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i need a automatic bellhousing for a transmission swap i have planned. i am located in USA so if anyone can help i will pay thank you.

Yup exactly. I have the exhaust side drain going to the sump. If you think that's useless ill just block that off and run 2 bungs on the other side of the sump and run both of them to the catch can breather and a drain. My one question though now is what about any actual blow by the can collects? Now it's just going to be mixed with the oil. Isn't that bad?

how did you guys go about adding a port to the engine block? i already welded one bung on the oil pan for the front head drain, is there a way to drill a hole in the block to add a breather? then run a line to the catch can? i checked compression cold today and it was 125 across all 6 im on 8.5 cr pistons

two restrictors. 1.5mm the oil is a conventional mineral base oil. i will agree i think the catch can is too small. i will look into making a bigger one with dual breather vents. no oil drains were drilled out. im confused as to why the rb25 never had a problem with this, why does the rb25/30 have this issue?

Hey everyone. I know theres a lot of info on this site but im having a hard timing finding some solid answers to my issue. and i figured i would also take this time to show off some of my build i have been working on this winter. Heres a rundown and whats happeneing. This motor has been properly broken in, runs beautifuly, and pulls like a bat out of hell. With that said though i think theres some oiling issue going on. I attended a drift event last weekend and after some high rpm beatings i noticed my catch can being full of oil. not blow by, but regular oil. on normal crusiing, and quick WOT pulls to the 7k rev limit i barely have any condensation or milkly blow by in the can. i'll post some pictures of my setup and a list of what i used in this build to give everyone the info. But i think what my conclusions are telling me is that this motor is still being given too much oil and not draining properly. setup includes. rb30 block and crank fully balanced rotating assembly with crank collar fix Nismo N1 oil pump acl bearings, manley rods cp 8.5-1 pistons tomei 1.5mm oil restrictors in block all ring gap was measured a million times, rings were oriented correctly. RB25det head stock hydro lifters supertech head kit, springs, 1mm oversize valves, titanium retainers tomei rb20 cams 260 8.8mm lift tomei cam gears degreed to spec cometic MLS headgasket spool head drain located on back on head going into a tee fitting for the turbo oil drain -10 an line relocated the stock rb25 front head drain to a welded on bung on oil pan NO VCT running a greddy oil filter sandwich plate with -10 an lines to a oil cooler. oil catch can is two -8an lines running off stock rb25 cam cover holes to a can with breather filter on top. i guess im just not sure if this pump is just too much? or my drains are not flowing correctly? this pump sees about a 30 psi at idle at 180 deg F oil temps, close to 100 psi at 5k. ive been consdering putting a RB25 pump back in, im just not sure where to go from here if anyone has any suggestions i am all ears! the motor ran so well but im afraid to put any absuse on it till this issue is cleared up. i figured with the restrictions and the rear head drain i wouldn't have any problem but like i said my oil catch can was almost full of straight oil after about 5 runs drifting. right now i am just running castrol gtx 5-30w conventional oil. some pics of the setup so everyone can see

fenders are pretty much done, since i have been doing a new turbo set up im in the process of making everything work again. motors in for mock up of intercooler pipes, exhaust manifold, downpipe etc. im fitting the new front end and making supports for everything heres a pic of it.

lol sorry i live in the USA thats exaclty why im getting it. not cause it "looks cool" ..... 6 boost is harder to find over here. i get a lot of my parts for my RB over there they are a good place to deal with.

17x9 0 offset wheels up front, added steering angle modifications for drifting, and the car is squatted pretty low. tires will rub parts of the stock fender wells. thats why

its a .82. i got some overtime in work so im just going with the raw brokerage manifold. i would like to get the best spool time out of this turbo as i can. and stop with the 3076 comments. im not going to switch to it, if you guys like it thats fine but i already have the 35r. heres a link to the manifold. the only thing i am considering doing if its going to be to my benefit is getting the t4 twin scroll ex housing instead of the t3 open that is currently on it.. http://rawbrokerage.com/Raw-Brokerage-Pro-Turbo-Manifold-RB20-RB25-RB26-raw-exman-rb.htm

recently tubbed the front fenders of my 240sx. while i did buy premade trailer fenders i pretty much cut them all up and made it work the best it could. also am changing up the front radiator support since i have a rb25 in this car its a little short on space to run a clutch fan, the car does see drift events so it would be nice to run one. i moved the radiator about 2 inches forward and am currently working on bracing it all up better. so take note the front support is NOT finished. i'll take any comments for things i could improve on, thanks guys!

well the other thing is i can/have fabricated everything on the car i don;t care if i have to tweak a down pipe later on. and i also can modify the stock manifold for the price of the wastegate flange and pipe for it. but idk everyone is raving about aftermarket manifold i'll see what i can find, 6 boost seems hard to find in the US

^^ thank you best reply so far. i guess people are missing the point. its not that i cant afford the 6 boost or a better tublar manifold i was asking which was better. i know the 35r is gonna be a dog, but its gonna be better than the stock turbo. my set up is going to be tuned with nistune and im not building the motor yet. i have too much other stuff to do to the car this year so its just not in the budget. its not like this is going to be the permanent set up just wondering which would be the best way to go about it at the moment.

well heres the other thing. i also have one of those manifolds that i've seen like 10 different companys names on but its really just a cheap ss tublar manifold with a t3 flange and a bottom mount 38mm tial wg flange. prob is like most turbos the clearance isn;t so well. the compressor cover hits the valve cover just slightly. but im unsure about how anyone has modified it to work. it also seems that the turbo sits very high and im worried about hood clearance... if i absolutely have to i will go with the rawbrokerage manifold that just came out.

i see a lot of people on here are running the stock cast exhaust manifold with a external wastegate welded on. im about to go that route but i was wondering at what power will this start to hold me back. my set up is going to be a stock internal rb25 with a gt3582r 740cc injectors and nistune. i would like to make between 400-450whp just making sure that will be possible with that manifold. i have a greddy intake manifold q45 tb. 3.5 inch straight pipe exhaust. my motor is in very good shape, great compression, everything has been inspected and it has been run for a year with the stock setup and made great power on the stock turbo but its time to upgrade. i don;t think its really necessary for me to go with a tublar manifold untill i build the motor and look to squeeze more power out of it. but since it is only in a tiny s13 400 is going to be a lot. looking to run probably around 16psi on the turbo, if i have to i may put a set of some less aggressive cams in or get my stock ones reground. any ideas people have for me feel free to throw out. i undertstand the gt35r is probably a little overkill for my power goals. but i got it for a great price and i would like to have the room to grow in the future. thanks for looking and for any help!

hey guys, decided to finally sign up after lurking on here for awhile. seems to be the best rb info i have found on this site. Since im going to be doing more work to my rb25 i figured id stop by for some ideas. i drive a 1990 nissan 240sx hatchback with a series 2 rb25det, i did all my own work on this thing from building the engine mounts, to fabricating the full exhaust system, wiring, everything. car is primarly a street car but it did see some track time this past year at some local drift events. it was pretty much a bone stock swap but that is about to change this winter. plans are to do a gasket refresh and go with a gt3582r, just ordered that and some deatchworks 740cc injectors. im going to probably try out the new haltech pro plug n play system for the r33 rb25. next year its going to see a a new origin/version select aero, tubed front fenders, tube chasis front end to move the radiator further up to run a clutch fan due to cooling issues. which leads me to my first question. i need a oem fan shroud! anyone know where i can get one?? i'll prob post some pics from my build over the winter up here so you guys can check out the progress. heres a video from it last year. i put it on the dyno before i ripped it all apart. it made 289whp and 241 lb/tq on 12psi UNTUNED stock ecu. greddy intake manifold, q45 rb. 3.5 inch straight pipe exhaust. thats about it. motor is MINT i just started doing a tear down and it looks amazing inside. the car is currently in pieces and is undergoing a huge change for next year. i'll probably post or link to my build thread on other forums. hope to learn something here!