jazza08

Newer car = newer tech newer suspension bits, newer interior parts, newer paint, newer engine blah blah blah blah Thats whats attractive about new cars. Even if the GTR is factory condition (which 99.9% aren't) it still won't have the build quality of an r33 or r34, and if you've owned more than one you can see the small and big things as the models go up. Nissan engineers were never going to go backwards If you have alot of $ and want something real quick of course the GTR is going to deliver over the GTT, but its not always just about that for some... its not hard to get say 350rwhp outta a GTT which makes it a comfortable, fast and enjoyable car, if you want more than that then the GTR would be much more suitable.

You maybe lucky, but 99% of the time rb26s from R32s don't take long to pop if you put them under some pressure! Seen that over and over and over, the rb25's aren't driven as hard (as they aren't the race spec engine) and are far newer thus maintiance costs are going to be much better. The only reason i went the GTT was simply age and the look. Performance everybody has established the GTR (in decent condition, alot are SHOCKERS) would outperform the GTT all day long!

Thats pretty much your spot on reply! Daily = 34 Gtt Track = 32 Gtr

I guess this is just an each to their own kinda thing. I never envy'd a 32 GTR, i chopped numerous in my 32 GTST, however find a nice built one and you can hear/see the difference in performance from them i agree. My 34 turns ALOT more heads than my old 32 ever did (was kitted like a gtr without fenders but nobody knew the diff unless they were enthusiasts) it appeals to more mature people rather than the younger "racer" kind of look that you get with the GTR, but then the 32 had a few dings etc in it and the 34 is immaculate. If you want to race its no contest, just make sure you got the $ to back up the 15 yr old problems you can run into with the GTR. If you want to cruise its also no contest, the 34 is far more comfortable and has a more open spacious layout. I guess in an ultimate world you could just go an buy an R34 gtr

Each to their own i guess, i wouldn't go back to an r32... The things like traction control, abs, airbags etc then theres the hoses are aren't splitting and electrics that aren't falling apart due to the approx 15 year age of the cars. Plus every rb26 that hasn't been built tends to pop in the older r32s when pushed at all, again due to them bein race type cars they are used that way! And ive seen this time and time again, if it isn't built or absolutly factory mint condition i wouldnt touch it. I agree performance wise the gtr will out-do a gtt, thats obvious thats why its a GTR not a GTT (or GTST) but take the whole lot into account and im glad i chose the 34 gtt. After ownin a 300+hp 32 gtst the awd and few extra's of the gtr didn't seem enough of an upgrade to stay in that age bracket esp not when in WA you can drive down the road and see 10 sh*tter 1989 gtrs cruisin around... im not sure what its like over east but 34s are alot rarer here. Im only 20 but ive still gone the "old mans" choice hahaha

Id disagree on the brakes of a 32 gtr bein that much better than a 34 gtt and CERTAINLY comfort. The 34 is all over the 32 in that regard, no competition at all, the 32R is much more of a race car while the 34 gt-t much more of a cruiser.

I had the choice and went a 34 gt-t, the 32s are just too old which presents in everypart bein that old which means problems everywhere. If you can find a built one they are worth a look, but the 34 was the best choice in my case. Much nicer car to drive, look at and much newer in age.

Ok the car seems to be alright after letting it run for quiet awhile and then taking it for a drive. However its not smooth, is it possible ive fouled spark plugs by doin all this??? Im goin to change the plugs friday and hopefully that should solve the small mis-fires/back-fires and smooth the car out again. Anyone know if that theres a good chance if i fouled plugs while changin airflow settings etc a few times n tryin to rev the car abit while in diff settings n pourin abit of black smoke out the back ???

I looked through that link and i must be blind but i can't see the pump thread... lol

Yes ive searched but there was nothin to indicate the 040 would be fine for the power levels i was lookin for which is why i made a specific thread. The 040s are in-tank replacements or im guessin with the mountin he mentioned they arent?

Where can you buy Walbro pumps at a decent price from? You can get 040's for under $250, are Walbros much more expensive?

Its been booked in for awhile its just with some events that are over here atm nobody has anytime available until early Feb. I was hoping i could figure it out!

Hey peeps Just a few quick questions, I spoke to my workshop who said it maybe a better idea to get a Walbro pump over a Bosch as they are harder to mount? First up i have no idea where to get a Walbro pump from. Im looking for about 350rwhp(approx 260rwkw), will a Bosch 040 do the job ok? Also whats the Walbro equivilant of it if it will do the job? Ive had a search through and found different ppl are on different levels with diff pumps but can't see if the Bosch 040 would make that power level ok (with injectors etc to suit obviously). Thanks Jaz

Thats abit hard when the car was tuned over in VIC and im in WA... lol I am goin to have a new turbo put on next week and get a full re-tune with that on rather than just a quick re-tune and then another one soon after. Oh well ill just miss it for a week and a half or so

Car was tuned properly and ran very well until i looked at the settings. Peak knock levels used to be around 16-18 when pushin the car hard, so it was tuned safely aswell. Previous owner told me its a standard afm just then. Should that then be run on standard r34 or power intake (as it has a pod filter)?

Ive checked the obvious cooler piping etc but can't find anything.. Plus the car was running fine, turned it off, played with power fc and in the morning it was running very rough which indicates it must be the power fc? I will triple check all the piping and engine etc when i get home i guess Do the settings in ACCELER do anything?

The car just majorly mis-fires when you try to put load onto it, at idle its fairly ok. Basically it will pop and stutter etc quiet abit, and if u try to come onto light boost it will become 10x worse. So im guessin either the airflow has been messed up or maybe some injector settings (inj map has been tuned). Basically after driving it i turned it off, went to look at each power fc setting not knowing when you move one it changes it and you loose the last one (idiot as i said before i know). Then when i started the car in the mornin it was stuttering all over the place, ive re-set the power fc and put the ign/inj values back in and its better but still not running properly at all...

Ok... it seems the extreme load points (ign & inj) on the car aren't tuned, ie the values on N19-20 and L19-20 are fairly standard. If i was to put an 80-90% input on the airflow settings maybe this would move the map into the 'tuned' area? I can't get home to test this until 5pm but techincally i would of thought it would of ran ok up until the top end (where these load points are). So maybe thats not the answer... Even if it was a bigger afm, it should of run OK when i seleted that option? It only seems to make it worse.

I was goin to be real dumb and ask where the FAQ was hahaha thanks Paul.

i thought it was standard... but juding by whats going on maybe its not? Maybe its a vg30 or somethin... in which case i need the approx % settings to set on that area to make it run ok im guessing?

Well that solved the engine light. Any other settings that the Power FC has on that i could turn off that may make this problem go away? I can say driving it that it runs most smooth on R34 Normal. It still mis-fires when you are driving and won't boost very happily at all but on light throttle its OK, the other options seem to make it run abit worse.

Boost is controlled by AVCR... so im not sure if the Power FC does anything in that regard?

Can any of these settings cause a problem? Airflow - unsure where to put it, its currents on Power Intake, was on R34 Normal and made no real difference. Injector settings are all at 100% Accel settings are all standard from the reset aswell as the rest (cranking/water temp/rev/idle). Anyone?? Oh and the engine light has come on aswell (another indication towards airflow meter problems?). As i said there is certainly nothing loose etc in the engine bay as it drove home fine last night and started sh*t after id accidently been through the settings list below.

Thats what i thought but i reset the power fc and it ran rough. re-entered old ignition/injector values and its not really much smoother.... Im 110% it has to be somethin to do with that as i messed with it after a drive lsat night and it didn't start up properly since then (((

Hey peeps It appears ive managed to delete some settings from the Power FC by wanting to have a look at them. (IDIOT) So what i did was reset the power fc and enter the timing/injector values into the tables again (took forever...) but the engine light is still on and the car is still mis-firing abit. This seems to of happened due to the 'airflow' section which is set on Power intake (100% for all voltage..). Can ANYONE give me a run down on what could be happening here as the soonest i can get it tuned is early next month due to being booked out Car has air filter, intercooler and full exhaust for referance. Helppppppp lol Regards Jaz