Got a Pulsar

No worries. Sometimes I like to help the humans.

Just checked my receipt, cost $100 labor to fit Radiator, new hoses, new thermo, flush system, check for electrolysis and road test, so It shouldn't be too much. I found these pdf files which might help you D.I.Y. electrolysis.pdf Cooling%20System%20and%20Electrolysis.pdf

Even without the seal, it will still cover the coils better than no cover at all. I don't see it being an issue. Just like without it, don't get the coils wet, all good.

I think stockies are brass so they are still a different metal to the rest within the cooling system. It would be worth checking for stray current in the coolant to hopefully stop future problems and check earthing in the engine bay to try to eliminate it if it is there. I got Gibbs Auto Electrical Services in Belconnen to install my Rad and they did check for stray current etc... All was good. Good luck with the fixup though. I hate to hear of broken SKYLINES.

That is some nasty corrosion you got there fella. When my Rad was leaking and I ended up replacing it with an Aluminium one, I did a heap of searching on here to find out what I could. Being the eternal Noob that I am, I am thinking perhaps it has been caused by: a) not enough (if any) anti-freeze / anti-boil in the cooling system. There is anti-corrosive additives in it to stop rust etc. b) Old coolant loses its ability to work properly and therefore can lead to corrosion of the system. c) Using tap water in the system instead of distilled water. The impurities in the water cause corrosion. d) air bubbles in the system. e) stray electrical current in the coolant (caused by bad earthing) can cause electrolysis which will eat away at metals and make them corrode away, especially when there is different metals involved. Brass or aluminium radiator with alloy head, cast iron block and perhaps whatever metal that pipe was made of. As stated, I am the eternal Noob and some of this info may be a little blurrrred (correct me if I'm wrong), but I reckon there is a good chance that some or all of these things may have killed your pipe...

Gnomes

Knickers

Does anyone know anything about Japspec Garage in Mitchell?

Get your hands on the VIN and get someone to run it through the Nissan Fast software. Post it in this thread >>> Vins You Want FASTED <<<

Nah. Just came to me. Has a nice ring to it yeah? My mind... tis a many mixed up place indeed.

Aspirated Carbon Terrorists

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/35129-im-buying-a-skyline-what-should-i-look-for/

Between turbs and strut tower. Easy to see if your head is the size of a tennis ball. Look closely and you will see it.

Scroll up ^^^ to post #608 the first pic shows an actuator. (the brassy coloured thingo with the hose going to it) Looks to be an R33 one. R32 the hose comes straight out the side. (down I think)

Yep. 1) Get a boost gauge ASAP. 2) If you disconnected the bottom hose and didn't plug it, then you probably had infinite boost (til stuff go boom) cause the actuator would have no pressue to it and wastegate wouldn't have opened. 3) You could have a 32 actuator. (pics?)

I used this one circled in RED. Poke a hole from engine bay side with a coat hanger etc and feed the wire through. Comes out up under the glovebox and is a PITA to grab it but it is doable. Good luck.

Mine is also like this, and I think there is 1 or 2 others elsewhere. 1 next to the horn, between the front bar and rad (drivers side) and another near the turbo which is a little bit different.

Red GT = Turbo Blue GT = non Turbo

ahhh . Nice choice. Go the 4door! I've got some S1 tail lights and rear garnish if your keen, maybe even original front indicators. it took me some time to find skirts and rear pods but they are around if you keep looking.

3 months on... Still a vast improve on the old stockies. They (performancecarpartsonline) do front & rear sets also.

Just Jap. $195 to your door. I just got one. Not on yet but soon.

Still page one from my swivel chair...