buzz350

Getting rid of some Ganador mirrors to suit S15 silvia 250 ono. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/flagstaff-hill/auto-body-parts/s15-silvia-ganador-style-mirrors-/1008400069 ^^ linky Might do a better deal for sau member pickup only. need gone latest of wednesday night

White r33 series 2, with gtr bumper and n1 vents, spotted approx 540 on outlook drive, wasnt impressed with the overtaking move doing way more then the speed limit only to get to the fuel station............ If I see you behaving in a reckless manor of driving again I will report your plates to the cops.

replace the stalk, had mine do that, in the end it shorted out on both sides a lot of blue electrical smoke and well yeah ran late for tafe that day. once the stalk was replaced had no troubles since.

also looking for a radiator for my 33, saw the cheap chineese one (ASI) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/52mm-Alloy-aluminum-radiator-skyline-R33-RB25DET-GTS-T-/300715105356?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4604045c4c wondering if its worth it, if people got good bang for their buck etc?

it shouldnt be a problem, if you clamp the hoses. just go to your mechanic and ask him if it needs a topup or not (should still be fine as ive done a few radiators with auto trans lines added to them)

1, have new radiator handy 2, buy tectaloy xtra cool gold (green colour and concentrate - mix with rain water or distilled) found at sprints or supercheap - this is what I personally use and works a treat other people use different brands etc. 3, make sure you have a drip tray to catch coolant 4, have car on jack stands for easier access or ramps 5, take off radiator cap 6, get underneath car, undo bottom radiator hose, let drain, also make sure your not in its firing line 7, if theres auto trans lines to radiator, clamp them with brake hose clamps 8, remove hoses, minimal auto trans fluid should leak away 9, undo all other hose lines etc 10, remove top brackets + any electrical (if there is) 11, remove radiator - double check to ensure radiator is exact match. then do the reverse. hope this helps. ps should also be guidelines on back of coolant bottle for mixing ratios. *note* tho that you may need to top up automatic trans oil level if there are automatic trans lines connected to radiator.

so in short, ditch the loom for whatever engine im using and use existing loom and it will be plug and play really? thanks for that info, major help! dont think ill be able to afford a neo engine as their in low to mid 2thousand yet a series 2 ive been quoted for is 1700 from flywheel forward so i might go for the "cheaper and easier" option. but again thanks for clearing that up, will make everything a lot less stressful! so much knowledge base on here i feel like a massive noobie

the neo CAS?? mind edcuating me there? could i "theretically" use the s1 rail on the neo engine? and i assume a series 1 and 2 are exactly the same besides some loom issues (ie coilpacks etc)?

have a spare car and garage but no time, as being a 3rd year apprentice panel repairer i dont get much time on the weekends as im normally at work practicing. would like to get a neo engine but in that i would need to change wiring loom and etc to make fit? and dont exactly want to go down the path of getting new coilpacks again as my original splitfires cost me an arm and a leg. ive heard its possible to change over with some mods to the loom but is it worth it when i can get a series 2 engine and just swap ignition system over (from what ive been told) an rb 25/30 was an idea but a money pit it would be. i would like to have nice power gains but someone such as myself whos short on cash and doesnt want to spend the cost of my vehicle again on engine mods im trying to get out of this with the most amount of ease and as cheaply as possible while being as reliable as it can be. i guess when i get my old motor out, i can have a look at the thing, and strip it down and see how the thing works, could always be a good project for having a spare motor in hand incase i blow up my replacement??? again thanks rolls for the comments, making my life a lot easier (since im not exactly mechanically minded persay)

have gone thru wreckers and a few privates, had one lined up (full setup ready to go) for 1750 but has bailed on me. so if anyone can recommend me someone who has an rb25det they dont need, come at me! would go "bare block/long motor" but swaping everything over is a bit of a hassle exp with paying labour at 50+ per hour. thanks tho rolls for the information, big help. so many options but so little money to tinker with

after an rb25det engine, r33 or r34 engine doesnt not bother me. linky >>> http://www.gumtree.c...kms-/1007086042 looking to spend a maximum of 2000 as i want to get the car back on the road with low kms on the engine and something to cruise around in again. dont want to spent 6k or more on an engine when my car is only worth that when i bought it type of scenario. if you know of anyone or have one yourself you would like to sell as a whole running package, text me on 0422360999 cheers aaron.

r33 strut brace, front, blue in colour not needed - 50 bucks ono r33 interior, rear seats door cards etc - offers as i dont need it r33 rear tail lights not needed as ive moved onto led rear lights - 100 bucks ono unsure of price need money to afford new motor

that actually seems quite tempting. ive also managed to get a quote from an engine importer in adelaide with a engine package of approx 2grand. for thoes who have done a top end rebuild what have you done and approximation of prices would be great. as if i could get a rough estimate of what work youve done for $$$ will give me an idea of what i can and cant afford in my budget of about 2-3grand. will a rebuilt top end have problems with the bottom end and make the bottom end give in soon after? thanks for all the posts sofar they have been quite helpful.

sadly i dont have much money to play with, would be lovely to spend 10+ grand on it but im stuck on a budget of about 2-3 thousand. have been inquiring around adelaide for engines with no luck yet about. will keep this thread updated as soon as i know more about pricings of 2nd hand engines. thanks all for your posts and experiences. and hope to get this sorted sooner rather than later.

also after a r33 series 1 rb25det engine, mines gone kaput after 230XXX kms inbox me with what youve got! or text me for a faster response on 0422360999