SS8_Gohan

All genuine East Bear did you say you sold your car Forged?? looks soo clean, tidy and mean! quite unique, with the black mirrors and bonnet, love it

dude that's EXACTLY what i was contemplating! you know what they say, great minds.....

thought i'd give people a bit of a tease before i get some proper pics.. kit has been on the car for a few months now

all genuine East Bear my friends except the bonnet, that's err... modified OEM everything is in pieces... not one mould... East Bear can charge stupid amounts more this way "but look, you get TWO pieces of FRP!!" umm... and ahhhing... re: spoiler... not sure yet. Forged mate, excuse the hijack

i haven't seen that one, that's awesome! some damn expensive machinery in there

taken from detailaddiction.com if Damian recommends him, i think it's safe to say the man does impressive work "Mr. Dent provides the best paintless on-site Dent Repair service in Melbourne. I have been servicing many prestige dealerships for 20 years and am more than happy to service your vehicle. If you would like to contact me, you can by calling 0418 538 117 Thankyou, Vincent Veltre"

EDIT: pic moved to main R34 body kit thread, as to not hijack this one prob time to come out of hiding.... just a little

thought you were going wide-body? so you're going full east bear GTS-R kit??

GTRblog.com news was that it's a US manufacturer?

by useless comparo i mean, we already know the results. Now when the first 997 Turbo v Z06 v R35 came out, THAT was interesting, because we honestly didn't know what the GTR was really going to be like head-to-head. We had a pretty good idea that it should hold it's own, but we didn't know that it would demolish all except for the half mil jobs like the Superleggera/GT2, etc... And then subsequent comparisons such as the new M3 or the 997 GT3, were also an unknown. On paper the M3 should have done alright, but it was destroyed and who would have thought even the GT3 would have gone down! So those were good comparisons, because they were the GTR's contemporary rivals, and the real competition. 20 pages of GTR is just awesome and i will no doubt buy a copy, but as a comparison goes, i still think it's pretty useless. oh no, they've been hanging with the fringe dwellers!!! quick Colin, you know have hard "intelligence" in printed form!!

pretty useless comparo i reckon... so is this the GTR that's been going around in a box?

this is one where you need to buy a cams license on the day (if you don't have one) yeah?? and a helmet and fire extinguisher?? roughly how long does it take to drive to shep?

i thought it was a bit strange too? but that's what the workshop said... i guess it wasn't as THOROUGH a flush then...

flushed and filled power steering fluid with Transmax Z, seemed to fix my binding issues on a 30+ degree track day at Sandown. Fluid was black as anything when drained, looked horrible

conclusion: 1 bottle of RBF600 was enough to flush a bit and fill brakes. still have about 1.5litres left of Transmax. Apparently the power steering fluid was black as anything, just horrible, and took a bit to flush. So i wouldn't say 2.5litres would be normal, but i don't think mine had ever been changed. as far as i could tell from my track day, the Transmax has fixed the binding issues...

10w40 is not the best for an RB25, probably is no BEST but you'd want something more 0w/5w.... mechanic & autobarn = trunk monkeys, 15w50 is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too thick and that is the thinking of cars produced in the stone age... 0w-5w is where you should start. We all know most wear occurs at startup or cold, when the oil is..... everyone? that's right... THICK (relatively speaking) it has not reached operating temp and not even 0w is THIN enough at startup to completely prevent wear. So if the crucial time to protect (besides track work) is when the car is cold/startup, and the only way to do that is having a lower weight/viscosity (don't know correct term) why in hell would you run 15w???? Autonutbarn are the same people who told me i couldn't put Transmax Z in my power steering fluid... they don't know jack, NEVER go off what they say. Onto Synthetics... Castrol Edge is NOT synth, Shell Helix, is NOT synth, plus a whole heap of other oils marketed here as 'FULL SYNTH'. Oils come from different base groups, 1 through 5. 4 and 5 being the ONLY fully synth base oils. And only a FEW oils fall in this category. Group 3 is SEMI-sythn BUT a lot of manufacturers claim it's CLOSE ENOUGH to fully synth they reckon it's ok to say it is, which actually, it isn't. Hence Castrol Edge, Helix, all that other bullshit "FULL SYNTHETIC" marketing is complete and utter crap. It's not, it's a semi-synth, not fully man-made and leave it alone. Pick from some of these Royal Purple Castrol Syntec (0w30 only) Mobil 1 (0w only) Motul 300v and there are a few other Group 4 based Motuls Redline is Group 5, great stuff, pricey etc... there are others, don't know them all... get it from here... www.performancelub.com So basics, full synth is Group 4 base or higher. And go with something low, 0w or 5w. Right, now... this guide should apply equally to a R34 yes?

I think the only GrpV oils that Harold sells are the Redline ones... i pretty sure the others are GroupIV...

2 which have been reported. One smashed in HK, now one smashed in Malaysia, but yeah, probably more have bitten it as well... i'm sorry, i'm asian (well half) and when i got to the mostly asian suburbs for food, whatever... IMO the driving is proportional worse than other areas... which i think is more due to what they're use to experiencing, rather than a deficiency of skill. It's not horribly unsafe driving, just 'bad' driving. Not saying all are bad, perhaps that there is an over-representation of bad driving in predominantly asian suburbs have you driven in Malaysia? that's some scary shit right there my friend... but that's just the normal for that part of the world...

really??

not from performancelub.com its not check out Harold's prices, some of the best oils and at great prices.

Mobil 1 is good, although, i think it's an oil that needs more frequent changes than others... RB's are "lifty" fullstop. Mobil 1 did quiet mine down a bit, Royal Purple made them quieter again... i would probably stay away from "lifter free" sounds horrible. Good oil, fairly often. Just stick with that

hey Gareth , i got it from harold, $11.99 per quart, and you need about 6, $71 - i was just putting it into a more friendly measurement, litres instead of quarts. But it's still around $70 for an oil change didn't i tell you about Harold!? That's what i was referring to, German Castrol, Castrol Syntec. It seems anything OTHER than 0w30 is made in the US with GrpIII grade oil, and oil the 0w30 is made in Germany from GrpIV. Who knows really... so that's why i went with RP. Might do a bit more research and give the Castrol 0w30 a shot if i can confirm it's still GrpIV

hahaha, the US spec gets "wider" front seats.... if that isn't an astute observation of american society Troy get one, you know you want to

Royal Purple is a true GrpIV oil.... there have been reports Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec have dropped back to GrpIII without telling anyone as they reckon it's "near enough" to a full synthetic, so feel they didn't have to tell anyone Put Royal Purple in my 34, and will probably stick with it, bout $70 for 5litres. It copped a few saturdays ago, 30+ degrees, Sandown (track day), oil temps never above about 105 degrees, and the oil pressure was good throughout the day. Haven't checked it yet, but seemed to do it's job on the track on a very hot day.

we've known since the birth of christ that the v-spec is going to shed weight, thanks 'wheels' for pointing out that it MAY shed 140kg's. wheels (the holden sponsored mag) is the most f*cking useless mag out there. Still calling it a f*cking Skyline, when it graced the front cover for goodness sakes!! Even when we had confirmed info about engine, drivertrain etc... they were printing shit like "possibility of a 3.6 or 3.8 v6... etc" retards. wouldn't trust a single word they print