SS8_Gohan

old school M5??

it's a freakin east bear convention in here... where's pete? be prepared for holes.... lots of them (if you remove the spoiler). 3 for each upright in the boot lid and 7, yep 7 bolts on EACH quarter when you take the side bits of... don't worry though, they're speed holes, they make the car go faster

ah $100, that sounds good. Any recommended brands/models?? I was thinking of replacing fluid to something like a Redline ATF.... is there anything you specifically use on your/customer cars Trent?

finally!!!!!!! these are now gone!!!

i can't begin to imagine how many heroes have been trying to run that thing at the lights....

cheers for the offer Chris i got it sorted, but i'll prob grab that manual anyway For some reason the programming steps outline above don't work, but unhooking the alarm module AND taking the battery out of the remote at the same time, did work! So i un-hooked the alarm module (the big wide white plug in the back and the smaller one next to it) and left all the little ones attached to the sides. Then took the battery out of my remote. Let the car sit for a bit, then plugged module back in, and put the battery back in the remote. THEN i did the procedure above. Valet button press once, release, press again and HOLD. Press 'arm' on the remote and BINGO!! It locked!! If only it did that WITHOUT having to unhook the alarm module, it would be even better And for some unknown reason, it fixed my 'remote start' issues too. Wouldn't remote start when cold, was told to change the settings from 'voltmetre' to 'tachometre' or something like that, i didn't know how to change that without a bitwriter, but it's working now. Chris, is the 'manual' different to the 'owners guide'. I found that, but doesn't have any real programming instructions in there.... do hope this helps others with similar issues after a flat battery cheers, daniel

get something GT500 like have you budgeted in wide rims and tyres?

^ ahhahaa, i shouldn't laugh... but that's damn funny

5ky: that's because i've been shown the light about car detailing. Bosch RO, Edge buffing pads, the best polished (Menzerna), Aquatouch Ultra-soft MF's. Just haven't splashed the cash on a wax yet... budget didn't quite stretch to the $18,000 Royale wax Granthem: but the financial year hasn't finished yet?

hahaha, shan = "barely redeemed"

i could organise shipping if you like

thanks mate, got it sorted after much drama... and i didn't snap anything!! i'm such a newb

for an R34 mate is dry cell always better than wet? or it's not as black and white as that?

will this stop-over in Melb before the trip to tassie? via the ferry?? if so, Final Inspection for a final detail before Targa, must be done!!! A few layers of Royale will reduce drag like nothing else

As per title, i thought it would be easy, but i can't remove all the god damn plastic bits!! trying to get to my alarm module, and i've unscrewed all the screws under the steering column, and have the 2 halves of the steering column surround separated, but i haven't fully taken them off yet. Do i need to? Found 1 screw below the TCS OFF switch, and i've also unscrewed the bonnet latch (not sure if i needed to do that) But the damn thing seems still to be quite firmly in place!! How do i drop that whole plastic section???? if you have thy knowledge of which i seek, please impart it asap, need to get this alarm thing fixed by tonight if at all possible cheers, daniel

a little side note... how do i remove all the plastic parts under/around the steering wheel?? trying to get to my alarm module... i've taken out all the screws from my steering column surround. Taken out 1 screw to the left (under the TCS OFF switch) I've also taken out the 2 screws holding up the bonnet release latch.... but i can't take the f*cker apart! am i missing more screws, or does the steering column plastic have to come away completely (the 2 halves?)?? please help asap cheers, daniel

hahahahhahahahah, how the fudge did you make that!? hahah

little slow tonight shan an "arch" dude, "ARCH", the dunnydore ain't got no arch across there, it's like a GTT, the bonnet comes down to meet the two "uprights" of the front bumper between the headlights... which is NOT what i'm taking about.. ______ | GTR | ______ | EVO | _______ | VOLVO | |_HOLDEN__| there, does that make sense?

^ that's not exactly old really ok, from the R34 GTR, some Volvo's, Evo 10, R35 GTR... by 1 piece nose/bumper i mean, an "arch" across between the headlights. Perfect example is the R34 GTR "nose"... The Scooby is just a f*cked up front that's all

no worries

^ my goodness, didn't quite realise that sort of potential was available from those mods. tasty

sounds 99.9999999999999999% like the old R34 coil packs issue to me. VERY VERY common for R34's to have 1 or more coil packs to give out. Splitfires are getting stupidly cheap these days, not sure if they've even cracked the $400's?? Anyways, had the exact same problem, got Splitfire coil-packs, problem went away Good upgrade to do anyway, and is actually cheaper than buying brand new OEM Nissan coil packs check the trader sections here for cheap Splitfires. cheers, daniel

would be interested in that part number if it happens to surface anywhere

hahah, noticed this when i first saw the Evo. I'm like, hang on... there's something similar happening with the nose of these cars.... R35 looks heaps better IMO i would go back to 99 to the R34 GTR, or the maybe even a Volvo? For that 1 piece nose/front bumper type style....

bump $70