RS4-S

actually no its not correct as R34GTT standard 17 rims are a 17x 7.5" which is the narrowest rim fitment for a 235/45 tyre NOT a 7 inch wide but thanks for your input

^^relevance? my old rims were 20x12 and i had a 195/40 but seriously my cousin has 165/50s on his 15x12s. doesnt exactly answer his question does it?

same problem but they dont blink at all? so it a completely different problem? if your hazards work i would have someone check your indicator stalk and all connections to it

@kidafa, you put R34GTT calipers on your series 1? dont the series 1 front hubs have a 12mm hole (aka r32/33) and series 2 have a 14mm hole(aka R34)? did you modify the hub or am i completely wrong? EDIT: just re-read your post. i would prefer to buy the right parts if they are available before drilling out my hubs

+1 Ray, 235 on a 7" wide is a no go my placard (c34 series 2) says 215/50R17 (OD 646mm). if i had a 215/45R17 (625mm) fitted to mine it would be a massive drop in tyre size and 21mm drop in OD (in canberra max allowable drop is 26 then the tyre is illegal on the car). also the speedo would be out a mile IMO i would put a 215/50R17 on the 7 inch wide because the 215/45R17 would look way too small in the wheel arch. also the 215/50R17 and the 235/45R17 are near identical in OD only difference being the rim widths you can fit them too.

cheers mate i was looking at the JJR bellmouths but did u get one to suit R33 or R34 or are they the same cos i want it to bolt to the standard cat without shortening or lengthing the end of it.

can anyone clarify this or what?

dude i asked the very same question about 7 threads down from this and no one responded, i might bump it back up as it was an existing thread

series one c34 RS4 stagea - R32GTR/R33GTST(i assume R33GTR too) calipers and rotors will bolt up series two c34 RS4 stagea - R34GTT/R34GTR calipers and rotors will bolt up the things you need to look out for are - wheel to caliper clearance and possible modification rear rotor backing plate

comic

^^^ LOL how about putting some blood sweet and tears (and money) into your car and make it something better than it is. you cant buy a rice car and jump in to it and expect it to perform like a pro drift team car. people spend hours and hours maintaining and building cars up to do what they do. spend your tyre money on upgrades and track time. not interested? then buy a boost tee or pull off the line to the wastegate actuator and enjoy the next week.

sweet as R34 (GTT?) white with a full (veilside?) body kit, monster FMIC and clear taillights turning into autobarn/supercheap in belco today about 2pm.

bounce though the roof? how low are these springs? and are you sure its not on the bumpstops? ive been in some seriously low cars (cant have a fuel tank of petrol in my vw cos it touches the ground) and the only one i get bounced outta my seat for is my mates liberty thats bumpstop'd HARD in the rear. i believe theres a pic Sydney Kid put up about modifying his bumpstop the lower he set the car. Modification of the bumpstop is illegal just incase anyone is wondering not that most people care though.

FRIDGE

FYSHWICK

shoestring alright, spend ya rego money on tyres and just go do skids without rego .

seriously, skids are cool sometimes if its a GTR doing a massive all wheel donut or an 26/30 powered S15 doing massive power skids but going out every wednesday and forcing a heavy UNDER powered car (daily driver or mums car) to pop 1 tyre from your peg leg diff is kinda shit. might as well change it to a monthly event and maybe organise some private property.

digging up an old post here. so if i was was buy a dump and front pipe (or dump/front combo pipe) i would have to get one to suit R33? if so will it bolt up to the standard cat in standard location? (if no, then given the length different would a R34GTT front pipe be the go?) anyone with an RS4S got an issue with clearance with any of these pipes? cheers

saw 2x R33's at supercheap tuggers at lunch time. one was black with gold speedy envy's and a big gold rushhour sticker the other was a yellow acid metallic colour sitting low with 19-20" black and machined rims (maybe zenetti)

dont worry, took hours of searching though google and FINALLY found some detailed pics. very similar lay out for braided line kits to R33gtst but R34GTT comes with a male fitting at the caliper end. Solved

have R34GTT front and rear calipers and rotors to fit to my s2 C34 stagea. would like to see how the lines are routed and mounted on an R34GTT if anyone has pics (braided or standard or both)? otherwise il either have to get full custom lines, R33 GTR solid lines off the front calipers or get some hard lines made up (i DO NOT want to use my standard lines). Cheers

wrong section really but i doubt it. also the brakes between series 1 and series 2 stageas are completely different too

SOLD!

+1 @SHELL if its only guna cost ya $200 then id do it now and get it changed back after the rego side of things is sorted. -exhaust needs to be <90dB @3,200-3,600rpm (depending on date of build) - no bashed out cats or de-cat pipes (big fines) -pod needs to be secured and have some kind of heat shielding -bov needs to be 100% plumb back and not adjustable -intercooler needs to be securely mounted and centre section of bumper bar cant be completely cut away -cant have a boost controller or bigger turbo -coilovers are legal if they are set to correct ground clearance and eyebrow heights (usually marked so they can see if they have been messed with in case of a defect etc) -tyres need to be load rated -wheel spacers are illegal (any kind unless its an OEM fitted track kit) -cant have external fuel pumps and big surge tanks in your boot unless its engineered -no drift style handbrake buttons (no spring etc) -unsure about anti-hicas bars -no locked diffs -if you have braided brake lines they must be DOT and ADR approved hope that covers enough for ya

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