thatlbeme

Pays to be honest about your mods, get them all listed so as not to give the insurance company of your choice any grounds to dismiss your claim if the need arrises. In my case it jacked up the premium by a hundred or so dollars but the feeling of not having to stress over if they will honor the payout if needed is invaluable.

Just wanted to add 1 more to the list, Like the R33, the new R34 GT-R V-Spec (Victory Specification) models come equipped with the ATTESA E-TS Pro system and an Active LSD at the rear, while standard GT-R models come with the non-Pro system and a conventional mechanical differential.

Think I can rule out the driveshaft splines as per the test of foot on brake and quickly let the clutch partially out in both forward and reverse. No noticable sounds. thanks to the volvo forum for the test as per pasted below "its either the driveshaft splines or the dual mass flywheel, its not unusual for the flywheel to make that kind of noise as it does move back and forth about 25 mm or so witha change in load . To check the drive shafts press the footbeake on and select 1st then Reverse and let the clutch up partialy fairly firmly to put a sharp load through the transmission ( without moving of course as you have the brakes on . do reverse then 1st to reverse the load , if it clicks the first time you say go forward but not the second time without going into R , then its just the driveshaft splines . If the noise is light when going on and off the throttle at low speed then it's probably the dual mass flywheel ... Neither is a bad problem ..."

Can rule out the transmission bracket and cv joints. The noise is almost certainly forward of the gear lever and it might be just to the passenger side of centre. I will read up on how the front driveshaft works as I don't think it is the rear driveshaft/diff from where the noise is. Thanks to the poster that explained how to check the cv joints in another thread.

putting in search for driveshaft bearings has given me a heap more reading to do so thanks, gearbox mount is something that has come up so will need to have a look at that, of to work now but will investigate more tomorrow.

Thanks for that, I will have a seach for how to fix it, but if its ok to ask is it a big job and something that could be done at home. thanks Ian

Hi all, not sure if there is a problem and I am going to get a mechanic to have a look when it gets a service done, but I just wanted to have some idea what might be wrong when I talk to him about it. Its a GTR and the clunking can be heard when I feather the accellerator on and off, just enough to get the car lurching foward and the clunking sound seems to come from somewhere around the front of the gearbox and only makes the noise when in traffic etc and not when the car is accerating smoothly through the gears. I have checked the engine mounts and gone over everything that I thought might be causing it by jacking the front end up and shaking any moving parts but everything seemed ok. It have a heavy duty double plated clutch that rattles and caries on like they do but I don't think thats the problem. If I had to have a guess I would say where the engine joins the gearbox there seems to be something loose or worn there and there is excesive play . Any thoughts would be appreciated especially if it could be the heavy duty clutch and I might not have a problem at all. Thanks Ian

Had a look at my rego papers and its got SKYE99A as the Model, its probably your best bet to get the VIN number and ask the guys on here to run a check as that will definately tell you the info you need.

Hi levizzle, I was in a similar situation recently and I came across a diagram of the lines that someone colored in to make some sense of it all. I found that a compressor was great for tracking where the lines go as you can see from the diagram that they go from one side of the engine to the other side via around the back of the engine. The lines are a combination of rubber tubing and steel piping and as you have already found out are very hard to see under all the other stuff. Your setup was different to mine as my boost control valve was setup on the other side of the engine and my pressure control solenoid was removed with the 2 lines plugged off. It looks like your pressure control solenoid is still there just on the engine side of your boost control valve which is a bit puzzling as they are usually disconnected when a boost controller is installed. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful and let you know what you needed to do as I am not confident enough to say do this or do that in case I get it wrong. Cheers Ian.

Might be worth getting the vin BNR34003026 checked on that car as it doesn't look like a genuine v spec and non v spec models usually sell for 4 to 5 thousand cheaper than v spec models. Alsp that vin number would suggest its an early 99 model and not a 2000 model. The guys would be able to confirm it on the "vins you want fasted" thread. If it turns out to be a v spec then the rear and front diffusers are missing and it definately has a non v spec speedo installed. All good negotiating points to try and get it a bit cheaper if that is the one he likes. cheers.

EVC installed and setup and it has overcome the problems the soft actuators were causing. Set it fot 1 bar boost and there isn't any spiking (EVC is as close to the actuators as possible) or more importantly for me any turbo creep. I am very impressed with the HKS EVC 4 even though its an older model it is working flawlessly and would definately recommend a HKS EVC for anyone who was having boost problems similiar to what I was having. Edit, forgot to mention that the turbo's spool up much more quickly with the EVC than compared to just using the actuators. It hits full boost (1 bar) at about 4000rpm compared to .4 bar boost at about 3500rpm when the soft actuators were spoiling the party.

Took the opportunity to test the actuators today while I was poking around in there hooking up the EVC, was certain that one of the actuators would show up with a shot spring but to my surprise they both started to open the wastegates at the same pressure. Can't work out whats going on cause I would be very surprised if 6psi (give or take 1psi) is the stock spring rates for r34's. Unless they use a low actuator spring setting to have an extra low boost level when the ECU detects a problem, and have the solenoids make up the extra. Or someone in Japan previously replaced the stock actuators with softer spring ones, but can't see what the advantage of doing that would be although they do some funny things over there. They put on adjustable coilovers and actually used them to raise the car up about 1 inch, and replaced all the engine bay nut washers with white plastic ones and I am still trying to work out what the fluo light under the dash was going to achieve.

Might have to give the actuators some attention. If the posts I found with similiar problems with the boost creeping up in higher revs are correct then the wastegate valves are not opening enough to let the pressure out. If I had adjustable actuators (havn't got a clue what is on there yet) and they were adjusted to open at a lower rate would that adjustment also limit how far the gates actually opened, or is it the other way around.

Thanks for the reply Jonno, I am thinking the .4 bar to .6 bar is just turbo creep. As it goes very quickly to .4 bar and then holds untill revs get up to about 5000 5500rpm and then slowly works up to .6 by the time it relines. Not sure if the turbo creep will be a problem when the EVC is hooked up or is that one of the things that the EVC or turbotech valves will fix..

Hi all, just trying to get an understanding of how things work. On the bnr34 engine the boost controll solenoid is disconected due to the previous owner having installed a HKS EVC 4 controller. The HKS EVC was disconnected when it went through compliance. As there is nothing to limit the pressure on the actuators they start to open at .4 bar and the maximum turbo boost the motor can get is around .6 bar. It goes straight to .4 bar at 3500 rpm and then seems to creep to .6 bar by the time it redlines. I will be installing the HKS EVC 4 back onto the car to ge able to control the boost but was wanting to make sure the actuators didn't need some attention. So is that normal for the actuators to start opening at just .4 bar and if not can they be adjusted. If they need to be replaced are the HKS actuators very hard to install. And will the HKS EVC 4 work fine with the actuators as they currently are. Thanks Ian

If the 2 solenoid lines were simply capped off and not joined together what boost pressure would the r33 gtr get, and what would be controlling the upper boost level. Thanks

Might be worth keeping an eye on the import shops as they usually list the cars that they have currently in transit. If one looks ok they will let you put a fully refundable holding deposit on it pending an inspection by yourself and a mechanic. Best part is if you like it then its yours but if you don't then just say its not good enough and you get your deposit back. Just make sure you get it worded that way when you put the deposit down. Good luck with your search and like they said above just be patient.

There seems to be some conflicting information as to the first r34 gtr, this website http://www.japanesesportcars.com/skyline/history/years_serial.php says that there were 510 produced at the end of 1998. I put the first vin bnr34 000051 into the Fast program and it came back as January 99 so it seems the website got it wrong.

Sourced.