SS8_Gohan

5w30 is fine for street use, especially for a R34 GTR. If there is considerable track work, you MAY think about upping it a bit... Redline = Group 5 based oil Motul = Group 4 based oil (and this is in regards to the types of products we would select from these companies) generally speaking then, Redline is better than Motul

great justification

you don't have insurance?

^ that's just f*cking stupid enjoy the $10,000 fine

wouldn't bother with a 10w from what you're describing. Don't be worried about an 0w or 5w oil 0w30 or 5w30 Redline is better than Motul there's a group of Group 4 and 5 based oils that is mentioned a lot in this thread, and also a website where to get the best ones.

Hi guys, just wondering if anyone knows a good retrimming place? I'm aware of Blackman's already, but some not so brilliant jobs on friends cars recently have sorta turned me off going there, so i'm looking for alternatives cheers, daniel

the trades plates would ONLY be good for test drives, OR if the OWNER of the plate wanted to drive it for whatever reason. Not going to help any potential buyer by handing them a trade plate registered to GT

is it more a groan? And say if you reverse out of a driveway, will it be quite noticeable then from the transition of sloped driveway, to the flat road? i get more of groan then a squeak from the rear left of my R34. This was after i put the bilstein shocks and whiteline springs in. I've had it up on the hoist at the sus place i got it installed at, and they said everything looked fine, so i'm thinking i'd have to take the rear seats back out again as it might be something happening back there. might be rubbing on something, but the groan makes me think it's not just rubbing.... it's weird... but i get it from the rear left on my car too i've got Redline gear oil in my diff, not that old, and it didn't make these noises until after the sus install, so maybe it's not the diff?

you MIGHT just be able to stretch it, prob best to ask the guru

sorry late reply thanks for all the help guys.... i have a feeling it maybe just a bit too much throttle on exit, or too much too early. R34 turbo's have factory LSD's as far as i know. i might read into it a bit more, but yeah, as some of you have said, probably the best thing is some seat time. oh, i am guilty of the late gear change too did notice that does a nice job of unsettling the car during heavy braking slightly OT, but if you have full adjustable sway bars, strut braces front/rear, is there anything else that can be done to reduce body roll? just out of curiosity.... i guess that leaves only a roll cage?

^ just this month, as in, april last year someone dug up an old thread but the samples are great, and they last a surprisingly long time.

for vic peeps, if you're running a FMIC, even having a boxed pod is illegal yeah?

you'll need pics of it for real if people are going to believe you actually have it

those rear lights aren't GTT lights are they? don't seem wide enough for the rear guards?

nope, i don't think it's an absolute answer. Of course, it's about finding the right level, which is the optimal contact patch on the road. That's what you're chasing with tyre pressure My tyres are 265/35/R18's, the lower the profile, the higher the psi. 38-40psi for street, and i run 42 for track. I didn't know any of this myself, but i've done 2 advanced driving courses and 1 track day with instructors on hand for anytime that you're out. Every single one of them has stressed the tyre pressure point, and no, not just specifically for track. I'm going to listen to what these guys say over what the 1st year apprentice at the local tyre shop has to say, that's for sure. Anyways, this is an R34 fuel economy thread, but post up if you have any other car i guess. If you choose a category, we can still compare.

tyre pressures should be taken when cold, assuming a few extra psi will appear, is not the way to guage how much pressure your tyres have

oh, to answer q's.. yep GTR rims powder coated black nope, stock guards. But the car has bout 4 layers of wax, so might be depth/gloss making the guards look beefier what FMIC is that Wayne?

jeebuz dezz, how'd you go from banned to a club exec!! i had no idea

just order direct from Damian, chuck him an email, few days later, all you goodies will be at your door all boxed nicely What polisher do you use?

dude, finalinspection.com.au has been mentioned a zillion times in this thread. He sells ALL the best stuff Swissvax Zymol (he has a tub of Royale, $18,000 if you're interested) Dodo Zaino P21s Menzerna, etc, etc.. Which dodo are you referring to? They have a lot of products. Mate, poorboys is decent but just go get some Menzerna polishes, not that expensive and you CANNOT get better. You know what you're doing, so just get the best P21s is a great BFYB product, and the new P21s100 is better again (although more $$). Swissvax Onyx is a great wax as well and not that $$. I've seen some great results from of Dodo's range of waxes as well. So Onyx, Dodo (choose the wax depending on the car colour), P21s100 would be some great waxes to try. Dodo's Lime Prime is one of the best pre-wax prep products available as well. Obviously suited to Dodo products, but works equally with others.

+1 for FMIC then thanks for the pm the other day as well Dan You think the Just Jap item should sort those problems out ok?

my tyres can take a lot more than 40psi factory specs from days gone by are set to "comfort" mode you would be hard pressed to notice a difference between 32 and 38, but the advantages would be noticed over time just because he owns a GT-T doesn't mean he knows what the tyres should be at. do with this info what you will, but tyre placards until only the last few years, are set around comfort, not safety and tyre wear.

autoglym what exactly??? it's like saying... "HKS, makes my car go faster, they're awesome!" they make some good products, their bumper care one is not bad... but there's a whole other level above autoglym

Hey people decided i'm going to go with a remap for my 34, power fc is too expensive. (2 options for this, just deciding who at the moment) Current mods - Full 3" turbo back exhaust with hi-flow cat - turbotech boost controller, around 10psi i think I will be doing some sort of intake mod, thinking hi-flow panel filter as i can keep the stock airbox. Not sure if a pod is better, but i don't see the benefit of having a pod sitting out in the engine bay sucking in hot air. I would like to do some sort of CAI as well, but at least a hi-flow panel filter, or something to keep the stock box. What i don't know is if i need is a FMIC? These look great IMO from just jap http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...er-t209304.html And if i wanted around 200rkw's (should be obtainable), i know the SMIC is capable of this, but is a FMIC necessary? The car will be tracked a little, and a few places have said that in summer, you'd notice a FMIC would make a big difference. So yeah, FMIC or just stick with the SMIC? And if i go for a FMIC, would the just jap one to the trick? I like the idea of keeping a stock looking engine cheers, daniel

is that factory?? shit i've been around here for a while and had NO IDEA 32's had that