SS8_Gohan

they washed it at a DIY with their "soap" solution and a dog bone sponge!!!!???? :P f*cking retards!!!! unacceptable, specially when they're so close to Final Inspection in Brunswick you can see in the last pic it's already scratched.... :domokun::mad: might have to go check it out

Hi guys, thought i'd post this in here instead of the general section, as this is where the serious stuff happens My car is currently spoilerless, and i've only done 1 track day at Sandown but would like to do a few more and was wondering if i was to track the car a few times a year, is a spoiler necessary?? I was sorta babying the car at Sandown (33 degrees) and i only got to say 170 clicks on the straight, but i'd liked to give other tracks a go as well, especially Phillip Island. Withe these the sorts of speeds.is it beneficial and safer to have a spoiler?? I'm not talking some big T wing thing, i'm thinking more along the standard height of a GTT spoiler. I know they're only functional at certain speeds, and just wondering if recreational track driving see's these sorts of speeds a few times a lap cheers, daniel

Hi all, so it's been a few months since i've had SK's bilstein/whiteline shocks/springs in the car, along with camber kits (set to Sk's specs) and adjustable swaybars. Swaybars came first, and the difference was quite noticable. Initially set full hard rear, and full soft front, sat a lot flatter, but always wondered if it was set a little too tail happy.... Springs/shocks came after and car sat flatter again, felt alot more solid and planted on the road, but i had the swaybars put back to the middle settings before a track day (both front/back bars) as i thought i'd try for a more neutral setting. The question is, how can you tell if you have too much oversteer? I could get the TCS light to come on fairly easily out of a corner at Sandown, and i don't really have major power mods either. So how do i know if it's just the tyres losing grip, just too much power being put down, or that i have too much oversteer? I'm not really knowledgeable enough in terms of feeling what the car is doing as the 34 is my 2nd car, and my 1st performance car. I also think that the car still has quite a bit too much body roll, even with the SK spring/shocks AND adjustable swaybars. Would it be silly to set both front/rear to the hardest setting? Is there anything else that can be installed to reduce body roll? cheers, daniel

grey importers are trying for $160k i believe, nice profit that... Nissan maybe letting the $150k rumour get out there far and wide so when they finally get their asses into gear and let the public know the real price, it might be a "nice surprise" but i agree with Gary, ~$150K, cos that's what i said for the last 18 months waaaaay too many taxes, but hey... still a bargain relatively.

teaser of pics to come...

wow, big response, ok as Gareth said, it was track related, not road related. It was happening when i was going down the straights, shifting from 4th to 5th at say... 140'ish?? not sure exactly. That's the ONLY time i've ever noticed it happen in my car, at high speeds like that. so... 1) The noise is indicating the synchro's are being damaged each times it happens? 2) Yes, how exactly do i "rev match" 3) Should i perhaps give Redline Lightweight Shockproof a go? 4) Would a short shifter exacerbate the problem? Should i just shift slower and more carefully went at the track, moving into 5th? cheers and thanks for all the replies guys daniel

discolourisation can occur on the outside as well

only place to take it mate, Final Inspection

Hi all i noticed something strange with my 5th gear changes at Sandown a month or so ago, all gear shifts would be fine, but when it came to 5th, it would make this crunching sorta noise. It would still shift into gear, but it would make a 'not so nice' noise on the way through. I could be quite forceful/quick with the changes of the other gears, but really had to watch 5th and shift quite slowly. I then saw this on youtube the other day http://youtube.com/watch?v=aIMHbMXi178 997 911 GT2 vs Z06, driven by Chris Harris from Autocar (he does great reviews IMO) and the noise you hear from when he changes from 1st to 2nd at 5:02 (time of the vid) is the same noise i was getting from 4th to 5th at sandown when i was going down the straights. Chris mentions that the noise is "beating the synchro's", what exactly is this and is it doing a lot of damage to the gearbox when it happens? Gearbox currently has Redline MT-90 in it, but was thinking of switching to Redline Lightweight Shockproof, would this make a difference? Was also thinking of get a C's short-shifter, but would this just make the problem worse? cheers, daniel

update on this saga had the shims put back in, reduced the noise by about 90%, almost completely fine now, but will still "slightly" squeal on a slow stop, eg coming up to a red light. Not all the time though, pretty much not an issue anymore. But i checked the box of shims i gave them and the little parts haven't been put back in, just the main plates.... do you think putting the little corner pieces back in will stop that last little bit of squeal? those 2 little pieces weren't put back in the 2nd time round... Confirmed with distributor of QFM pads in Vic, these pads WITH shims. If the pistons are in working order, everything should fit. If they don't fit, there are other issues, R34's aren't special in that they don't fit. They do.

with a little knowledge gleamed from the guru (Damian @ FI) black cars can stay looking clean quite easily after getting into detailing, black is the ONLY colour i would get now on for a performance car.... well, probably any car

coming soon are an FI developed sealant and QD booster (booster for LSP, not designed as a QD for claying) And of course there are the shampoo products, the wheel cleaner and general purpose cleaner. These are indeed FI products, but Damian has never mentioned using a Menz polish that has been altered to his spec. Menzerna make the best polishes in the world as they are the only ones to have uniform sized abrasives (1 micron) which is critical in achieving a good result. These days he pretty much exclusively uses Menz polishes, and i would highly doubt they custom make polishes, and he has never mentioned a custom Menz polish He thinks they're the best, so he sticks with them. On the other hand, he does play around with some sealants, booster QD's etc, with a chemist. The "quote" does not mention polishes at all

haha Max, how are ya! you gave me a lift once back from an elwood meet up, during the arvo. i actually have a skyline myself now

hahahaha, hahaha, that's funny ;D now that's an interesting fact and well, there you go, instantly disproves the rumour as i would doubt Nissan missing that knowing the car was going to be released worldwide. Unless a relining of plasma is somehow not included in that cali law? one less thing for the Porka/Corvette boys to cling onto

mate, for someone who supposedly use to work at FI, you've got some rather erroneous info there... known Damian only for 2 years now (did a Stage 2 on my R34 in 06) but have read and tried to learn as much from him/D.A. since. Have you been to the new 'Tique? I agree this thread was a little off when it started, but if you read some of my posts, i tried to set things right slightly. Firstly, the wash technique. - FI uses Aquatouch Micro Fibre wash mitts (same as what i use) - Pre-rinse stage is very important, i agree, but this should be done in the following steps. 1) water rinse to wet the car, 2) application of diluting car shampoo solution to car (spray pack is handy for this), 3) rinse this off, this should remove most/all of the loose debris on the car. - NOW you can start washing. A rinse bucket i've found is practically ESSENTIAL to give the best chance of leaving the clear/paintwork unmarked. - You are correct with the washing motion described, no circular motions, no overlapping strokes. - The Aquatouch MF mitts allow you to flip the mitt, so you can do a bit more of the cars panels without going back to rinse. I generally do the roof 1 side, bonnet 2nd side, rinse, boot lid 1 side, and then rinse again (flat panels done) - Best for the rinse water to be warm as this allows the most dirt to be released from the MF fibres - I apply the car shampoo via a spray pack/bottle of sorts, so i spray as i go along, on each panel. Avoid use of another bucket of water/shampoo - Now rinse again - And yep, now waffle weave drying towel (MF) to dry Clay as necessary, i know described a 'detailing routine' but for those that might be a little confused, definitely no need to clay every wash. FI sell clay magic blue claybars mostly, a recommends QEW as a lube solution (diluted). Clay magic make a red bar, but that's for some serious correction work, and will marre the paint. Waffle weave after claying would not be recommended as the claybar/QD leaves a residue behind that can be detrimental to both the paint correction and wax stage. You should either wash the car again after cleaning, or use a 50:50 alcohol wipe solution to remove all clay residue. AFAIK FI does not have it's own polishes. They sell Menzerna polishes which are the best you can get. Again, the polishes i use and what the boys at FI would use mostly. (Rarely, an Optimum polish product might be used) 95% the polish would be applied/worked via a machine. For enthusiasts this would predominantly be a Random Orbital (RO) or for the more serious people, and Rotex style maching like the Festool ones (beautiful but $$, multiple mode machine). Edge buffing pads are also used, some of the best pads there as well. Can be bought from FI. Polishing is a WHOLE other section to describe. AFTER POLISHING YOU MUST WASH THE CAR OR AT LEAST ALCOHOL WIPE DOWN!! You CANNOT jump straight to the LSP without the application process/results being compromised. Prep is what brings a paintwork back from it's dull life, not sealants of LSP. Your claying and polishing should be 95% of that final look. The reason FI detailed cars look so fantastic is the amount of PREP that goes into them, even if they are applying a $18,000 wax, the vast majority of the final look is achieved via the prep. Prep is absolute key. Agree, the Nano Twins are a good product. And perfect for those cars that live outdoors and take some punishment, but as a sealant only the look can be a little lacking, so doing what you did by layering P21s over the top is ideal for a look/protection combo. Allowing a Carnauba based wax to cure in the sun is the best way to achieve greater depth and warmth. Not allows possible due to weather, but if it can be done, do it. Leave the car in the sun for a little while with the new wax layer. All waxes need time to cure, applying the next day is possibly a waste of time as may not have allowed enough hours for the first application to have cured. Curing time differs, not sure of the recommended time for P21s. DUSTER/DUSTING BRUSH/CALIFORNIA DUSTER/PARAFFIN DUSTER ARE AN ABSOLUTE NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! These things are the work of the devil!! They WILL scratch your paintwork not matter how "soft" they may feel to your hand. NEVER EVER, i repeat, NEVER use one of these on your car. If you're going to layer a wax, WASH the car first, THEN wax. But the best way to layer a wax is just do it at your weekly wash. That way, each layer has time to cure and set, before applying the next layer. Polishing a window IS FINE! Damian recommends IP on Green, and that's what i do. clay the window, wash, IP on green, alcohol wipe down, wax. Look absolutely BRILLIANT afterwards. Glass will not be scratched by a Menz IP polish on an Edge green pad. To remove scratches from glass is a VERY intensive process with some VERY harsh products. Use paint products on glass will increase clarity and shine, it won't remove imperfections. May help with water etchings, but not always. Piggaz a polish broken down properly, and used correctlly, should not be hard to remove /end essay

seem your point guys, i just think that sometimes you find someone in a particular profession who has taken it to another level with both their skill and passion for their job. you've already scratched the car, hopefully not too bad IOWNU, there would be very cars fews in good enough condition to warrant a Stage 1. There is a lot of work involved in detailing a car properly, and even though a car can look glossy enough after a wash, most people have scratched/swirled/marked the clearcoat enough that Stage 2 or higher would be required. Is $150K for a R35 GTR a fair price? Some people would think paying $100K+ for a Datsun is retarded, but then others would be quick to point out that the car is almost $300k cheaper than a slower 997, 911 GT2, so is the price fair then? He should and could charge way more than he does, but he doesn't. So be happy with the prices you get, because if you asked any detailer to takes the same steps he does with your car 1) that wouldn't know what you're talking about most the time 2) they would quickly realise how much work that would involve and charge you accordingly. The other thing though, is what sort of finish are you looking for? More depth of colour, better clarity? completely defect free?? I mean if you're happy for the car to still have marks in the clear, albeit very slight ones, then maybe you could get away with a Stage 1. Stage 1 being roughly/approximately 1 pass done by a machine polisher. It doesn't matter who you are though, 1 pass by a machine polisher is NOT going to remove everything single mark/defect, end of story. But if you just want to spruce up the paint a bit, then by all means. Just depends what you're after As i said, pics of cars and i can give you an idea of how bad it is.

Phoenix, i assume you've popped over from NAGTROC? looks like you've got some good solid info there, where bouts did you come across it all?

if you followed the progress of the construction of Final Inspection's Auto Boutique in Brunswick, seen Damian's work, read about detailing and learning about the best products, the best techniques, what to look for in good results, what corners can be cut, what are the common pitfalls, what are the band-aid approaches, what are the tricks supposed "detailers" use to create "good" results, the bullshit that is found in any industry (5 star shine). When you hang around all this and the detailing forums, and try all the products, see what everyone around the world is using, their results and their processes, you'll quickly realise that Final Inspection has no peer in Australia. A car straight from the showroom has the potential to look a million times better than how it's presented when you buy it. is your car metallic Ruffels? got any full sun shots?

the proverbial "no brainer" Damian and the boys at Final Inspection. End of muthaf*cking story. Don't even CONTEMPLATE anywhere else, because these guys are practically the same price as comparable "detailers" but provide a level of service completely unmatched by anyone in the ENITRE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE!!! I say 'southern' because there is a freak of a detailer in the UK by the name of Paul Dalton. He does some ultra impressive work as well. I believe a Stage 1 detail is around $200, (don't quote me on that). But it really, REALLY, depends on the condition of the paint. If people post up some pics, i can give you an idea of how bad/good the paint is. Full sun shots preferably

no wuckez the funny thing though is that if this engineer is telling the truth, what are the Corvette and Porka boys going to do now??? this was the only thing they could cling too.... "but it has like 1000hp from the factory, of course it's going to be quicker!" sorry boys, just 480hp

well we already know the ceramic brakes are almost certainly a go but we also know that the R35 V-Spec is not going to follow the previously models as closely, in that the jump between GTR and GTR V-Spec will be A LOT bigger, in price and performance. I can't remember which of the Nissan eng. was quoted as saying, but he said there would be a fair price premium and realistically be a track only car. So i don't think we are going to see a slightly tricked out base GTR, i think we are going to see something pretty monstrous, easily over $200K for us Aussies... but a GT3 starts at $260K, GT3 RS around $305K, so again, should be a fair bit cheaper than the direct competition

dude, read the first post, especially the bold bit

someone gets it

http://blogs.motortrend.com/6247428/new-ca...rned/index.html 10% drive train loss!!!!!!!!! WTF!!!

sub 20 seconds from the V-Spec?????