[ant]

yeah the shine will go ... but my car has a bit of scratch on the passenger door under the doorhandle, and a scrape along the wheel arch/side on passenger side also .. i polished it day after i bought it (new years eve last year haha) and it covered those up .. then i noticed them again after i washed it, so i just polished those areas, & they ended up looking way shinier than the rest so i had to do the whole car!! cant hurt anyway, puts a coating of polish on it again. ill wait till the scratches show up again which'll probly be around october or so and ill polish it up again ready for summer time cruising! haha

hmm dunno why it says i have none either ... i wasnt too sure how to use the gallery thing took me a while to suss it out so maybe i didnt check a box somewhere along the line or something but they're in there haha lol yeah man ****en love the shine! i used the red coloured Turtle Wax on the body, and then this bumper black stuff which is kinda like black shoe polish on the bumpers & side plastics to make sure they're black as the rest of the car. I love the side on pic where you see all reflections along the side hmm now you guys make me want fatter rims haha ah well i just impulse bought those 17's i wasnt really intending on upgrading, just ive always liked the look of them and thought they'd match the car coz they look pretty old school (tho theyre made 1992 by the sticker on the inside, so theyre nearly 10 yrs younger than the car!). they have a +36 offset. not too sure how much room they have to the strut, probably couldve gone 0.5-1" wider. but like i say, i just bought them on a whim for 200$ the pair! i was thinkin of getin some 16x7 enkies for the front rather than waiting for 17s .. but then 17s will look better =]

dude id say that the offset is about the same, im only surmising however i know people that put NA R33 rims onto their s13s without troubles, and s13 rims generally fit 30's okay i think. so id say you'd be right with 16s from a 33! 0HR30T - can u even fit 9's on the back without coilovers n stuff? haha ill have to get some better rear-on angled sortof pics eventualy of the rims .. i only had 1 photo left on the digicam card so i just took 1 pic from a good general angle ! ah in classic skylines now i see , i stil used the link from general chat haha

0HR30T - yeh the rears are the Rays rims i got. they are a bit skinny i guess, 17x7s they are. the Watanabes are 15x6s. couldnt put my finger on quite what didnt look 'right' about the Rays but must be the width. im gonna hang onto the Watanabes too though, so i can pick and choose i guess. i think ill stick to Watanabes if ever get into club event/track type stuff so i dont mess up the 17s and to save on tyres haha but then it probably wont grip/handle aswell with the smaller wheels *shrug* Yas - haha yeah man my exhaust is ****en huge. everyone always says that. it came on the car that muffler, its massive muffler and then 5.25" tip! u can easily fit ur closed fist into it with room to spare. probably a bit big but im not gona take it off haha you probably get a muffler with a 3 - 4" tip. probably be pretty hard to get one as big as mine anyway!! haha

got some pics of my car today all shiny and clean haha and 1 with the new 17s on the back (just for a photo tho not leaving 17s on the back and 15s on the front! haha) i reckon some AVS Model 6 rims, or Enkie 5 spokes would look sweet on the front in 17", with the Rays on the back. what you guys reckon?

yas - yeah you get the adaptors from the same place you buy the pod filters. made by some high octane parts or something !? but yeah if they sell pods theyll sell the adaptors. just go to like Auto Pro or Repco. cheap pods are okay they work just as well, then if they get dirty chuck it and buy another one for like $15, but they last ages anyway especially where u live in the city and goin to uni, not very dusty round those parts! (well i think u live in city, i seen ur car there too ... hahah u cant hide a DR30 from me!) my DR30 made 156rwkw with catback 3" zorst, pod filter, small aftermarket Trust FMIC kit and 15.5psi boost. it also was going a bit lean top end too around the mid 12's AFR. ive since gotten the full exhaust done, Malpassi FPR to try and richen it up top end a bit more, and trying to save to get my Hybrid cooler in then see what i get! but stock turbo is only rated to like 230rwhp max anyway isnt it so thats gona be the limiting factor. but yeah, mines making around 160rwkw alright and it only has the Trust cooler which is like the size of a stock S13 one and has like 1.5m of inlet piping that crosses the front of the motor! so with the Hybrid piped straight in i should gain an extra few rwkw's and fair bit of torque i hope. i dont fear the RB ;D

haha shit thats a fair few problems, probably is best to take to auto ellecy i spose! fuel pump on all the time's a bit dodgey! needs to go via the relay and then to the ECU coz ECU sends it a pulse to click the relay and prime it in the Ignition position then click off again after the timed period. then starts proper wen car is turned on. so it seems yours is wired straight to power and bypassing the ecu n relay or something! yeah hey too many RB20s in here! ill stick to my FJ shes all good now. all the electrics work, brand new odyssey battery is in, malpassi has a nice bracket to hold it in place, replaced my broken relay for $10 from a wrecker ..! so i gave the car the full clean inside and out today, plus red turtle wax polished the whole body, and put bumper black bootpolish type stuff on the bumpers so theyre nice n black again! comes up a treat when i go to the effort of doing all that with it. thought it deserved it for getting back working in time for today for my first Exam ! haha the guy at the wrecker didnt even know what an FJ was. he goes wats that in there? i said FJ20 he goes what? i said FJ20, stock engine. hes like ah right noone has them they all take em out and put in rb25s .. or 26s. but i said nah im staying FJ then he started saying i should twin turbo it coz it has enough room there .. reminded me of that one you saw over east rsx84. needa get some pics of that thing yet! haha

yeah true the relays are probably teh same. though i couldnt find a full diagram with all relays for R30 skylines anywhere so im not totaly sure. but i did find an L series (aussie model R30) wiring diag for the electrical system and it has 2 accessory relays, 1 efi relay, and 1 ignition relay. and my car has 2 ignition relays .... so it may not be identical. id say look on the net for S12 Wiring Diagram. thats what i have, its probably not identical but its very close id say. thats what greatly helped me to narrow down my problems with my car. you can see where things get power from etc, helps u trace the problem abit and see if things are related anyway! i cant give u a link for the diagram though coz my dad found and downloaded it. its a 20 meg Bitmap file!! lol but worth having id say. ive converted it to a 1.47meg jpeg so i guess i could send it or something if you need it. have you checked all your fuses too? indicators also supply power to ur digital dash clock, so if thats off too then you may have lost that supply so it could be a fuse (from lookin at this diagram i have!) also on this diagram, your wipers get power from accessory position, and theres a wiper relay listed, so maybe one of the accessory relays i called 1 & 2 could be for wipers. maybe try swapping those 2 relays around and see if the wipers come back with key in accessory position. alternatively you can get a test meter thing and put it on the relays and test if the relay is blown. thats what my dad did to confirm that 1 of mine was stuffed. i guess it may be easier to get an auto eleccy to check your relays with a meter if you dont have one or know how .. may cost a bit but wouldnt be much i cant imagine! would take literally about 10mins max! you just put a positive and negative probe on 2 pins n check them. or yeh, just try swapping the 2 accessory relays i said and see if your wipers come back! but the indicators seems more specific, as the relay for them does all your gauges (except speedo). so if your guages work, then your relay is fine. so it wouldnt be a relay fault. hm and as for headlamps, theres 2 headlamp relays and all sorts on this diagram, so im not too sure whats wat there haha

rsx84 - hey, the relays are for FJ20ET .. im confused i thought u had an RB20 or something ? or you have more than one car? haha yeah i couldnt read the japanese either i just used trial and error to work them out. the only one i havent yet worked out is the brown wierd one by itself. says 12v or something on it. but all the others i know they are; As you look down on the fuse box, bottom 2 relays towards the left: --> Bottom Left relay (Black) - Parking Lights relay --> To the right of above relay (Blue) - Accessory relay 1 okay these are the top row of relays, working from left to right: --> [slightly sunken below the rest] (Green) - EFI relay (first fuse below this is efi fuse too, not sure about the rest of the fuses!) --> (Blue) - Ignition relay 1 - does radiator warning light, fuel warning light, (!) warning light, & possibly a couple of other warning lights from memory --> (Green) - Fuel Pump relay --> (Blue) - Ignition relay 2 - does seatbelt warning light, tachometer, boost guage, fuel guage, oil pressure guage, temperature guage, indicators [not hazards], couple of other warning lights --> (Blue) - Main Beam relay --> (Black) - Accessory relay 2 sorry i dont know exactly what all the relays do, i know what the two ignition relays do, simply because my Accessory Relay 1 was blown, and got put into Accessory Relay 2 position, hence all that stuff didnt work! so i know what those 2 do. the wiring diagrams i used to sorta help were S12 Series wiring diagrams for all engine variants on the one diagram, took 6 A3 pages to print it out! its not the same, but its similar since S12s had the FJ20. more helpful than just an fj20 ECCS diagram !! Boof - well, ive reassembled all the dash and shit today, done a proper ground from the pump up into the car under the rear seat, got out my dead battery, and bought a little Odyssey ($250 ) coz i know ill need it ultimately in a month or so when i eventually get round to having my intercooler installed. but the Odyssey is much smaller so i need to modify my battery holder bracket to secure it, and i also need bigger terminals coz stock ones are too small to go over the Odyssey. so im getting the bracket sorted out tomorow, and hopefully getting some new terminals too. then it should be ready to go!! fingers ***en crossed wen i turn the key tomorow arvo i tell ya...!! haha every time i start it something else wrong lately so im not getting my hopes up for tomorow though found out my exams on friday not tomorow (thurs) after all so give me and extra day to try and fix the stoopid car! haha

man car electrics are enough to drive you crazy hey .. my mate does it as a profession, well hes final year apprentice, duno how he does it every day me and my old man stripped my whole dash apart, as in glovebox out, stereo, tt, EBC etc facia removed all that stuff out, steering wheel and etc removed all that taken out, and instrument panel out, oh and bottom panels out! also had to d/c boost gauge off steering column plastic! then we ended up looking in the fuse box again. after several hours trying to work out which relays are which, after a long time we arrived at 2 left that ddint seem to do much so we swapped them over and walah! when my mate had been testing my relays on the weekend to find the Fuel Pump problem which was the original problem, he'd accidentally replaced 2 identical relays, but 1 of them happened to have been blown since i got the car (hence fuel warning light,radiotor warning lite etc didnt work but i never knew!) and he'd put it into the other spot, which meant that all my guages except speedo, and my indicators and other warning lights that used to work, werent working!! so yeah we put the good relay back an im gonna get a new relay for my other warning lights asap!! but after all that i went inside for a drink then back out and before putting it all back together thought id test it one more time ... and the fuel pump wouldnt prime again!! which was the original problem we fixed by making a new ground wire to chassis... after more deliberating we have arrived at the battery being ****ed aswell! shit .. hopefully a new battery and relay tomorow and im back in action! gota get me an Odyssey in preparation for my cooler install ... damn electrics !

yas - haha yeh man u can get just a muffler for a few hundred or so and get that put on. will be a bit louder and look better. if you want more performance you get a full exhaust tho. thatl give u more power and torque. Crimmo - wat do you mean this issue? i only seen that R30map site once before and didnt understand all the japanese so i sorta gave up on it! do you mean that media player thing on the left ? it seemed to take forever to load for me last time so i stopped it. i only have 28.8k connection! haha oh well ill try and let it load and stuff now see how it goes...

f*ck dude id just go there and show em everything and make them take a note of everything too so they dont miss anything u want fixing. they should be fixing it now and paying for a loan car for you while they do it too but yeh i would have gone there and showed them the problems in person myself to show how angry you are about it. i mean they had the car for ages already just to deliver a sub-standard job, so i dont think its unreasonable of you to want it fixed ASAP. problem is you cant go sortof threatening them if your going to have them fixing it i spose.

soarers definately feel quicker than they really are i think? i dont really know why but they seem to! friend of mine got a 93 tt auto and it was stock and he took me for a spin and it felt pretty damn quick for its size and weight. at the time i drove an S13 with ~200rwhp which would be pretty much a low/flat 13 second car, no way soarer would be close to that in stock trim, but it felt almost as quick from my perspective as a passenger. i guess maybe its the difference in power delivery, its very smooth and linear being larger capacity, more cylinders, and two turbos! another friend has one, full turbo back exhaust system, hybrid FMIC, apexi boost controller, and apexi safc2, his got ~300rwhp on 1bar or so boost. ran a 13.5 best or so with this setup. thats not a bad time, but its not awesome sortof thing. but my perspective is from a 13 flat S13, not an R33 GTS-T. my s13 made light work of similarly modded 33 gts-t's but never got to race a soarer. yeh mate with the 300rwhp says the stock turbos are what lets em down, get rid of them and get a big single and then u can really have some fun with it =)

yas - yeah a Pod filter is cheap and easy to put on there, just grab a cheapy one you can get em from Repco for like $20! you'll probably need an adaptor thing too, which is like 70$ or so i think? but you'd need to look at your car when u take out the stock air box. but since your car is like mine with no hole in the front bumper for air to go through, it mite get hot air into the pod anyway. but mine has a pod filter and goes okay so yeah a pod is a cheap upgrade if u want to do that. what year is your car? mines 83 i dont think they had intercooled FJs til a bit later on. if yours has no intercooler, there'll be a black pipe coming up from your turbo on the bottom right of the engine as u look into the engine bay, and itll come up and go across the front of the engine and into your intake manifold on the left. if yours isnt intercooler which id say it probably isnt, a cooler wil make a big difference even if its just my old one if i sell it to you in a while. lol yeah man your exhaust is shockingly small. full exhaust and pod filter, and FJ20 sound awesome!!

also, i got a pair of 2nd hand 17" Rays 3 peice mesh rims on the weekend for 200ea, one of them is buckled on the back tho, needs repairing for ~$100, but im pretty happy with them for $150ea. got some 2nd hand like new (still got knobbley things on the sides!) Bridgestone Potenza 215/45/17 tyres for $280 fitted and balanced too from 2nd hand tyre store! but my question is what offset 17's do i need for the front? im going to get anotehr pair for the front, go the mismatched wheel look but yeah i dont know what offset i need? the Rays are +35 offset, and fit fine on the back, theyre from an S13. however i know the offset is more vital on the front for turning obviously. my current Watanabe's are 15s with 205/60/15 tyres, and on full lock the inside tyre walls actually scrub on my steering arms and make a horrible sound as it is! so im a bit worried about offsets and things with 17s being so much larger. want to make sure they dont rub any more. i know rims offsets have been covered previously in the thread but its such a long thread to go back through for info these days! haha cheers for replies!

tigeryas - haha i knew it would be you. you go to UWA yeh? ive seen ur car a few times. i go there also, mines the red&black 2 door, i usually park in the carpark across from where u you usually park along the road edge. interesting yours is turbo, it has the non turbo front bumper like mine. (no intake on the intake side for air). was curious if ur car was turbo or not actually. id recommend get yourself a full exhaust system, 3" from the turbo back. no catalytic converter either, you dont need one pre-1986. u should get a full mild steel system for around 1000$ with a nice shiny stainless steel muffler at the end ! haha does yours have an intercooler? if not, then that would be next on the list. unfortunately my electrics have died now and im going to have to fix them, otehrwise i was planning on putting my new bigger front mount intercooler in in a couple of weeks, and i could have sold you my old one for cheap. its a smallish one, but its a genuine Trust front mount kit made for non-intercooled FJ turbos. if your still after a cheap cooler in a couple of months or so let me know and ill sell u the whole thing ready to bolt straight on. it works really well for a small cooler, i just want a real big one for future =) neway, back to study 1st exam thursday

hey tigeryas, im in perth too with DR30 fj turbo. mines 2 door but. what colour is yours? mines ****ed atm tho, wiring has gone all to shit, no power to fuel pump but i can fix that with a ground to the chassis near the pump, but now all my instruments have stopped working except the speedo, and my indicators dont work (tho the hazards do). mate was trying power from pump positive to relay to see which clicked and stuff, maybe burnt something else out now thats made all these new problems. so my dash is in peices and the car doesnt go atm gona have to bus to exams it looks like

Adam-RSX - yep the stock pressure regulator is the mushroom looking thing with a vacuum line stuck in the top of it. towards the back of the engine between plenum & head. For the Malpassi, you can leave that one there and then connect the Malpassi in series and it overrides the stock one anyway, or you can remove the stock one. i removed the stock one, but the Malpassi still wont fit in the same place coz its bigger. mines over just infront of the driver side strut tower and p/s fluid reservoir on a bracket. My turbo timer & HKS EBC are both mounted in the plastic to the left of the headunit. they came like this wen i got the car. the EVC had a black metal bracket for mounting it, and theyve used that to hold it and just screwed it into one of the holes at the bottom of the surround. then just got a bit of similar metal and made a little add-on bracket for the Turbo Timer under that. then just cut out around them in the plastic. looks pretty neat. they dont quite sit straight tho they tend to sag a little the the right since theyre only held properly via bracket on one side, but if i wasnt lazy i could easily secure them better! Adam-RSX - When the cars turned off my oil pressure guage sits about 2mm below zero. can't remember where it sits when driving, i think around the middle or just under, but can have a better look next time i drive it if u want to know! haha

hm well you guys probably dont care too much but success! my dr30 is working again A-Ok after that little electrical scare. Malpassi rising rate is in set for 34psi idle pressure, running 1bar boost, and it goes well. seems to not be working as hard, i guess its probably just lost a bit of edge coz its running richer overall, but pulls hard all teh way to about 6.5k wen i shift now so it seems happier. idle is still a bit rough but slightly better. fixed my BOV too, it had a brass restrictor in the T-piece for the vacuum. even with proper vac supply its still one of the quietest BOVs ever, tis a Prof one. (proffesional sheepdog maybe?). just sounds like my dog sneezing like 'tttsssss' haha works better tho now with a proper supply, less delay on shifts. quite surprised that it made a difference really but it has. so im happy with my car again atm ! haha back on track for FMIC in about 3-4weeks.

yeah my DR30 is pillarless .. no power windows on mine though just winders. the windows dont wind straight down and out of the way tho they sorta only go 1.3 of the way down and end up at a 45degree angle angled forwards coz of the rubber bit on the front of the rear window for the front windows the seal against, if u get me. so u cant just have a big gaping hole with all windows down haha and yeh it does flex a bit. thats y im trying to get a Jenesis Centre Floor Bar which is like a strut brace that bolts into the floor across the middle behind the front seats to stiffen the chassis =]

well i went outside today to my car to pull the dash apart and look for any burnt wires but decided before doing that id open the fuse box and turn ignition and listen for any of the relays ticking over to try and find fuel pump relay. anyway, turned the key and *bzzzt* pump was back to life. power was back to it again. i then turned it on and it was super lumpy and rough. checked the pressure guage and it was reading 41psi idle pressure rather than the 34psi i set it to the day before before it died. then found out that the guage, rather than sitting on zero, was actually sitting another 1/4 of the guage face further down, below the vacuum area (guage had vacuum bit on the bottom 1/4 of it). so it was probably about 15psi out or so so wen i connected it initially and thought it was at 19psi, it was probably at 34psi like i wanted. and then wen i turned it up to 34psi, it was more like 50psi idle pressure. so wen i took it for the 2 spins round the block, it must have just overloaded the system and thats y the wires were burning. ECU must have noticed and cut the power to the pump at this point i guess. so i connected another guage, disconnected the 2nd air valve thing that i had hooked up yesterday when it was at the wrong higher pressure, and got some new plugs since the old ones were all fouled up, and it sat and idled perfectly at 34psi idle pressure. so just gota take it for a drive tomorow and see how it goes, see if it still has the huge misfire that it had and if it starts to get too hot and short the wires again. hopefully no permanent damage was done but we'll see tomorow i guess!