SS8_Gohan

if you want RP, go 5w30

^ someone has been inspired by JDM land more info on vinyl overlay needed... STAT

just jap also have a return flow FMIC for the 34

i'm almost certain that black car has had a respray.... the paint quality and gloss levels of the R's from factory are awesome. 99% sure that's a satin black respray... just what i wanted to do to my car (or possibly a photoshop respray?)

what cars?

^ ahhaha, yes i noticed that too!! and then he turned it off straight away as well i think.... but really, if you're testing the thing, why not treat it like crap just to see how long it takes to break

how do you get into a 'between insurance' companies situation? surely this is a unique car... would be hard to do anything but joy-ride?? perhaps keep an eye on the auctions as well

Race Brakes (or whoever the SAU sponsor is) and confirmed by the maker of the group buy braided lines at Brake West (sunshine) Race Brakes make lines for the V8 Supercars, and he explained the difference between a "street" braided line, and a track braided line. Brake West said they can replace the rubber ADR fittings with metal ones (on the GB lines) to comply with CAMS, but then it's no longer ADR approved. But you'd prob have to have a switched on officer to know though.... i reckon....

re: braided lines for track applications. Generally speaking, ADR approved lines AREN'T up to scratch for track work (method of construction), very light track work yes, anything above that.... no Conversely, CAMS approved braided lines generally speaking AREN'T ADR approved, hence illegal to run in a street car. I reckon you'd be unlucky to get pinged for em, so if you plan on doing any extended periods of track work, get CAMS approved ones. I don't know the specifics, but the "crimping" method used to make ADR approved lines (adr approved lines will have a rubber bit with the ADR number stamped on it) doesn't cope with heavy use

^ paul sometimes posts over at DA (DetailAddiction) the FI forum of sorts... Paul has his own wax now that he thinks competes with Royale... in the thousands of $$'s, but don't think it's as expensive as Royale (2 choices of packaging, plastic or swaroski (sp?) crystal)

nothing was cut when i got the front bumper put on?? genuine plastic east bear bumper, maybe why it was a perfect fit... So it looks like this guy has removed his reo bar Just taking a stab, but if your FMIC was hitting the reo, looking at this pic, could you just fabricate up another bracket to make it sit lower??

yeah, standard GTT reo. So really, it doesn't particularly matter what front bumper it is, it's the reo that's the problem?? would a bit of fiddling with the end of the pipes (where they go to the stock airbox, etc) allow a position whereby the FMIC is NOT touching the reo??

reckon this front bumper would have more room to avoid cutting? i guess i have more room down low, but yeah, as others have said... it would mean the pipes would be out of whack then i guess... if i mounted it lower, would that mean i'd have to weld like an extension to the end of the pipes going to the stock positions? i reckon i could get an exhaust shop to do that

wouldn't it just look like any other FMIC once installed??

haha, i too am famous for 1.5 seconds

sorry for the newb questions, but why exactly does the reo need to be cut? what part of the fmic is not clearing the bar?

^ i was thinking the same thing, surely cutting the reo is perhaps the dodgiest thing you could do, structurally, to a car... i'm a complete newb to FMIC but would mounting it lower perhaps avoid reo cutting issues??

i too want to get the stealth cooler, but i don't think anyone has done an R34 install yet... and i sure as hell ain't cutting up my front bumper, that's for sure. does mounting it low avoid potential reo cutting issues?

hahaha, disembowelment anyways... i that there is a wacky loop-hole in the Yanks import laws that means they can separate an engine from the car itself, and basically bringing them in in pieces (before being sold through the stealerships). I'm sure someone will whack one on an engine dyno at some stage.... can't hide then...

go to the toilet before reading the following from corvetteforum... "Playstation generation' "doesn't matter how fast it is because it's the ugliest car ever made" "Nissan lies about all lap times" "One Lap of America proves the R35 on circuit is a failure" "it drives itself" "emotionally cold" "is only a Datsun" "transmissions are all breaking" "launch control is a failure" "all cars tested are "ringers" and fakes" "lacks luxury interior appointments commonly found in Toyota Camrys... what a rip off" "cut slicks" "tramlining/ride too harsh.... what a failure" "should be an Infiniti" "but wait... the interior is cheap and lacks luxury... I thought this was an Infiniti?" "did I say this would sell better were it an Infiniti?" "will never sell beyond a 2 year run... is too expensive for what you get" "lacks any feeling" "amazing technology.... a waste of a car" "ugly" "7:38 ---a lie" "7:29 --- impossible" "7:29 settings to suspension were not factory and will not represent real world conditions... tires are cut slicks" "Porsche is more emotional and passionate about cars" "Interior is ugly and uninspiring ... typical Japanese" "Can it get any uglier?" "Too heavy; cannot achieve those times" "Nissan has never raced before.. GT-R is unproven and unworthy of praise" "driver isn't necessary in the GT-R" "suspension too hard even in comfort mode; interior lacks appointments.... but this should be an Infiniti anyway" "Infiniti should take over NISMO and Nissan and show them what should really happen" "too bad the R35 isn't properly called an Infiniti even though it rides very harshly and lacks luxury appointments on the interior.... poor clueless Nissan" "is ugly"

prove it.

Ask the sprayer about curing time, but yes, that is quite fresh paint. Perhaps give it 3 months before detailing. In the mean time it's VERY important to give the new paint some protection, BUT also allow the paint to breathe so it can cure. A Carnauba wax is perfect for this. I'd pick up some P21s paste wax, or even some OCW (optimum car wax) from Final Inspection, to help you with this. Both around $30, but brilliant for the money, best bang-for-buck waxes you can buy. Build up some layers to protect the paint until it's time to detail. Skip the AutoGlym stuff.

^ dude, should pursue the widebody if you want to go all out. I've never seen a JGTC type 34, that would be cool to achieve something that

only one place to take a car to get detailed in Melbourne, Damian @ Final Inspection

i might be mistaken, but i think it's a REQUIREMENT of ANY for sale items to have pictures attached, not website pictures. if you're too busy to take pics, how'd you find the time to start the thread, post replies and get the post count to where it is? In reality, the time it takes from turning the camera on to clicking 'post' after doing everything in between is perhaps 5-7 mins. 1) you say FULL KIT, full kit includes the spoiler, does yours? 2) the parts you mentioned have options of FRP or PFRP, can you prove which one you have? so which is it, you can't be bothered or you don't have a camera? you seem to be switching between the two