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rsx84 - how easy are GTR cams to fit? wat gains do they have over stock cams? would they be a cheaper good cam upgrade rather than Tomei or something? yas - mufflers you get from any exhaust place really, they all sell some for of stainless steel mufflers which is what you want. just decide where you want to go to get the muffler put on and have at look at their mufflers while your there. yup the pod filters are the same anywhere really, Repco, SuperCheap, Auto Pro, Works Autos, they all do cheap pod filters ~$30 or less. the adaptor that you get isnt a car specific adaptor, its just a general 3" bolt on adaptor for the pod to fit onto. theres only one type of adaptor u get. When i get my old intercooler out next week ill be selling it, it has a blow off valve already on the piping too, but it isnt a very loud one. but you could get that one removed and fit a different one yourself. probably sell the Cooler, piping to suit FJ20, and Bov for $200 or so.

hmm interesting topics, cant decide which way to go! main thing is just the whole closed loop / open loop thing between Wolf and Microtech. im in WA so i have the Wolf option wide open, however its going to cost me around $800 more than a Microtech LTX8 it seems, which is a fair amount more! if the wolf was around 1600 tuned like one other guy in this thread said then id be going for that. but its more like 2200 over here.

hm good topic this one. did a search for Microtech and found this. im looking at an LTX8 for my DR30 skyline (4 cyl FJ20). can get one in and tuned for $1450 w/out handset with aftermarket separate coils (FJ has single coil stock). but the guy didnt mention removal of AFM and the additional air temp sensor so ill have to ask about that. still gonna be pretty damn cheap though for the Microtech. my other option is a Wolf V4 for ~$2200 w/out separate coils. seems micro is pretty good apart from fuel consumption possibley, but then my stock ECU is 1984 analog ecu and it idles rough and runs very rich at idle anyway

the Autostyle one is like Red with a Black roof, has an RB26DETT in it ! been in a few magazines n shit. guy over here in perth has one but i dont know the guy personally so im not too sure about details of that one !

well, i got $200 backpay from work after a union deal, so it brought me tantalisingly close to intercooler instal money .. so i cancelled the polyurethane bushes for a few weeks and got my car booked in for Hybrid intercooler & BOV install next week im keen to see how it goes, costing me $900 in stainless tho, bit exxy

man i remember not so long ago here in perth pple calling 1300$ for coilover rebuilds. $550 is bugger all! buy some leaky ones for 600 and have em rebuilt and have as new coilovers for 1/3 of the price of newies!

takakaira. is the dr in cred for sale yet or what? been there years

some manifolds have thin walls and crack too so u gotta watch for that, or make sure u have a good bracket there to support the manifold.

hm well im not sure if this helps you guys coz maybe it is your HICAS box, but i have a DR30 skyline and it also has a box under the parcel shelf and i dont know what it is. and my DR doesnt have hicas! its a silver box. what colour is your box? ! haha my car has left over sub/amp wires so i thought it may be some left of stereo gizmo but it is still all hooked up and plugged in it seems .. so i have no idea. has a sticker and model numbers on it so i could write those down and try and find out. how about ur? ne numbers etc on it?

well gauges shouldnt make a difference theyre just reading things! thats wierd. what does the a/f gauge say?

bah, bit of exhaust noise is what u want! hear ur engine! but yeh some exhaust designs/mufflers are more prone to "droning" than others when at low speeds. resonators should help with that. my exhaust is 3" from turbo the muffler straight pipe, then muffler with 5" tip! but its surprisingly quiet below about 3500-4000rpm til it gets properly on boost. guess igot lucky the dump pipe doesnt really make much difference to cruising noise. however, it does make the exhaust system noiser when u start giving it shit/hard acceleration. (i know this as i had it upgraded on my car from when i first had the car)

pm wouldnt work last night so i cbf trying again today ! my email's [email protected] cheers man

im keen for one of these front bars too when they're ready if i got the money at the time anyway! haha want better flow for cooler and intake for pod filter. u got a beter pic of ur front bar on ur car Adam? guessing thats urs in ur avatar?

yeh my DR weighed in at 1280. but im not too sure of exactly wat was in it at the time like full tank of fuel etc but id say it was around a full tank and spare wheel and everything, was 1280kg. apparently the later model DR's did raise in weight to around 1260 or so ive read on few sites ... so that plus the fuel ? i dunno buy yeah thats wat mine weighs! mite have to go wiegh it again myself to confirm. well that bush stuff sucks but ill see how i go for 1 year with urethane in there and if they wear out over the year and i dont see the value in them in the ball joints ill get rubber put in next year ..!

haha someone should build it. super FJ! im too young otherwise id be keen! haha plus my car needs about 2.5k of rust fixing in a year or 2 so id do that before stroker kits and shit but i duno the 26 prob still be bit better coz of more capacity and more cylinders so more torque off boost and to get the big turbo going? but then true when u think of 26 u think of gtrs which have 4wd and a 30/31 wont ... so i dunno realy haha

Ghostrider - sorry to question further, but why not replace lower control arm with polyurethane? i dont care either way but i may need to ring them first thing monday and ask for them to cancel the poly part and re order me a rubber part if its not too late ... since im in WA and all the parts are coming from the East. im only getting polyurethane coz thats what they automatically chose for me. like they said this this and that is worn out, itll cost $500 to fix. so i said okay book it for next wednesday. then i thought shit i wonder if theyre regular bushes or if i can upgrade to poly ones so i rang back and hes was like nah that price is for poly ones already. so yeah i just went with what he said ... but a guy i know said careful or you make it too stiff? is that what having poly bushes in the control arms will do? too jarring or something? whats the deal? haha i must admit i didnt complain about it being poly bushes though since im a modifier type guy at heart, so if ever i need to buy a part for my car i want it to be in some way 'better' or 'stronger' than the part it's replacing. so thats why i just said okay to all urethane bushes! if you realy got serious the 26 would beat the FJ wouldnt it not? 26 can make more power ultimately. like the 26 with some upgraded turbos and cooler and exhaust would make some pretty decent power even if the 31 does weigh 1360kg. my DR weighs 1280kg. so its not that much more plus yeah, you get a better base for mods, like the simple mods to an FJ that get like low 200rwhp would get you plenty more in the 26, and then bolt on turbo upgrades more again without going too serious even yet. *shrug* i like 31 2 doors too i guess haha

i heard the R31 rack will fit but not straight in ... hassles involved. probably bit similar to the bluebird situation but possibley a bit less intense i might assume? either way always going to be labour intensive i suppose. do you have to replace ball joints or is it just bushes or something? i got my car DR30 booked in for next week coz i got my suspension/steering checked out today in the front and diagnosed as having buggered Idler Arm Bushes, Lower Ball Joint Bushes, and Radius Rod Bushes. so im getting polyurethane ones put throughtout and il see how i go then

hm tramlining realy sucks,& i only have a DR30 skyline with 205/60/15's on it! got my susp checked over today and i need new 'idler arm bushes, lower ball joint bushes, and radius rod bushes'. getting all these replaced with polyurethane ones next wednesday so hopefully this fixes my tramlining issues! having a steering box and not rack on pinion i guess doesnt help either due to the steering having much more free play in it and tending to wander abit in a straight line anyway if its got no weight on it, so when it starts to tramline its pretty hard to get hold of! i got 215/45/17s going on all round in a couple of months though so i beter sort this tramlining now while i got 15s or im buggered i think! haha guy at susp place didnt say anything about upper control arm bushes so i can only assume he checked them out when generally checking the suspension today..

probably entry level coz theyre basic and quite soft. for trackwork you want hard generally ... so theyre probalby simply road oriented thus theyre entry level since theyre not really meant for track at all .. but not that many pple want track capability/hardness anyway so theyre probably quite good. i dont like medium hard coilovers though they just shit me i want to hammer over bumps or cruise over bumps, not have some stupid middle ground where u sorta half-absorb the bumps and u end up bouncing around like a frigging cork asif you had your car slammed on its bumpstops, when its just the fact the shit aussie roads are so uneven that your semi-hard shocks are trying to absorb everyhing and bounce you round! mind you that was how i felt with HotBits Street Race coilovers maybe these ones are better! dunno wat street race spring rates are but thyre not the same quality as tein

rsx84 - yeh a mate of mine posted it on a chat room and i had a good look at all the pics n info. be a pretty damn nice car so is it definately yours then ? Neo - haha its hard to compare i guess coz true, an RB26 is like 6k + install and stuff ... throw 6k at the FJ and itll probably be indestructable and bloody move too .. mind you it'll probably use more fuel and be less everyday-driver friendly too ... but really all i want is 350rwhp and a good all round package .. no need for gimmicky tt setups and stuff i spose! haha always remember the silver Zeni Tan DR30 that had the 26 in it up for auction a while ago on Prestige i think it was ... wasnt that much either but i cant remember exactly how much. low teens i think. mind u that 31 looks almost as cool ... but id **** off that GTS-R wing ... if it was a real gts-r i see the sentimental value of it, buit otherwise its just bloody ugly i reckon!! haha

hehe is that the 17k one? that looks cool. lucky bugger. i wouldnt mind RB26'ing my DR30 one day! if i get a proper job and lots of money ill see what happens! haha stopped into the suspension joint today to check out my front suspension coz that knocking was really starting to shit me ... needs Lower Control Arm bushes Radius Rod bushes Idler Arm bushes so im getting all those replaced with polyurethane ones, costing $500. but also noticed my steering box is leaking ... needs a rebuild and shit which is $500 also bugger. hhaha. looks like intercooler is back another month or two again! need that tax return!! *continues filling out the sign-up form for his Virgin Credit Card* >

wheres teh rattling coming from? does it do it all the time? does it do it both in the heat of the day and also cold of night? does it do it with different types of fuel (like U98 or a lesser quality one) ? could be many things, or could be pinging/pinking/detonation ... very bad haha

i found iridiums to be shite in my S13 ... soon as i upped the boost with an EBC it started missing. took the iridiums out and put in just your normal cheapy plugs that are like 12$ a set and it worked a treat. id say find out what is the cheap copper alternative to your plugs (NGK brand still though) and put some of them in at the same gap of .75-.8. for $12 it cant hurt to see if it is just crappy plugs. yeah u need to dyno your car with a fuel pressure guage to test the fuel pressure. however, if you are upping your boost, it is a sensible option to upgrade your fuel pump anyway, especially if your planning to run the higher boost all the time and more power in the future. an 044 intank replacement is usually a good bet. if it still has issues and you want to go for a Malpassi pressure regulator, do that after you've done the fuel pump. the Malpassi wont do much good if you have a stock fuel pump coz the pump will struggle to keep up the increased pressure anyway. i had a misfire in my DR30 skyline, changed plugs and leads, reset ecu, upgraded fuel pump, and still had a misfire at around 1bar. after fitting a Malpassi Rising Rate regulator the misfire is now gone. try plug changing and see how you go to start with though!

i havent had a look for that topic myself on R33 diagnostics, but its a simple process to do. If your not confident doing it yourself, id say ring a proper import type workshop and just say you want to do the diagnostic and how easy is it to do yourself or can they do it. if its easy they should let you know how to do it, or take it in and they should sort it out easily enough. its just a matter of removing the cover off the ecu and putting a meter in there somewhere and interpretting the output from the computer. id probably prefer a proper import based workshop to test it as they most likely have more experience in these areas than any old mechanic would.

doing the diagnostic mode for the ECU would be a good idea to check your sensors. from there theres just alot of things it could be unfortunately u cant tune a stock ecu car so if its serviced and fresh plugs thats the main thing.