Bren81

I was thinking about some sort of protection for them. I would prefer to avoid clear coat and have found references to "wheel wax" that protect raw alloy wheels. I think I will give that a try forst. The car also only does <1000kms a year, always garaged, etc so I am hoping this wheel wax stuff will suit.

Last update. Finally got around to replacing a couple of bolts that snapped when I pulled apart the wheel, fitted, balanced, etc. Really happy with how this one has turned out, but I am going to get the test polished professionally. Not worth the time or effort to do it myself. I reckon I spent 40hours on this wheel.

I finally finished the first wheel today. I am really happy with how it looks but I am going to look at getting someone else to do the rest of them. Wasn't too hard just took a huge amount of time. Still missing a few bolts that snapped when I took them out.

I have finished one of the wheels. It looks good but I am not happy with the centre. I have decided to go all out of the next wheel. I was thinking about getting the centre electrplated (either chrome or a satin finish) but first I am going to try polishing it myself. I completely dissasembled the wheel this time. Used paint stripper on the centre then polished up a section to see how it would look, I think I am going to be able to get it to a level I am happy with. If I cant I will look at getting the centres painted or electroplated. Pics... First wheel finished. (centre is still painted, hosed it down to see how the raw alloy would look after the water dried) 2nd Wheel pulled apart. Test polishing the centre after stripping paint. (was only a quick sand and polish, should look better when I spend more time on it)

Small update of what I got done tonight. I tried removing 2 bolts at a time but it wasnt working very well, I let all the air out then took out 4-5 bolts at a time. Screwed around for hours before I worked out a quickish way to do it. Takes about 45nm of torque to undo the bolts so I am tightening them back up to 40nm because I figure it takes a bit extra to crack the bolt. I have decided I will get them rebalanced and checked when I am finished just to be safe. Cleaned loose crap off with Shellite, then cleaned off the chunky corrosion with a tiny steel brush dremel attachment by hand (not in the dremel) then polished by hand the remaining scuff and marks etc with the metal polish. Cleaned up the head of the bolts with a polishing attachment in the dremel with metal polish. It is going to take forever (took 5 hours to do about a third of the wheel) but I am really happy with the result. Before After The wheel so far.

Thanks Guys, I am going to pull the wheel off the car tonight, sitting hunched over on cold concrete for 3 hours last night killed my back. I will try with the dremel with the bolts still in first but I think it is going to be harder than removing a bolt or 2 at a time then cleaning/polishing by hand. I will post up pics when I am done. Trex - To get them to the stage they are now I have just used Autosol Metal Polish with a tennis ball wrapped in a microfibre cloth, the tennis ball made it easy to do the dish part of the wheel. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Autosol-Polish-Metal-350g.aspx?pid=345178#Recommendations However, my wheel are raw alloy, no clear coat or anything. From the reading I have done online, clear coat on some wheels is really hard to cut and polish but it can be done. For the painted middle section I have used Meguires Ultimate Compound. It is awesome stuff, cleaned up and and removed really deep scratches in the paint on my Patrol. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Meguiar-s-Ultimate-Compound-450mL.aspx?pid=214309#Recommendations I will check out the polishing BBS RS videos tonight. Cheers.

Hi everyone. I searched but couldn't find anything similar to my problem. I am trying to clean years of grim, water marks and light corrosion off my wheels. They are Enkei Winsome 3 piece wheels and have a lot of bolts that I am having trouble cleaning around. I have successfully used some metal polish to clean the dish part of the wheel and using a clay block and paint cleaner on the painted middle section of the wheels, but I am struggling to clean the water marks/corrosion around the bolts. Has anyone got any tips? I was thinking about removing 1 bolt at a time and cleaning that spot, replace bolt and repeat. Is this safe? Should I get the wheels re-balanced after I do this? What torque for the bolts? Am I making this more complicated than it needs to be? Here a a few pics (I hope this works) Corrosion/Water Marks around bolts Wheels before cleaning Wheel now.

Tried to send you a PM but it says you cant receive any more. I am considering selling my R32 GTR and I think it may be the sort of car you are after. I will just give you the basic info (off the top of my head) for now and if it sounds like what you are after let me know and I can give you all the info I have an go from there. 1991 model, imported around 7 years ago. 121000kms (I believe they are original). Was gun metal grey but was resprayed factory white in Japan for some reason. Enkei wheels 17x10.5, N1 kit, kakimoto (sp?) exhaust, pod filters, Sydney Kid suspension, Strut braces, nistune daughterboard running 244kw (got dyno sheet), always serviced with Motul Chono 300V, all standard inside (bubbles in dash, not too bad). As far as I can work out it has never been in an accident etc. I can not find a single spot of rust. Always garaged etc. I can send you the pre purchase inspection from when I bought it if you like. Has a fair few stone chips at front but other than that it is in really good condition. Anyway, let me know if you want some more details and I will let you know. If your interested PM me your email address I can send photos pre purchase inspection etc.

ITEM: 1991 R32 GTR Skyline PRICE AND PRICE CONDITIONS: $15,000 no RWC (shouldn't need much/anything) Rego until April 14 (I have lost the rego sticker, but you can check it on Vic Roads website) CONDITION AND ODOMETER READING: 121,000. Good Condition I bought this car in January 2011. Since then it has only done about 6000kms and always been garaged. The Good Overall it is in very good condition. I can not find any rust in the car. It has: N1 Body Kit Kakimoto Exhaust Blitz Boost Controller running .9 Bar Sydney Kid bilstein suspension setup Enkei "Win" Wheels 17x10.5 with near new 245's Tomei Strut brace Pod Filters Piggyback computer (I think it is a Nistune, but I really cant remember?) 242rwkw's (I have a dyno sheet to prove it somewhere, probably with the rego sticker) Tinted Windows Aluminium radiator Stealth 2wd switch (uses the original stereo control buttons on the dash) Since I have had it I have replaced the crappy aftermarket drivers seat, steering wheel, handbrake boot, gearstick knob, rear GTR badge, stereo surround with an original parts (new where possible), I am sure there is more that I have forgotten, I will add anything else I think of The Bad There are quite a few stone chips on the front of the car. The rear wing has a crack in the rear side of it. A couple of little scratches. Could do with a cut back and re-wax, it has been under a car cover (inside the garage) that has rubbed little patches of wax off. There are some holes in the dash from where someone decided to mount a boost gauge that I later removed Wheels are missing centre caps Couple of bubbles in the dash Car was resprayed R32 white in Japan (Was originally gun metal grey, I dont know why you would paint it factory white. I believe the paint code is #326) Due for a service REASON FOR SELLING: I have 3 cars and nowhere to keep them all, plus I rarely drive the GTR. EXTRA INFO: I am trying to be as honest as possible with this sale. The car is at my ex-gf's house and the last thing I want to do is have to go around there to show someone the car when they are not REALLY interested - Serious buyers only please, no test pilots etc. Feel free to ask as many questions as you want. I can email a copy of the inspection I had done on the car by State Roads before I bought the car. If the buyer wants they can have the drivers seat I removed with seat rails and the very stiff Apexi coilovers I replaced with the SK setup. Also have 6litres of Motul Chrono 300V for the service it is due I will throw in LOCATION: Mooroolbark VIC CONTACT: Brendan - TXT or Call 0433-499-536 After hours or just leave a message. PICTURES: Sorry about how dark some of the photos are. They were taken in the garage.)

Ive got a Momo steering wheel and boss kit that I dont need as I have gone back to the standard steering wheel. This came off my 1990 GTR and worked fine with the HICAS, no errors or anything. You may want to replace the hex head screws that hold the wheel onto the boss kit as they got a little rounded trying to remove it. I have no idea what is worth?? Say $150 +post. Pickup (if required) is from Mooroolbark VIC (after hours) PM me or SMS 0433-499-536 Pics

Spotted 2 GTR's today Very nice looking blue 32 GTR in Emerald, number plates were BLUE32 or similar Dark coloured (didnt get a good look because I was trying to overtake at the time) R33 GTR in Ferntree Gully

I think im going to look at replacing them with something else. Its probly going to cost around the same to get them rebuilt with new springs as it will to get a new set of BC Racing coilovers and then I get damper adjustablity too. I know the BC's arnt the best quality, but for the driving and km's I do, I think they will be fine.

Hi, I bought a R32 GTR about 5 months ago, it not a daily driver, but when I do drive it the suspension drives me insane. Im pretty sure that the coilovers I have are flogged out, the front end tends to bounce though bumpy corners (not fun!!!). I have the alignment specs from the previous owner and I cant see anything that could cause issues. The other thing that annoys me is that I think the suspension is way too stiff. Im not sure whether I should look at rebuilding them and getting new softer springs or just replace them. I cant seem to find any information on the net about the coilovers in my car, but I suspect that they are very old. The part number suggests that they are for a non-GTR, is this an issue? Any advise/opinions on what I should do would be great. Specs stamped on rear passenger side coilover: DDN19-12511 HCR32-R 93E TEIN There is also a sticker but thanks to google, Im pretty sure it is just a Japanese tuning shop "Signal Auto Senri" If you dont think I should rebuild them, any suggestions on what to replace them with would be great. The lowest off the self spring rates I can find on new coilovers are 8/6kg (F/R). I think the standard GTR spring rates were around 4/3(??) I "think" I would like something stiffer than standard, but still comfortable enough to drive on our crappy roads for a few hours without needing a neck brace. Street driven only, no drag or track work (for now). I can put up a pic if it helps. Cheers, Brendan

Hi, Got a few extra bits I have taken off my GTR. I dont really know what this stuff is worth, so if Im asking too much, say so. Drivers seat, with after market rails. Came out of R32 GTR, would imagine it would fit in a normal R32 and maybe R33. Dont know what brand the seat is sorry. $100 Pick up only HKS Turbo timer with plug in wiring. Came out of R32 GTR, I think it should work in a normal R32 and maybe others. Dont need to cut any wires, just plug and play. $65 Pick up OR $70 via Express Post No name brand turbo timer. Had this sitting around for years, never been used, cant remeber anything about it. $45 Pick Up or $50 via Express Post Pick up is from Mooroolbark Vic Any questions just ask.

Thanks Rekin.

Sorry for the stupid question, but where does Trent work? Im a Skyline newb and have just discovered that my ECU has a nistune board in it. Cheers.

Ive just read through this whole thread and I think it has helped me find the prob with my aircon. Im getting a reading of -30degrees on the evap temp sensor. I have read that you have to pull the whole dash out to get the evaporator out, but does anyone know if you can get to the sensor without pulling the whole dash out? I also found this on another site while looking for info. It has the same info as listed in this thread but it also has the error codes for the motor door check section of diag mode (highlighted in red). I cant remember seeing this info in this thread. Hope it helps someone ------------------------------------------------------------------- "Climate Control Diagnostics R32 and R33 The climate control has a diagnostic mode. Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on. Sensor check Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen. If normal, a "20" is displayed. If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows: 20 - all is normal 21 - outside air sensor 22 - Inside air sensor 23 - Water temperature sensor 24 - Intake temperature sensor 25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen) 26 - PBR 27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty. Mode door position check (This is probably not the cause of your problems but it is a nifty self check to play with). While in Sensor check, depress the HOT button again. This will operate the the mode door actuator, and checks the whether the position detection switch is operating. Again the results are displayed on the display. If normal, a "30" is displayed. If abnormal the number of the faulty mode is displayed as follows: 30: Normal 31: VENT 32: B/L (Bi level) 34: FOOT 35: DEFROST/FOOT 36: DEFROST Actuator operation check By pressing the HOT button while in Mode Door Position check, you can actually send a signal to check the operation of the actuator manually. This is a bit complex, and will be expanded upon when a manual can viewed. Sensor recognition check Press the HOT switch again and a "5" will be indicated in the display section. If you press the "AMB" button (R32) or the windscreen defroster button (R33) in this status, the display will show the temperature sensed by each sensor. This will give you an indication also of which (if any) are faulty. Temperatures will be displayed in the following order (R32): 5 -> Outside air temp -> Inside air temp -> Suction temp -> Refrigerant temp R33 seems to have a different selection, with three temperatures being displayed. Obviously if any of these temps seem excessively different from actual temperatures you have a problem! Calibration If you depress the fan switch during the Sensor Recognition check, you will go to Calibration in which you can set the difference between the indicated temperature and sensed temperature. While in Calibration press the HOT or COLD buttons to change the display by plus or minus 3 degrees in .5 degree increments (R32) or 1 degree increments (R33). "

Just put a deposit down today, picking it up next week 1991 R32 GTR. Almost standard. Lowered, pod filters, exhaust, wheels and aftermarket seat (that I will probably swap fo a standard GTR seat) Anyone tell me what model wheels they are (apparently they are Enkei's), I have been searching the net but havn't found them yet. Pics

Thanks Psymon, just comes up with lots of pages of Japanese. Bis-e Bee - That VIN doesn't work in my version of FAST, but I think my data might be fairly old and may not have stags in it. Either that or Im doing something wrong. Im new to all this.

Hope this works...... Can anyone point me in the right direction for working out the options from the model number, The R32 Im looking at has this model number KBNR32RXFSLMZG

Thanks SKYLINE, your info was very helpful, I read another thread during my searching about height and someone that was around my height who has owned a few different skylines said that the R32 GTR was the most comfortable to fit in. Looking forward to starting the search for my new toy in the new year. Cheers, Brendan

Thanks Basti, My main question is about the price of R32 GTR's, most people seem to be trying to sell them for $18,000-$20,000, but I have noticed that alot of the GTR's on here have been listed for months, is this because the sellers are dreaming about the price or is it that they are not a particularly popular car and just dont sell quick? Other silly questions I have I can probably search for, but one important one (to me) is, I have never even sat in a R32 and I am quite tall 6'3 and all legs. Will I comfortably fit in a R32 or were they designed for little Japanese people? Last Q (for now ) is about the KM's GTR's for sale have done, most seem to have done around 100,000kms, this to me seems extremely low for a 20ish year old car, why? Do 99% of the clocks get wound back before they are shipped to Aus? Do people just not drive them much (If so why? Are they not a nice car to drive?) Cheers, Brendan

Gday, Ive been looking through the site for a couple of days and thought I should sign up, so here I am. Ive wanted a Skyline GTR for a long as I can remember and have finally got myself in the financial position that I am happy to spend the money on one. I have an strange love for Nissan straight 6's, previously owned 2 VL comondores (1x N/A, 1x Moded Turbo) and currently have a Patrol with a big pile of slow reving junk they called TB42, Also have a Long wheel base Suzuki Sierra with more non-standard that standard parts in it. I have been looking through all the forum categories but havn't figured out where I can make a new thread with very specific (anal) questions I have about R32 GTR's, can someone tell me where to post, or will I get told to search for hours like some other forums (I dont have a problem with either option). Cheers, Brendan