SS8_Gohan

oh fem, was that you who i was talking to at the lights of blackburn and wellington? it was the first meet that i could make, and i only managed to make it to the carpark at 9:40pm, but there was 1 nice looking stagea, and the 32 there, maybe 1 or 2 more guys, a copper and a bike copper. I drove in the wellington entrance, got the eye from a silver? marked cop car went to the car park, scrapped the crap outta my front bumper as i was too busy looking at the cops and guys in the car park, decided best not go in, and waited around a bit outside the carpark to see what was happening. Decided probably best not to tempt fate and drive in (i'm 99% sure my car is fine, but you just never know what they might decide to get you for) and had a quick chat to the 32 owner at the lights down the road. Then tried deakin car park, no luck, met another dude, Evo owner at the exit, he too was looking for you guys and had no luck. I forgot i can't get out of the deakin top exit, too farken steep, so i had to back up and go back the way i came EDIT: i found you guys eventually, but i won't say where, just realised as i was typing it all out, prob best not to mention specifics. Looked like you were having fun eating duck The TMU gets assigned places to patrol yeah? So someone higher up has said, someone check the Monash carpark? These meets would have to be THE MOST unhooning type events and this shit happens. And the police wonder why there is an "us and them" attitude... EDIT

thanks for the Gary and others... under body aero was what i was really keen on as well. I thought it might be more beneficial than putting a spoiler on it... unfortunately with my front bumper, i had to take the middle factory undertray off as it had to where to attach to the East Bear front bumper... But when i was looking at it, from the side, it looks like this... | | | | |_____________ (front of car here) And because the front edge had nothing secure to attach to (besides my bush mechanics)... it did this at high speeds... | | | |__ .....__ .........__ .............__ .................__ (ROAD contact followed by horrible noise) And it just seemed like all it would do was act as like a parachute at the front? As in, wouldn't it just create more drag when the air slams into the upright section?? If i were to get a full undertray, or just to the front of the front wheels, it wouldn't matter then if i didn't have the factory undertray? Does it matter what a full body undertray is made out of?? someone want to lend me some money for these CF parts? i'll put your like workshop sticker on my car or something i swear they had a front one too, but i can't find it.... R35 GTR

too bad they don't know anything. what size rims you got? if they're around 16" rims, put at least 38psi in there. There are only pluses for running higher psi.. -less tyre wear -less emissions -less fuel -better handling (less sidewall flex) -tyres won't heat up as quick during spirited driving -better water dispersion -better braking performance -all round safer ask any who REALLY drives cars, gotta go high psi - the old 32psi type philosophy is based around "comfort" not safety or tyre wear.

that's interesting as no stealership could officially be selling any (even in anticipation), there is no official "queue" only the ability to "express interest". they haven't even announced 1) when the f*ck they're coming 2) how many are coming 3) who will be selling them 4) how many will go to each stealership (if they use the stealership network) i'm aware stealerships have been taking deposits, but good f*cking luck with that... a deposit means jack shit at this stage and doesn't guarantee you anything.

yeah, Castrol Syntec is their true synthetic oils... and surprise surprise, you can't buy it off the shelf here... well, not that i know about. I would stick with the german 0w30 though.... i've heard a lot of reports that the American stuff is actually Group III, but Castrol decided they wouldn't tell anyone...

dude, pump those tyres up oh and add the fuel you use as well, i'm a BP Ultimate user

30% drive train loss is too low as an AWD setup, or, awkw reading will have more power lost through the drive train than a rwd car would. there is no way a car weighing around 1600kg, can do what it does with just 227kw's. 250-260kw's or more at the fly would be my guess. It's basically saying that an extra turbo, extra displacement (plus a whole raft of better components than a NEO RB25DET) only gains 21kw's? Not likely... Unless you want to rip the engine out and dyno that, you won't know what the factory specs are. Someone may have done this already, i dunno... but yeah, more lost through the AWD than RWD

so this shit is happening tonight? uni car park, and then glen area for food later?

^ wow, possibly the most useless reply ever... 1) 206kw is the "stated" figure, ever noticed how many JDM cars have that as the power figure? heard of the 'gentlemen agreement'? That was the cap 2) GTR would be, i dunno, more 250-260kw at the fly 3) he was after AWKW!!!! not same bogus factory claim fly wheel number!! to answer your question, i dunno but 180-190awkw sounds about right

OK, let's get into a bit more detail here regarding our cars fuel economy. There are A LOT of factors that are at play when it comes to economy obviously, the right foot, traffic, speed limits, urban, extra urban, country, mods, etc... So it's very hard to compare, but i figure if we break this down a bit, we can see how our cars are going... For this, i say we measure ONLY how we go for the first HALF of our tank. So fill up when the tank gets to half way, as far as she'll go, see how many litres it takes. Answers will be in Litres / 100km's and we take note of how many k's we've done when we get to halfway. More accurate than low fuel lights or people's idea of what a "tank" is... So, a few categories relative to roads travelled and traffic Category 1: - Just urban driving - Mainly 60km/hr driving, a bit of 80km/hr roads - Not peak periods of traffic Category 2: - Just urban driving - Mainly 60 - 80km/hr roads - Includes peak driving, "9-5pm" type journeying. Category 3: - Just urban driving - Includes freeway 100km/hr driving - Includes peak time driving Category 4: - Category 3, but freeway travel mainly not peak times Category 5: - Combo of urban driving and... - extended periods of time highway/freeway driving (so 100km+) - mainly 100km/hr driving If you think there needs to be more or less, or changed, post away. Please also briefly note mods as well, so people can compare a bit more accurately again... I've yet to start the half tank fills, but last tank was 435km's from 48-49 litres, so choose a category, mention briefly mods, and car year, transmission, and your L/100 mine from last tank (from low fuel light to low fuel light, filled up within 1-2 km's from see the low fuel light) --------------------------------- Category 1 98 R34 GT-T, Coupe, Manual Full turbo back exhaust, boost controller to about 10psi Tyres @ 40psi at all four corners 11.3L/100km's. BP Ultimate ---------------------------------

skip it, only Group III based oil... it might "say" Synthetic... but technically, it's not.

jeebus, who and why dug this up?

just the rubber blade. The bit that is physically attached to your car stays, you just pull off the current blade, and it leaves JUST the wiper ARM (no blade) and then attach this wiper blade to it. I'm a shocker of a DIY car person, but even i managed to get them on myself. Bosch have really made a great system with these wipers.. but as i said above, i think the price is basically the same as the shops

yeah, got these on my 34 as well (just the front) 11ty billion times better than the whatever ones were on there. but i remember only paying high 30's, perhaps low 40's for these at super cheap auto?. can i buy a single one? prob want to change my rear windscreen as well

bingo! say goodbye front bumper

damn it, why must they discontinue everything!! ahhh... the guru emerges With my extremely limited knowledge i believe that you can overwrite one of your own existing tunes Sam, where as Toshi can't erase his? I think the might be the difference? i'll let you guys nut it out

how many interested people would you need to travel interstate?? oh and you have PM

this is MOST interesting i have an R34 and as R33 owners know about limited supply of PFC's, R34's seem to be worse again, and every tuner in melb says "go power fc" I've heard great things about about Sam (Dr Drift) and i was almost about to book in after chatting to another very well versed remap member here (666DAN) but somehow found this Toshi guy Dr Drift is $960 drive-in/drive-out (obviously dyno tune) BUT i believe the way he does it, you can pop in any time after an additional mod, and get a retune, just like power fc, but he doesn't have to burn anything again?? As in he can do live remapping or something? Not very good on the tech side of things, but would that be the difference here? Dr Drift can be touched up, but Toshi's whilst initially cheaper... you'd have to pay practically the same amount again if you change some mods? I was also thinking of changing to a FMIC, but you guys are getting good results with the SMIC (obviously what i have already) so i might just stick with that!

^ i'm not sure.... always thought 34's look a bit funny without them, but after lowering my car, and having the full kit on it, it's pretty much passable without a wing, but from some angles, looks a little strange.... thought this was a good compromise, keeps the sleek look a bit better by being lower than the factory height

had no idea this happened, sorry to hear hahaha, was the guy trying to sell your East Bear front bumper?? sucks to be him if he wasn't and didn't realise how much he could have got for it

thanks for the help guys i was actually thinking of this particular one... http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g58159544 - i figure it's ok to link in here, as i haven't seen anyone else in Oz with one and i like the slightly lower, more angled look. re: plastic under-trays, unfortunately my front bumper doesn't allow for the factory ones, well not the middle one at least. And the left and right side plastic trays aren't sitting flush with the bottom of the bumper either... sooo.. if you have more down-force at the front, are you trying to equal that at the back. Does side aero play any part? My car at the moment... so if i have a bitumen scrapping front bumper, does this necessarily need to be balanced properly at the other end? as for under body aero, something i'd love to do... i might have to go custom fab for it... east bear under body CF is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

yeah, GT3 is $260K or there abouts (interesting, not much more, if not the same, as a standard 911 Carrera (maybe Carrera S)), GT3 RS is $305K or there abouts - Turbo is about $330k, GT2 is a whopping $420K roughly

hey Gary i've done 2 advanced driver training days, and 1 day at track day at sandown with instructors on a few laps when i had the swaybars installed, i was trying to remember that exact post off the top of my head when i was at the workshop, i went with full hard rear, full soft front to start with, which was obviously wrong for a setting to start out on. But it's the "if it still oversteers..." that i don't know if it is or isn't... that's what i'm getting at, the feeling, or knowing that is what's happening. As a driver, i guess i just don't really get it. I mean, i know what it is, i know what it looks like, but being behind the wheel and feeling it seems to be a different matter for me. I guess it's a bit like yourself being able to revalve the bilstein shocks to your specs... not everyone would be astute enough to be to engineer something like that. I don't have the 'feeling' know-how of it it's just my right foot that is causing the TC to kick in, or if it's perhaps my suspension that is contributing to it..... djr81: no aftermarket lsd that i know of, no pics of my car cornering that i know of. Good question re: without throttle... do you mean completely without throttle? or just whilst it's not being actively pressed? kicking myself for not asking the instructor who drove me car, what he thought of it. He was ultra experienced, can't remember the qualifications/history but had been in/around motorsport for a long time. Maybe i'll go do another day with instructors, let a few different ones drive the car and see what they think. Is something that perhaps a suspension specialist workshop could do? ie.... "tune" or some sorts? oh and yes, aware of the friction circle, see it a couple times at the Driver Dynamics days....

hahhaa, Nissan "Brighton" (probably bentleigh technically)... i get my fuel/oil filters from there and there is a snowball's chance in hell of the GTR going to a dump like that. It has a shared service desk with HYUNDAI for goodness sakes!!! As in, a Nissan guy sits one side and helps the Nissan customers, and a Hyundai guys sits about 2 metres to the right and serves the grandma excel driver who came in to check why there is some sort of "oil" light flashing on her dash. Realistically, there are NO nissan stealerships capable of selling this car..... BUT, if Melbourne were to have one, i would say Ferntree Gully Nissan is the only place that has a remote chance of getting one. It's some sort of "Platinum" stealership, that often wins best Southern Hemisphere stealership awards, etc... or something like that. I've never been there, but my guess would be Ferntree Gully for Melbourne, and maybe Blackburn. I reckon they should just rent out some small workshop or premises near the city, nice glass frontage with space for 1 or 2 GTR's, nice little cafe/waiting area... most room dedicated to the servicing area, and poach some people from BMW/Porsche/Merc to work there (front desk).

wow... ok, guess i wasn't expecting it to be so clear cut, thought it might something like "if you're doing 250+, then... yes" so in short, even for "weekend" track days, a spoiler can make a big difference and it's probably preferable to have one then? thanks for the replies guys