[ant]

wheres the picture? !

Weetbix - the wheels you refer to are Watanabe RS8's. classic old school japanese rims actually look quite good on modern cars too like S13's and the like. But they look best usualy in 16" or smaller size, and usually only are found in that size. i have a DR30 with those rims on it not the ones off the bright red one, but like the ones on the White skyline, the 3rd picture down from the top they're really light aswell, especially for an old rim. Much lighter than normal alloy mag wheels and chrome wheels these days. easily pick up with one hand and put my wheels back on haha Dave - lol id agree totally with the old 2000 looking like a Sigma. its not cool i must say haha but the Sigma actually would have copied that Skyline. but u jhust see more sigmas than skylines so it seems like the good car looking cheap, rather than the cheap sigma looking like a good Skyline haha

well man as u can see by the labelling the springs are pretty obviously RS*R springs from Japan. The shocks i cant tell from those photos, if you look at the bottom of the shock body, beneath the spring perch, shocks will usually have what brand they are stamped onto the body of the shock. So look at the bottom bit of the shock it should tell you what they are. They dont appear to be damper adjustable at the top, thats just thread for the screw to go on to. However, i could be wrong, it's probably easier for you to jack up the car and then undo the nut on the top, and try to turn that Centre shaft bit and see if it moves sort of thing. then push up and down on the car, before and after, to see if it is harder to push up and down. my fronts are damper adjustable and have alittle thing on the top with numbers 1 to 4 for setting them. so i dunno about yours myself =]

LuvDR - ah cool, g/box oil is cool then i just hope wen i get this new clutch in there its just that that is making it crunch gears atm, not the g/box itself! lol got my new Koni's in the rear. cars much better handling and firmer overall. however, its like 1.5" higher at the back now like the front is pretty much. has 2 finger gap tyre to guard at the front, and 1.5-2 finger gap tyre to guard at the back. bah humbug, the KYB's it had were height adjustable shocks at their lowest setting, and the konis i have goten arent handles alot beter and shiteload firmer, but feels less stable round sweeping undulations at around 150+ (gets a bit floaty coz it gets air under there i spose ) oh well, Kings superlow springs next for suspension i spose ! haha do that in 2-3 weeks time i guess ! =] DR starting to get fun now though slowly fixing the niggles ! alternator to sort out next, coz its loose. haha oh and window seals ... man theres always something else that needs money spent on it! lol

DR30RS - my car i got from another guy locally, a friend of a friend. you priobably know it as the 2 door from C-Red ;D the one that was at the dyno day wen u got ur 344rwhp i think. red n black with C-Red sticker on the bonnet. ive taken them stickers off now though haha and done bosch pump and new rear shocks. then clutch and some rust repair is next on the list, before bigger cooler probably around winter time. moneys an issue coz im only casual nightfiller coz im still at uni haha id be very keen to have a look and go for a spin in your DR, especially when it gets the cams in there. i heard a bit about it from Steve at SST wen i was getting the pump in. sounds like a similar way i wanna go, id like 350-400rwhp really. but i dont like the sound of the huge lag you have .. so i mite need to tone down max power goals for more driveability, but yeh ill see how i go wen i eventualy get round to turbo selection in 6-8 months or so ! =]

im a big advocate of resetting the ECU since i did it on my DR30 (FJ20ET engine) my last car, S13, didnt seem to make huge improvements from ECU resets, mainly it did a bit wen i got full exhaust, and also wen i got big intercooler. but nothing major really. but the DR! wen i got it it was running shit, misfiring like hell, seeming to hit the revlimiter as it tried to come on boost, hunting at idle, just running all shades of shite. then i changed the plugs (they were pretty worn out but not totally) and unplugged battery overnite and reset the ECU, and WALLAH! absolute perfection! revved rite from 0-7000rpm redline without a hiccup, didnt hesitate on gearshifts, and didnt hesitate on/off throttle. it felt like a new car really just from ECU reset. but this is an old management system so its probably pretty shagged haha my mate said his FJ s12 did the same thing, wenever it got rough he just reset its ECU and it was perfect again! also i accidentally overboosted mine to like 1.2bar and it made it go all retarded too so i had to reset to fix that. (0.9 is most i usualy run, or just under)

i guess its horses for courses. if u want real low and stiff go coilovers, if u just want stiff u could do it without the coilovers (but then if u get low springs that are illegal its hassles) however now even if the coilovers are wound up, some pits seem not to pass them coz theyre just too hard they say. my DR30 has KYB insert front shocks (top adjustable) with some jap lowered (not slammed haha) progressive rate springs. rear has some lowered (sortof ) springs, and i just bought some new Koni's and firmed them up a bit out of the box. overall, this as it is is quite high, (say 2 finger gap tyre to wheelarch front and back) but still okay, and it is stiff and bumpy like coilovers i had in my S13, but probably does handle a bit better around bends as it doesnt push understeer coz its too stiff, it still lets the car lean and transfer weight a bit. so as it is now (tho the Konis might wear softer over time ) it handles as good if not better than my S13 which had Cusco and JIC coilovers at one time for a few weeks each. i had the HotBits coilovers that Wilkinsons sell, i bought them brand new, not the normal ones i got the 'harder' street/race with helper springs, and fully adjustable camber tops, and they cost me around $3000 bought and installed. and in my opinion they werent worth it. they were too bouncey and soft feeling, and still caused understeer. i prefered the bumpy JIC coz they felt more sure footed and handled as good if not beter even on poor tyres. however, as the DR is now, it probably outhandles both of these cars, with 205/60/15 tyres, and misalinged front wheels (need that alignment haha) so yeh u can get a nice firm feeling car that handles well, but it doesnt look mean and low. then u can get Jap coiloivers, which will be probably slightly harder again, allow u to realy dump ur car, but my actualy handle a bit worse coz it will cause understeer if theyre too low, and may skip or feel uncertain if the road is inevenly surfaced or rippled on high speed turning. try and go for a spin in some peoples R33's with coilovers and with normal shock absorber combos. i reckon this would be the best way to go and see if the ride/handling tradeoff with the height/adjustment is wat u want! sorry for long post but suspension seems to have accidentaly become a forte of mine, ive spent probably 5000 or more on different stuff for different cars, still havent realy liked ne of it hugely meh haha

my clutch also engages very low, but i have DR30 and it has a self adjusting slave cylinder mechanism with an arm that sinks back into the slave cylinder to set the engagement point as the teeth of the press plate wear out and push back. so it automatically adjusts itself down as it wears out. so mines very low now as it is worn out. but if urs just suddenly did it and is sticking, it is likely theres a leak somewhere if fluids are still high. its probably easier just to drop by a good clutch place that will take it for a spin and let you know

just wondering if anyone knows the DR30 clutch diameter of the top of their head?? :] clutch shop guy said its either 25mm or 23mm i think it was? anyone know for sure? just curious coz im geting a 9 puck and 2500 pressure plate, but if its the smaller diameter itll cost me ~$100 less for the clutch package, which would be handy, il have some money to spend, otherwise i cant go out for a couple of weekends haha but the clutch shop guys wont know till the day theyre doing it (next Thurs) so by then its a bit late if ive spent money i need haha

rsx - the suspension place told me nothing about the koni's watsoever. lol. i had the option of 2 shitty soft shockies, and some Koni's, which i know are inherently more sport orientated and would be firmer, specialy if i just twist em to firmest setting straight out of the box pretty much. so thats what im going to do. he didnt say anything about external adjustment of height or damper, so the only other Koni shock left in the range that is sport is the Yellow ones.! i read some reviews etc of them and theyre sposed to be quite good, and firm on the hardest setting, so ill just see how they go i guess. theyre my only option anyway atm my cars already slammed in the arse end anyway and i like it that way so im not too fussed about height adjustment for the rear. wouldnt mind it for the front, but yeh the lip would scrape, and the front shock/spring combo is pretty good and firm so il keep it. i adjusted the fronts from setting 3 to setting 4 today, feels much better, sharper turn-in. might go crazy and set it to the max, 5, and see how they are, once i get my new firmer Koni rears its always okay to have real hard front and slightly softer rears anyway, just means if the arse steps out u can bring it back without the front going soggy and throwing you at the kerb wen it comes back haha nah the seals i need doing are the ones around the rear 1/4 window on the outside, both sides, and around the front and rear windscreens. possibley even the door ones just to freshen them, but they seem to seal ok still. theres minor rust on the edge of the back windscreen and 1/4 window on the drivers side, so il get those replaced and rust fixed in a couple months before winter. also rust in the boot near hinges so mite need a boot seal also. damn 20 yr old car. but i still love it ;D had my last car the S13 for a 18mths and spent 7k on it, and i enjoy driving this way more straight away, even with its rough idle, rattley alternator, shagged shockies, and non-FM tape deck! haha

well, after ringing about every reputable suspension joint in perth the only options that i constantly got referred to were, regular KYB, regular Monroe, or Koni Yellows (internally adj). so i ordered the yellows, get em mid/late this week. so il get them and firm them up straight out of the box and hope theyre nice n stuff. should be beter than my worn out old ones in atm anyway got a Bosch 450hp fuel pump going in Wed aswell. so the ball has started rolling on the mods! next i need to get all the window seals etc fixed up tho

i dont know much of HKS BOV's, but with any pipe thing like that you can use either a cable-tie or a very small screw-tighten type clamp. the clamp is overkill. as long as u put a small zip tie on and zip it up as tightly as you can, you shouldnt have any problems with it i wouldnt say. my BOV on my car has its vacuum line held via a cable tie and has no problems. but yeh if it falls off, which i doubt it will if u do it nice and tight, a really small screw-up hose clamp would do the job too =)

hey pple, just wondering if anyone has KYB shock absorbers in their car? Trying to get some opinions on how hard/soft watever they are. atm rear of my DR30 has KYB Super Special externally adjustables that it came with, but theyre stuffed, as in one is on setting 4 and is on setting 1, and the one on setting 1 is still slightly harder than the one on 4. lol theyre gas ones and cant be repaired apparently so its bin time for them and some newies to go in,. but susp places here in perth ive rang around say they cant get the Super Specials again as theyd be overly expensive. They even cant get the KYB AGX externally adjustables either, coz they arent made for R30 series. so basically its regular KYB im looking at. i rang the 2 WA main suppliers of KYB, and also a third shop stocking them. i got told a) theyre pretty soft, not really soft, but pretty supple, not sport valved or anything B) theyre not hard, not soft, but firm, definately firm c) our supplier tells us they are quite soft but from out experience theyre firm, and as such we havent sold many coz most people find them too hard so basically im just trying to get some real life answers from people regarding these regular KYB shocks ! the SuperSpecials atm are very bouncey, wat with one not really working and the other on its softest setting haha i dont want knew ones to be the same!! cheers for ne feedback dudes.

oh and the interior ... mmm Nardi wheel and Recaro bucket seats, much better than the old S13 stock seats and interior

mines iron mask front, no less ;D ive got a few pics but theyre from a phone camera so qquality is low, doesnt do my polishing shine efforts justice haha but ill attach anyway for now! i rang around about suspension today, all i can get hold of around here for my car is standard type KYB shock absorbers. does anyone have these? i dont know if they are going to be hard enough for me. atm it has KYB Super Special externally adjustable rear ones but theyre buggered and soft so i want new ones. i rang the suspension places and ended up getting 4 different opinions on how hard the regular KYB are! i got told 'not hard, not soft, but supple'; 'not hard, not soft, but firm'; then one guy said his supplier tells him 'they arent hard' but 'in his experience they are firm and thats why they dont tend to sell that many'. so im not sure really. problem is to get them i need to get them ordered in, so i cant really push em up and down and see if i like how hard they are, coz once they're ordered for me i sorta have to buy them! decisions decisions haha

hey people, thought id hop onto this whopper thread too! my eyes are literally stinging after reading it all! haha that and its 2:30am haha i just got a red & black 83 DR30 RS Coupe. mods wise it has strut brace, greddy boost relief valve, 15" watanabe's, KYB shocks and super low springs of some sort (specialy at the back haha), cat-back exhaust with huuuuge muffler (5.25" tip lol), and small Trust FMIC kit (with like 1m of piping to the inlet too haha 80s a/m stuff). oh and optional front rubber lip =] ive had it a couple of weeks, and already got about 5000$ worth of spending planned haha big fuel pump, hybrid cooler & custom piping, some minor rust fixing and bodywork & new seals everywhere,& new rear shocks! has 219rwhp as is on 0.9bar, but hoping will realy benefit from pump and bigger cooler (With much shorter inlet piping) this is a good thread, got some interesting stuff from it. not much on shockies though, coz im wondering what to change mine to (thinking i stick with KYB but get some AGX adjustables?? not sure) neway, il keep adding wat i can! haha