SS8_Gohan

i'm confused... what meet was this? and why does this workshop have so many GTR's?? were you guys on north rd late last night?? I was driving west and saw a whole group of people around what looked like the Nur 34... i was tempted to do a u-turn and see what the deal was... but thought that might be a bit dodge, that, and i didn't know if it was wise driving up to a R34 GTR with a bunch of people hanging around

just checked the weather, next saturday's track day for some of us Vic peeps (some_cs_student, myself, etc).... 35 freakin degrees!!! i've got some 5w30 royal purple coming from Harold, as there has been some issues recently that Moil and Castrol have switched to group III oil for Mobil 1 and Syntec (maybe not 0w30 syntec) BUT, for the oil guru's, do you think Royal Purple 5w30 will be able to handle a track day when the air temp is 35 degrees and god knows what the track temp will be

gareth, for the time being, i think i may have been discussing different pad compounds with people. rang qfm direct and confirmed A1RM's are rated to 780 degree's, and Brake West confirms that but call them K750's because in their own testing, they feel that's a slightly more accurate measurement of their temp range. Said they're fine at 780 but they feel 750 is where they'll be 100%, 100% of the time i've ordered some A1RM's from the group buy 'markk' setup

this is coming from a brake newb... apparently, if you pop the bonnet, get someone to press the brake pedal, basically you can see the firewall flexing where the brake cylinder is (i'm assuming in the general area behind brake pedals). It turn (i'm guessing) meaning that if you press the pedal, and the actual brake cylinder is moving in the same direction, TECHNICALLY, you're doing nothing. Ie, the net effect of pressing the brake pedal is ZERO because the brake cylinder behind it is moving in the same direction and not registering the 'immediate' braking force you're applying??? soooo.... you wack one of these bay boys on and what i think it does is stops the brake cylinder from moving, MEANING when you press the brake pedal, it's an instant input to your brakes/calipers, whatever, because the the brake cylinder isn't moving when your foot is depressing the brake pedal... feel free anyone to shoot that down, because that's how i've put the logic together in my head i also have plans for a perpetual motion machine if anyone is interested

ahahahhha, i too remember dealing with DOTARS..... +1 to the comment above :laughing-smiley-014:

servicing and diagnosing brake issues, not so much parts.

to answer what gear i'm running... stock, stock, stock...aaaannnd yep... stock. Everything is OEM Nissan. I have NO IDEA whether brake fluid was done during compliance. So that was at least the first step i'm going to do with the Motul RBF600 i just bought....

double post

now i've got some conflicting info here. A1RM = 580 degrees, at the MOST! Source = guy who developed the pads He said the A1RM's are NO WHERE NEAR 780 degree's. And considering QFM doesn't have a website, and development as has stopped, i don't know how to check this. And given the price of A1RM's vs RB74's (bout $150 front OR rear, near'ish $300 total) it would explain why the A1RM's are a lot cheaper. yet, everywhere i google, it comes up with A1RM=780 degree's???? sooooo confused..... the dude who made them, and everyone selling them.....

hi guys'n'gals have an ongoing issue with my rear brakes. Discs and pads are 100% (been checked twice) but the rear pads are slightly 'glazed'. Apparently there isn't enough heat getting into them?? I think it means that for some reason they're not really clamping down on the disc or something like that (as you can tell, i know next to nothing about brakes) just bought some Motul RBF600 today, got enough for a flush and refill, so that's the first step. But i was told it won't make a difference for my problem. ABS seems ok, warning light hasn't ever come on, and when it was tested today, the guy got the ABS to work. And i know from a recent driver training day the ABS is definitely working. But an instructor also noticed that my rear brakes never really did anything, locked up i think he said (it was on a split surface exercise). But the ABS unit seems ok. Took the car to arguably the most well known brake place in melbourne and their solution was to put some incredibly high performance pads on the car. Now, the pads recommended were absolute top shelf, no doubt, pricey but ultra impressive pads (endless cc-x) but i couldn't quite seem to get my point across that i didn't want to fix the problem with top quality pads, i wanted to diagnose the problem first and THEN take it from there. I don't want to just cover anything up with a great product which just hides the rear brake deficiencies so that they're almost non-existent. That seem crazy to anyone? I guess i just didn't quite explain myself properly. Soooo wondering if i could pick up brains here. Besides a completely flush and refill with top brake fluid, what else can i check for what seems to be a dodgy rear brake bias where the rear pads aren't really getting any heat in them? Does that mean that they're just not really biting on the disc at all? Problem is, i've started at the top in terms of brake workshops and haven't resolved the problem, and don't really know where to go from here (with a track day on 15th march) cheers, daniel

well i think my car looks alright everyone has their own tastes but yep, it's black with black gtr rims i've gone and ordered the ebay one, so we'll see how it goes when it turns up. Hopefully before the track day although the stupid seller is refusing to check his account for my payment, even though it was instant because he's got an ANZ account, and i've got an ANZ account!! He's like, "i'll check it in a day or so, it takes 1 day for money to transfer"... no retard, check it now because you have the money!! it's freakin instant!! you had the cash 2 days ago!! argh!! if i don't get it before the track day because of the stubborn prick, i'm not going to be a happy camper

that's not cool mate i'm having brake issues as well fingers crossed it won't put me out... but it maybe very slow laps though

Hi vic peeps just wondering if there are any other good brake workshops besides Race Brakes? yes i am aware SAU Vic gets a discount there kthxbye

wow, your "insider" info is sounding like more of an "outsider" after every post... mate, your argument has been handed back to you on a platter, in lots of tiny pieces... harden up, admit you're wrong, and let's get back to the nitty gritty like when the hell are some of these GTR's which are going to pass through melbourne, be given to Final Inspection for a detail!!! I want a close up look damn it!!

i would say 10w is too thick, especially with the colder months coming up. I would go with the recent advice here, 0w to 5w to provide the max protection where you get the most wear

marrk: please confirm these braided lines are rated for track use. can you please confirm that the 780 degree rated pads are the 750's you're selling? I thought A1RM were rated to around 580 degree's? cheers, daniel

yeah i was about to say 'dotars insider' there are a few floating around in WA, drag vid on youtube anyone? so i guess your "inside" contacts are on the "outside" of dotars?

pm sent

Hi all track day coming up, heard people rave about these things so i'm looking to get one in before sandown. So far i've got two options... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R33-...bayphotohosting http://www.nengun.com/cusco/brake-cylinder-stopper Ebay = cheap, get here before track day Nengun = more expensive, probably better quality, won't get here before track day. Realistically the car will only see the track a few times a year, if that... will the ebay one be sufficient for what i need?? Anything look glaring wrong with the design from the pictures?? There doesn't really seem to be any local options for these unfortunately, unless i missed something somewhere? cheers, daniel

anyone know of a good place to get Transmax Z?? i've tried AutoBarn, Super Cheap, Repco. AutoBarn don't, Super Cheap do (sold out at my nearby stores) Repco do as well.. BUT these guys only sell in 4 litres, i only need about 1 litre i reckon for power steering fluid. 4 litres = $72 Harold doesn't sell it and i can't seem to find an online shop for it either. Anyone have any other suggestions or places they know sell 1 litre bottles? I may have to just get the 4 litre one

cool, thanks mate Doesn't look like a huge install, and they're not too pricey, so i might just get one before sandown as i've heard they make a huge difference. anyone want to go halves in some Castrol transmax Z?? can only find places selling it in 4 litres, and i'm just using it for power steering fluid so i only really need 1 litre. Thinking maybe 2 if i want to do a good flush, so can go halves if people are interested? 4 litres = $72

cool, thanks mate how would that ebay one differ from this one?? http://www.nengun.com/cusco/brake-cylinder-stopper are there any local ones i could get without having to wait too long for postage?

the last day i was at, there was a little motorkhana section, and the instructor for that bit took my car out and he said it was normal for road cars to start doing that under these conditions, and it was probably just the steering fluid overheating. He didn't seem to think it was much and was some dual motorkhana champion or something... and i don't know how you could check something like that without trying to replicate the problem with some "turning" intensive driving....

so 1 litre of brake fluid would be enough to flush and fill up?? (i'd be doing all the brakes) Don't like to skimp on the cars lubricants, especially not before a track day. Plus, the steering rack has been binding up quite quickly after some slaloming and i'm trying a quality hydraulic fluid as my first step of trying to fix it. I might need a cooler for it, but i'll see if i can fix it just with fluid at this stage. So power steering doesn't need much either??

hi ppl! need to confirm how many litres of fluid i need for power steering and for my brakes for a R34 (turbo coupe)??? Going Castrol Transmax Z for steering, Motul RBF600 or whatever, for brakes. I know Motul can be obtained relatively cheaply from bike shops but what about the Castrol? Autobarn told me $71 for 4 litres. I'm thinking i won't need 4 litres for power steering even after flushing it?? They also told me $34 for 500ml's for Motul!! cheers! daniel