SS8_Gohan

thought i'd ask in here as opposed to starting a new thread. Midori has some 90mm front pipes now... i've got 80mm ones and not 100% on what mm the catback is... given the increased kw #'s we're putting out with E85 etc... would there be much gain in going to some 90mm front pipes? or is it waste of time unless the rest of the system is 90mm??

that's all well and good... but what about 'HIRISK' (dude, seriously... your username.... there's a word i'm thinking of... can't quite put my finger on it.... ) i have to double check, but in that sale thread, he's selling the Trust turbo's as 'excellent condition'.... kinda different to the 'weren't making any boost' version for the reason to switch to 2530's.

this sale thread worked out well too: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/402419-y-stroll-wen-u-can-roll/page__st__20

i know it doesn't have a RIPS engine in it, but that was 'Plan B' according to the seller... and it's far from a take 26 out and put 30 in - shut bonnet - job. receipts for 2530's being rebuilt?

is JPC where the work was done? if yes i'd be taking it to an 'independent' place to get checked.... plus you need to know EXACTLY what was wrong previously (as much as you can know) - and aren't HKS 2530's discontinued? If so, it would have to be a second hand set of turbos that went on?? nothing major??? Yes 2 turbos not working on an Rb26 is 'nothing major'.... i suppose the labour bill to replace them is also.... 'nothing major. you also don't just "put in" a RIPS RB30... quite a bit of work involved... and if the results come back bad, he's just going to rebuild it.... just like that for the "owners piece of mind"??? at a rep workshop, for a standard 2.6, that's like a 10-12K job

yikes.... what a nasty piece of work he is... fingers crossed for you mate

oh and seen these? slightly more ahh... compact than our solutions

ok, just caught up from like page 3 hahaha as for your suspension, i don't think they'll be too firm if the shocks are up for it. I believe my Arragosta's are 14/12 kg springs which i was absolutely dreading, but really, they're fine on the road. So i reckon you're R-tunes will be fine... in fact, man up... get some silly Jap rate springs in there!

yeah, there's definitely some cheaper options out there now than the Japan stuff. BC, MGT Racing in UK has a 2.8 kit, approx 3500 GBP from memory, then there's Spool (AUD help there as well) - very little info though on the non-Jap 2.8 kits that i could find... although, i was told be a bit wary of the BC stuff...

i was under the impression late 80's, early 90's onwards and you'd be fine? my previous car, 1998 R34 GT-T had completely stock lines, for everything. It's been on E85 for... 4-5 years now? New owner kept it on E85. Not a problem.

how do you test? i've only ever seen E80 - E83 with my GM Ethanol content sensor.... never seen United E85 higher (did see E84 briefly once but settled after 30secs or so at E83) Eflex for me when i used it was always bang on E70 - i made 15rwkw more on E85.

if you're not a purist and don't mind an RB30, speak to Rob @ RIPS NZ, he has engines ready to go from time-to-time, people start projects, don't finish them etc etc... his RB30 builds are super price competitive when you compare to a 2.8 stroker.

By body colour Black 24% Other 18% White 18% Blue 12% Green 12% Silver 6% Grey 6% Gold 6%

going on the results the j-spec search pulled up, there's been two Blue Nur's sold (i don't know how far back the results look) 3.3mil for a 100K km R grade a hefty 5.5mil for a 23K km 4.5 grade

#1 way to stop fogging up.... keep the inside clean!!! i have no issues with fogging because i clean the inside regularly. It's only if it's really cold and i'm really hot, that it will fog a little. Generally not a common combo... All the time you're building up oils on the inside glass, windows down driving will speed this up especially... IMO you don't want to recycle air mode to clear fog. If it starts fogging, and you have recycle air on it's taking the warm air your expelling and circulating that around the car with a cool exterior = fog. I guarantee without A/C, recycle mode will speed up the fogging. As for A/C, yes it does clear fog very quickly but then it comes back just as quick and generally if you have fog issues the last thing you want is to blast the A/C hahaha. I go the complete opposite if need be, i crank the heater (which i'd be wanting to do anyway). It doesn't go away as quick but i find it KEEPS it away, plus you're not needing to run the A/C and all the drawbacks that come with that. I find the heating method finds the balance of temperature better to stop the fogging coming back... But i always have it on fresh air mode, not recycle. If you haven't cleaned your interior glass for a while it will be FILTHY, if it is even SLIGHTLY smeary, your fog problems are hugely amplified. Some people will see this as a bit OTT, but this is what i do and fogging for me is VERY rarely an issue... Get a MF, warm water and dampen the MF. Clean the glass down whilst constantly rinsing the MF. You'll see the water getting dirty. Do that a couple times until the water is clean. Get another clean MF and wipe the glass dry. Now, the last step is to really cut through whatever grime is left (warm water won't do it alone). Get a good glass cleaner like Stoners Invisible Glass and get a Glass MF. Glass specific MF's are very different to paintwork MF"s, but work great (and you'll definitely see them get dirty too). Go over glass with Stoners and glass MF. Finally, wipe down with another clean MF and from here you will not need any sort of 'product' on the interior glass. FI's Glass MF system http://shop.finalins...products_id/210 Final Inspection's glass cleaner isn't out yet, but Waxit sells Stoners http://www.waxit.com...id=213&Itemid=1 Lastly, DO NOT use your chamois or waffle weave drying towel to clean your interior glass AFTER you've washed the car. That's a sure fire way to make them super grimey. You have to have the cleanest possible MF to use on interior glass, anything else and you're just making the problem worse.

cherry picking i see, conveniently skipped over the $388 and $688 options... as per my previous post... - note the emphasis added...you obviously don't really know what you're talking about if you think a FI Transformation detail is "the same with a few less things to others"... did you perhaps miss the bit that says a Transformation details requires 4 days to complete? yep, you're definitely getting less of a product than "others".... i'm not fussed, as i said previously, you're happy paying $109 for a "perfect" service, so there's no point discussing anything else is there? I mean, perfection for $109... can't get much better than that can you i suggest you go over to the Detail Addiction forums and check out the 'Show Off' section for some of FI's work... you'll then understand how detailing is done properly.

your 'mates' don't really know what they're talking about http://finalinspecti...-detailing.html "including clay bar" this is never ever considered an optional extra for a proper detail. Basic detailing 101 I think your idea of perfect would probably be quite different to mine and places like Final Inspection. And a good detail is much more than just about the result when you pick the car up, it's about proper ongoing protection of the paint and trims, and a huge benefit in the maintenance regime; leading to much less swirling etc by the time the next detail is required, which also means you can go for a cheaper service the next time as the paint requires less correction. I opted for FI's Full Metal Jacket for the last detail and it's still going strong, well over a year since it was applied. Still beads and sheets very well and i can still dry my car with water because of it. There is A LOT more to detailing than you may realise....

$1000....errr... where are you getting that from? if you're happy with your $109 VIP car care detail, then really... there's no point in even discussing anyone else. You are comparing a 1970's commondoor to an R35 GT-R. Any decent detailer would probably be tempted to hang up the phone if you asked for a $109 detail INCLUDING interior. Bottom line, there is no-one 'good' (in the sense of products used, finished achieved etc) at the price point. You've found a price you want to pay and you've found a business who's service you like the results of. If you honestly think you'll find a good detailer for $109 you are utterly dreaming. So be happy you've found someone you like at a price you're prepared to pay. tchard - don't go on the $1k price tag for FI, your car would have to be in a terrible state to warrant that sort of detail.

on my GTT i had a Hypergear OP6 Highflow and a R33 Super Dragger , R34 is slightly shorter, so it only needed a little modifications. Mine was very quiet, running a CAT obviously (you're stupid not to) and i THINK there was maybe another section in there that's different to yours. when idling i'd get people asking me if my car was on - but had a nice note, didn't drone and flowed well enough for the situation.

sell our cars back to the Japanese oh well... nice thing to know the Nurs still attract good money... in Japan at least.

jeebus, there were some grade 5, 7-8000km Nurs that went for 6.1-6.6mil yen!!

your best option in Melbourne is Final Inspection (pretty handy for your location tchard) jet2nv - what colour is your car? If you want anything approaching a 'good' job, $109 is not going to cut it with a proper detailer. what's the condition of your paint at the moment? got pics?

hmmm... whiteline, did not even think of them... are they pillowball? not sure what low compliance bushes means, i'm thinking not pillowball?

hmmm... set and forget... i can't imagine the Racepace mod is that cheap though? i might just go adjustable to cover all bases

in terms of changing camber settings though, Racepace stock-mod vs Cusco - isn't it easier to change the Cusco? (not knowing exactly what is involved in the Racepace mod)