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I got the following as of today. KU31 - $175 DZ101 - $240 SS595 - $185 HPZ - $280 I am leaning towards the 595 or the Ku31... Since treadwear is similar, I am wondering what the noise is like. The 595 seems quite aggressive.. maybe a little noisy.. maybe I am getting old Which one would be better in the wet. thanks

thanks I have front and rear camber kits installed. Where do you find the treadwear ratings. I could not see them on the manufacturer websites

Thanks. What is the wear rate on them. cheers

Sorry guys, Need tyres for the Rear of an R33, 255/40/17 and am on a tight budget I have been searched the forums and selected some tyres and called heaps of places around sydney. Am down to 4 tyres. Most preferred to least. Khumo KU31 spt Dunlop Direzza DZ101 Federal 595 GT Radial HPZ I have KU31's up in the front and they are quite reasonable. I am looking at the Ku31s or the Dunlops. I am not sure on the treadwear on these tyres. Every tells me a different story. Maybe they are just trying to offload their stock. Are the KU31's too soft for the rears. How do the Dunlops compare ? Will they last. My care is fairly stock. thanks heaps..

Autometer Pro-Comp Liquid Filled Boost Gauge I originally bought this new. This unit is made in USA, extremely accurate, in excellent working condition with no scratches on the display. I removed it from my previous vehicle and have no need for it anymore. This is a top of the line Auto Meter Liquid Filled Full Sweep Pro Comp 2 5/8 inch Boost/ Vacuum gauge which reads in 30 inches HG / 20 PSI. • Has a black face with white digits and a silver finish bezel • Size of the Pro-Comp Liquid filled mechanical boost gauge is 2-5/8 (66.7mm) • Has a range of 30" Hg/20 PSI • Contains a rugged air core meter movement • Allows some adjustment of the reading to suit different environments. Comes with some nylon vacuum tubing,fittings and original instructions. I have included a silver cup and brackets to ease installation, which normally needs to be purchased separately. Price: $70 + shipping Pickup available from Ultimo/Liverpool, Sydney Please PM me or call me on 0412435107 Thanks

Sold!! Thanks for viewing

BlitZ Dual-SBC Spec R Boost Controller This is a brand new unit, never used and comes in a complete kit. It was purchased by me locally but I never got around to using it and am now selling my car as well. This is one of the best units on the market and if you know anything about this unit, I shouldn’t have to explain any further but for others, keep reading. Features include: • Dual solenoid design (The Spec R utilizes a dual solenoid design, for more precise control, faster response and ability to hold boost up to 36psi) • Built-in boost gauge ( Employs a high precision pressure sensor) • Peak boost display • Four different programmable boost settings • Boost warning (Can be pre-set to visually and audibly alert the driver to an overboost situation) • Scramble boost • Boost limiter safety feature (prevents over-boosting) Fits any turbo car, single/dual turbo. Comes with Japanese and English Instructions Price $450 ono Pickup Available from Liverpool or Ultimo, Sydney. Shipping at Buyers expense. PM me or give me a call on 0412435107 More Pictures available upon request. Cheers

Hi Guys, I decidecd to go with the Kumho's. Don't seem so bad so far. A lot better than what I had. Thankyou for all your opinions/suggestions. Was very helpful. thanks

Thanks for the feedback guys. You are right the 235 are easier to get. I realize the fronts are important, but you are correct, I should place more emphasis on them. The Toyo's are a bit out of my price range. I noticed not much mention of the Dunlop sp3000A much on the forum. Are these any good. I am a dunlop fan from way back. Don't know about these ones though. And Yes I did get a full wheel alignment done.

Hi Guys, I know this type of threads have been done to death. But my front's are stuffed, due to exessive camber. I have 235/45/17 on my R33. Just had a f/r camber/caster kit fitted and need new rubber. Since its just for the fronts, I don't want to spend a ton of money. Looking through the existing threads and calling around. This is what I got . 235 Nexxon $110 Kumho Ku31 $150 Nanking NS2 $150 Maxxis MAV1 $129 Dunlop SP3000A $175 Silverstone EX08 ??EV08 $140 Bridgestone Supercat $160 Toyo T1R $200 225 Sumitomo HTR $170 Diamondback $132 Ideally I would like to keep it under $150.. Are Maxxis Tyres any good?? I am so confused. Any suggestions welcome. Need something with good grip and not noisy ALso I am not sure if should go with 225 or 235s thanks

Hi Guys, Some tool managed to break into my car. Managed to rip the weather shield and took it with him. Not sure what he is going to do with it. Anyway, I need a passenger side factory Nissan weathersield with clips in A+ condition to fit a R33 S2 coupe. Am Located in Sydney so prefer someone local. Prefer to buy off a member before I head off to the local wreckers. Please PM thanks.

Hi Guys, What the different between the manual pre-1996/06 and 1996/06 onwards models. I read somewhere that they run different computers ? 23710-13U00 RB25DET S2 Manual 1996-01 to 1996-06 23710-13U01 RB25DET S2 Manual 1996-06 on Is there a difference in the fuel/timing ? Can a post 1996/06 ecu be used in an earlier series 2 model ? thanks

Thats what I am worried about, don't want any to screw anything up. Let me know if anyone knows of a reputable place in South West Sydney.

Hi Guys, Some loser smashed my drivers side rear quarter glass today while I was at work. Where's the best place to find a replacement and to get someone to install it. Looks tricky to install. It looks like it has tint, is this from factory ? since my passenger windows don't have tint. Any help will be appreciate. I am in Sydney. For a R33 Gtst S2 thanks

Cheers gary...

Hi Guys, I wanted to confirm fitting of the rear camber kit. I only have a single kit at this stage and have a lowered R33. From my understanding I have to replace the inner bush of the (1)upper control arm and the (2)upper radius arm. I am not sure of the correct terminology. But for the arm that is at an angle, I have to position the offset tube/bush. with the hole(offset) closer to the hub rather than the diff. Once I bolt that up, I have to replace the radius arm( the straight arm, with the new bush/tube and I use this to do all my adjustments. Is this correct ? I have included an attachment of a pic that I found on this forum. Not sure what car it is from but looks simiilar to mineCan someone confirm what I am seeing is correct. Also when I grease the bushings do I have to grease everywhere, I mean between the crushed tube and bush and between the bush and chassis components. Cheers

Hey Gary, Your inbox is full. Trying to get the replacement part off you. Cheers, Shiha'b

Hey Gary, I sent you PM. cheers

Hi Gary, I have sent you a PM with payment for some parts. Cheers.

Cheers Mate... Answers all my questions..

Hi Guys, I am looking at getting the Whiteline Front/Rear Camber kits and Castor kit. Can anyone tell me if they are adjustable? Once you install the bushes is that it, of can it be adjusted later on ? If so, how can it be done ? The reason, I ask is that I was reading on the whiteline site, and it seems like for the rears, once you install the bushes, the factory adjusters are then used to adjust camber in the rear ? Previoulsy I have used ecentric bolts for camber, which were easliy adjustable Cheers

Hi Guys, I was after an opinion on the state of my suspension. I took some photos. The first two are of one of the front shocks and the 3rd is a rear unit. I noticed that the front boots of both front shocks are stuffed while the rear is intact. Is this cause there is a lot of movement in the front, due to the weight. I was wondering if the front bump stops are too long. Could this be a cause of the harsh ride. The center to guard height is 337 mm all around. I was also reading up that these are short stroke shocks. Anyone know the dimensions, travel length of the blisten and/or kyb shocks. Trying to work out what the height might be with kybs and my current springs. Also, can anyone tell me what the free length is of the front/rear Whiteline springs Anyone used the shockreco place in brissy. Am contemplating on whether I should get my current shocks re-valved. thanks for you help.

Hi Guys, Are KYB shocks any good with the springs that I have, which are probably lowered and not a very high spring rate. I might be able to get a good deal on them.. Are they better than stock shocks in temps of bump valving and rebound for slightly higher rated springs. thanks

If the rates do turn out to be true. is it the shocks which is causing the stiff ride. Are there any other options for shocks, I don't plan on taking it to the track or anything. Just street use. Are there any cheaper alternatives.

Hi Guys, I have removed the springs and given then dimension off to SydneyKid. I also had them tested at K-mac in Rockdale. They told me the Fronts are 160 lb/" and rears are 120. I am not sure how accurate this is, beacause they are the progressive type and I don't think they probably loaded them enough so I am very interested to see what SydneyKids calculations are. Is there anyone else in Sydney that can test spring rates specifcally around Liverpool. Does this mean, that my shocks are probably too hard. I have put them on softest setting. I have also adjusted height to raise it before I put them back on the car. Anyone know where I can get them re-valved/serviced in Sydney. The only ones I could find were Shock Reco in Brisbane. The other question, why is the recommnded Front height higher than rear. Mine are set at 337mm all around I have raised them to approx 345 mm. Will that make any difference in ride quality or its purely a height/preload adjustment. I would like to get SydneyKids suggested shocks but cannot afford them at this time. Will my springs be able to work with the his recommended shocks. thanks again.