit with adaptor to stock turbo manifold and external wastegate port to 38mm Tial wastegate re-routed to exhaust. 3 inch exhaust with magnaflow METAL not ceramic hiflow cat less than 12 months old. Samco Silicon vacuum hose throughout engine bay. PWR aluminium radiator with 2 custom install cooling fans. 600x300x76 front mount intercooler with Samco silicon connectors on 2 1/2 inch stainless steel piping throughout. HKS SSQV blowoff valve re-routed to intake. Custom straight stainless steel pipe with K&N pod filter in custom s/steel heat shield box. Rebuilt starter motor, alternator, power steering pump, master and slave clutch cylinders, brake master cylinder all rebuilt in last 5 years or less. Have replaced distributor rotor, cap, leads, with genuine Toyota parts. Have NGK Iriway racing plugs that have done less than 1000'ks, currently running NGK coppers, would recommend the Iriways be used if racing/driving hard, coppers from everyday driving. New battery less than 12 months ago. drivetrain - OS Giken RCD2 twin plate clutch (AWESOME, very streetable and zero slipping), ST205 gearbox, front driveshafts less than 12 months old, engine mounts and rear diff mount less than 5 years old. Castrol Syntrax full synthetic 75-90 gearbox oil used. fuel system - Supra TT fuel pump, Sard 800cc injectors, ATS bored-out stock rail, Toyota in-tank and in-line fuel filters less than 4 years old. Injectors are only at 65% duty cycle at full throttle so no issues about needing to raise fuel pressure or running lean/maxing out the system. Everything fits using stock fittings so looks stock, and no worries about fire bursting out from some poor-sealing fitting. brakes - Wilwood 335mm discs on front with Wilwood 4 piston Dynalite calipers and braided brake lines, and 335mm discs with 4 piston Superlite calipers and braided brake lines on rear. TONS of pad and disc life on all four corners. wheels/suspension - HR Racing Gear 17x7 tiger gold 5 spoke alloys about 4 years old (went on same time as brakes, to clear the calipers) and Toyo Proxes T1R 225/45/17 tyres less than 12 months old. TONS of tread left. Tein super street coilovers, Superpro bushes throughout, Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar, both front ball joints replaced in last 5 years, left side just 4 weeks ago. interior - Wolf 3d V4 plugin ecu with hand controller unit, Apexi AVCR boost controller, HKS type-1 turbo timer/function meter with plug-in wiring harness, Autometer Pro-Comp liquid filled 20psi boost gauge, Momo black/grey steering wheel, Sparco racing pedals. Pirahna car alarm with 2 remotes. The engine machining was done by Crankshaft Rebuilders in Melbourne, have a friend who works there, and assisted me to slowly and carefully build the engine. The tuning was done by Melbourne Performance Centre, and was tuned to 242kw at all four wheels on 23psi on a safe tune suitable for daily driving (requires premium unleaded be used). I've only used Motul engine oil since the rebuild and it's always been the daily driver until recently where it's been sitting fairly idle, so enjoyed but never thrashed. All fluids have been changed and maintained per maintenance schedules. the bad bits - the paintwork is in good shape, not outstanding, but with a polish it looks pretty good. No patches missing or anything. There's a dent about 10cmX10cm in both the rear quarter panels as a result of my sometimes poor reversing skills. Inside the interior is just ordinary, not bad but just fairly ok. No holes in seats or bits missing, but the front floor carpets have some wear and some holes around the pedals on the drivers side. The stereo is pretty rubbish, just the standard one from Japan that doesn't pick up Aus stations. Never been too concerned about stereos so I've never changed it. There's also no aircon, all the piping and condensor etc has been removed to fit in the front mount cooler without chopping up the bumper bar. The car currently has just over 150,000k's on the clock, had 80,000 when i bought it and I've had it for about 7 years now. I've always garaged it and looked after it, and it's definitely a reluctant sale as I've put alot of $$$ and time and effort into it, but unfortunately I've got no room for it anymore. I'm after $10,000 for it. If there's anything I haven't covered, feel free to ask. Car is located in inner city northside Brisbane, registered until mide next year and will be supplied with RWC.

selling the stock wheels that came on the car, series 2 R33. Rims are in VGC, no marks or damage. Tyres are Federal somethings, will have a look tomorrow and post model/photos, but they have TONS of tread, i would say about 90%. Full set of four, all in similar cond. Located in Wilston area, just north of CBD Brisbane. Looking for $200 the lot ONO

selling the stock wheels that came on the car, series 2 R33. Rims are in VGC, no marks or damage. Tyres are Federal somethings, will have a look tomorrow and post model/photos, but they have TONS of tread, i would say about 90%. Full set of four, all in similar cond. Located in Wilston area, just north of CBD Brisbane. Looking for $200 the lot ONO.

looking for an R34 side mount intercooler, preferably located in brisbane area. Let me know if you have one to sell...

will give you $100 plus postage cost for the smic if you want a quick sale?