hy_rpm

It's lost a fair chunk of power till 4000rpm after that's it takes over Are you going to try out twin high flow configuration ?

Hey can i run a car that's using nistune with the virtual mustang dyno ? If so how do I do it just download it for my laptop I already have a cable and nistune and wideband Thanks

Just remember that's in third gear Most dyno runs are in 4th will be maybe 3800rpm in 4th

can I secure 2 spots I'll pay on the day Missed the last one can't miss this one Went last year and had epic skids

Yeah same thing with the Datto but was good prior the check up when first tuned but after it was clogged bad Shit design and filtration and clog easily Even the cheap 3a racing or saas ones at autobahn flow good

Also did you even fix the exhaust restriction you had posted earlier and get the tune touched up As you said they had to retard the timing a fair bit Plus I seen in your engine bay pics are you still running one of those blitz metal type pod filters ? As when I got my car tuned 2 months ago I was speaking to mark at Unigroup and he was telling me those metal mesh type pod filters are rubbish He had a sr20 Datto there that was making 270kw last tuned but barely made 230kw Changed the air filter and bang back up to 270kw nothing else touched They may look like they flow well being ss mesh but he said they are crap Who would think a filter would make 40kw difference

The problem isn't from the bov It's reversion/surge from the turbo as it's a much larger turbo than std It only needs to flow alil air back on the afm and it's will effect it Compared to a std turbo and and ribbed std rubber intake Why bother starting this thread and asking for people's suggestions when clearly you ain't going to listen to them and try it out Best to just take it to a tuner/good mechanic to sort it out

Depending if it's overfuelling or under fueling when starting Might be injectors leaking or cranking enrichment in tune once warm needing touch up but these are only guesses Need to get the car properly diagnosed

How so interesting ? That pic is how it should be done if the pickup at the rear is no good Which is most of the time Why don't you just get a proper mechanic to check you cam timing and set the base timing I'm sure Unigroup wouldn't charge you more than $100 to set it and check it As it has already took you how long and to set it and still it's not right $100 is worth the less headache and unreliable grenade engine if it's taken on the track and pinging hard

No you can get to the crank pulley bolt from underneath the shroud Maybe you should take the top timing cover off and put the crank on tdc mark and take a photo of where your cam pulleys are at

That's why it specifically says in the nissan manual or under the bonnet to set base timing Once warm and at idle speed of 750rpm +or- 50rpm

Yes try holding a timing light at the crank and watch the difference between 800rpm and slowly winding out the iacv to 1200rpm Will be about 5degrees

Yeah but as the engine speed gets faster The spark has to get fired earlier to combust at the right time until there is boost and it will decrease back

That would explain why the timing is going up 5 degrees when the tps is disconnected As when the idle is higher the timing is advanced more So you have to either drop the idle to 750rpm then set base timing to 15degrees or match whatever the cell the ecu is using If you can't get something as simple as that right just take it back to Unigroup Tell him you changed the belt and need to reset the cas base timing

Might of skipped a few pages and didn't read it But did he indeed check the crank pulley ? My bet is his idle speed was too high when he checked the base timing

Also if you idle speed is too high it will show you slightly higher timing figure on the crank pulley Did you make sure your idles speed was at 750rpm or what's is specified for that engine before you checked the base timing?

One thing to check maybe your harmonic balancer has slightly twisted as it's old and worn and not showing you the true timing marks Check by removing no 1 plug and put in a piece of wire or skinny screwdriver and slowly turn the crank by hand till that piston has completely reached the top and compare it to you crank pulley marks If it is indeed out you need a new crank pulley or if not change it back to 15degrees But the base timing does indeed affect the tune only with power fc or nistune not standalone ecus but So if you say Unigroup did indeed tune you car with your cas in the position it is now at 20degrees and you retard it back to 15degrees It will indeed drive like crap and the whole map will be retarded by 5degress Usually they check the base timing before they start tuning you should fix the base timing back and get them to fix the tune Better than just waiting for it to grenade and hoping for the best

Unigroup can order the ecu for you If you want a full standalone they have been dealing abit with black box ecus lately

That's when you have to set the base timing Once warm and what ever the power fc is showing the timing should be the same at the crank as the tuner told you so it synchronized With the ecu Otherwise the tuner will be inputting 15degrees or whatever in the ecu to tell it spark then but Infact the spark will be firing at 20degrees or whatever the base timing is set off

Yeah but it's not thru all 4 wheels only 2 rwd dyno only You would lose abit of power from the fr wheels

Nah that's about right I seen a r32 gtr with just catback dynoed at Unigroup back awhile ago made 250rwkw on rwd dyno std computer And I was struggling to make 230rwkw on my sr20 cams turbo injector afm tune 6cylinders especially gtr make power very easy

If a fuel reg is bad or fuel related problem on a skyline not holding pressure There is the pulsation damper on the fuel rail to check Turn it off and check how far the screw on the damper is sticking out and leave it overnight Check if it has gone in and moved if so the fuel pressure is leaking if not all good You were complaining about the fuel economy and the tuner has already told you the o2 is getting lazy If a bad o2 was stuck too lean every time in closed loop it would try to dump fuel in to try to make the mixtures right Check if your o2 signal is fluctuating when warm Should be swinging high and low every second Also with the intake I would try to modify the existing one as moving the afm further or closer to the turbo will affect the tune And your std bov may not be flowing enough air for that turbo so it will still suffer from reversion and the std bov will leak

Now I'm using a apexi intake and plumback bov still z32 afm Fuel economy has gone up from 15l100km to 14l100km on e85 but And the flooding I'm yet to test at the drags/drift day

Like I said before have a look in converting the afm to a r35gtr unit it has been done with nistune so best to ask them for a map and to see if it's possible to program into PFC As it's shielded from the reversion and is only mounted and works one way facing the air incoming so it suffers less from reversion than the z32 afm Or just make a new intake and run your plumback bov which will work out cheaper I was suffering bad from reversion in my 180sx with no bov metal intake to the point at the drags doing the burnout on and off the throttle it flooded the engine and stalled when I first cranked the engine felt like it was locked up with fuel also use to stall at drift days on and off Also that was with a low mount t2 frame turbo so I would say with a precision turbo it will be amplified Solving the reversion and new o2 sensor should get back abit of your economy if not make it the best it can be As your on and off the throttle every time you drive so the reversion will be happening constantly Remember you can't compare your fuel economy to a std car pushing the boost and power your at

Twin atr28ss2 stuffed in std housing for big power and decent response or even atr28ss1.5 stuffed in std housing will make wicked response but still decent power I reckon close to 400kw on e85