SS8_Gohan

(dont forget that wheel alignment after install) Now go back that corner and get that nose to the guard rail at apex, nail it but not to much yet get it to the point of where it wants to let go. As you come out dont hook it hard slow and smooth turning, if the rear wants to kick out rear sus may be too soft set on next firmer. Try again till its best can be. Next dont be afraid of those squeeling tyres when your ass wants to go out, start with light steering pressure in oposite direction to counter till you get consistant. Aim for 3 months daily practice till u get really good but time is not important just take ur time and learn ur car safest 4 u and everyone else. Next and cheap again get a cusco torsion bar goes up b4 near radiator support between links, remove link nuts put in place replace nuts. Now when you go around corner you will find you can go 5 - 10ks faster b4 tyres squeeel and it will only cost u about $110 bucks still on a cheap budget:) Now some kiddies will not like this but dont touch that hicass, it only moves 1deg or so out any way unless its been played with (evedent by the fact the warning light has been removed from the dash). To reset back put wheel in a strait ahead postion, take that battery lead off go have a coffie for half an hour. When you put back on and turn things on if its out it will check and reset itself, u will hear ne ne ne clunk as the servo moves and locks back in place. Cheapest wheel alignment ive ever done. Dont be afraid of it either, its there to help that sensor box in the boot behind the seat. It's whats helping u go faster around high speed corners learn to use, it nail that pedal, trust me it likes it other wise uve just got a normal car. Too many people criticise it they dont undestand how it works or havent learnt to use it to advantage, it takes time. "Quote i lost it cause hicass stuffed me up" hog wash, ive had mine for 6 yrs and drive like a ninny lots of fun (opps) but no accidents. Even if it fails again 1deg of movement will really spew u off, bahhh, if they broke rear link more that gutter they slid into the other day. Even if it did that, practice you did b4 will help counter (being the magic word) such a situation should it arise and for both rear wheels to be out it would have to be magic or a good bingle. Ur hicass rack is also doing another great job by stiffening up the rear. Look up rear non hicass brace bar, uve already got a hunk of metal doing that job anyway. If u want ill keep posting, ill go through most things i can think of the cheapest way i can think of to help you beat those better buggers around the track. Trust me, the look on their face is priceless when u stick it to them in your so called under rated standard car. Powers not every thing, an eg of this is the mines gtr. Lookup american touge 3 hot version, i think great example of good balanced car, not to overpowered that kicks, but they also do gtt ohh before i go DONT buy bcnr33 coilovers etc etc even if they fit, the spring rates front to rear are diff front to rear as gtt, only buy direct for gtt ------------------------------------------------------------ Banshee_04, mate thanks for the post/s (honestly) A little hard to understand, but there's definitely some interesting stuff in there and few things that go against the status quo, that's for sure! (read HICAS) Sounds like you've played around with Skylines for a while. You in Australia? Do you have an R34 or another Skyline? thanks for the tips!

haven't read it, just going to "edit" it, see what this actually all says (just punctuation, won't bother with spelling) 3rd time lucky okkkkk sus as good start as any get working 2nd hand coil overs, if you can preferably adjustable if HA (hight adjust). Measure ur car hight of ground & 4 now set same, ive got nismo set u can adjust on car dont need remove anything. If 2nd hand u also need hight adjust spanners x2, dont really need to hard a sping rate as really u will be driving on road as well. Set shocks firmer instead nismo fr 4way rear 8way adjust to start out u, dnt really need 32way adjust to many get some thing cheap and simple that u can grow with till you get experienced & undestand whats going on. Once fitted go find that 35k freeway entrance ramp set on soft and go practice till ur speeds consistant 4 now stay on centre, exit through and as clean as poss (this will serve u later when on track). Now set hard do the same note differance then once good with that try inbetween settings. Keep doing this until u get the right balance for ur car with the highest consistant speed. I will post more when i can this is the really short version too

cars are looking nice, which car wash was this again? not sure if i could got to a car wash meet, i take aaages to wash the car. People would probably think i'm OC if they saw me wash my car (damn it Final Inspection! ) kryzsiu, car's looking good, would be nice just to top it off with some AVS Model 5's

hi banshee, punctuation

so for a car that is street driven, with maybe 2-3 track days a year (and not serious tracking, just a bit of a fun pushing the car) you'd recommned the HPX's over the Ultimates, so say 90% street driven don't care about dust what-so-ever, don't know what the big deal is with people, their pads, and dust??? Just put some wheel wax or some other sealant/wax that will cope with heat, high pressure rinse and it's gone. Then just go for the pads you want and don't worry about something so easily fixed as brake dust

cool change is here, no need for AC

^ sent ya a few PM's mate, not sure if they're getting through? cheers daniel

how do you reckon they stack up against Hawk pads or bendix ultimates?

that is a very generous offer And John, your post was dead set straight forward and informative, was completely following. I hate using ac units, prefer just a fan, i think now i'll definitely just use a fan. Nasty nasty stuff that i didn't even know about, and i would like to think that i'm environmentally conscious too My car's AC system i'm assuming is fine (again, never use it, just put the windows down, and maybe turn it on a for a few seconds once a month as i was told to do that) so i know i won't need a regas (only compliance about 2-3 years ago) but would be keen just to get rid of this nasty R134a (i remember having to get a degas certificate, and my importer told me it was nasty stuff and that it must be degassed in Japan before coming here, yet our rules make sure it's put back in!!! how stupid is that!). When ac systems are flushed and 'degassed', and considering how bad this stuff is, how is it disposed of? Is there a safe way of disposing R134a??

can someone say ROYALE!!! oooooh yeah

if the owner or friends/connections to the owner are reading this, can you please direct this car to www.finalinspection.com.au, and fly Damian up to wash/detail it This car deserves nothing less than Damian's expertise to bring this car back as it sounds like it's positively filthy! Seriously though, if it indeed gets a respray (soooo soooo wrong, just vinly the f*cker!) then get Damian to do the final detail before it goes to the public, there's only one man for the job

assuming it's the Donut King car?? But i guess there are a million other reasons why others would be here as well... but yes, PICSORBAN!

hi, does this gas work in say home air conditioning units? or is that a whole different kettle of fish? considering how power hungry ac units are, it would be nice to make them as "friendly" as possible, especially with R134a being 10,000 times more potent than CO2 in terms of warming!

if anyone has splashed the cash for everything (lines and pads) for a GTT, let us know your thoughts

ooooo that's the RX7 concept isn't it??? ahahaha, this is getting ridiculous! Come on V-Spec and V-Spec II or Evo, or whatever the f*ck I feel the hay-day of 90's japanese sport coupes returning. Let's hope they don't go overboard like last time and create about 20 cars each for the same market segment

for the kitchen smoke alarms, just grab a magazine or something similar and "fan" the smoke alarm, it will soon dissipate the smoke around the sensors and will turn it off. Then you don't have to constant take batteries in and out and possibly risk forgetting to put them back in

yeah still around mate had some people quite keen, but haven't quite worked out for various reaons drop me a pm if ya want cheers, daniel

that colour is stunning.... by coarse metallic, do you mean the chips are just... bigger and more varied? how exactly do you get the candy effect?

for one, how would you know if the exhaust you made was actually a performance UPGRADE?? you could EASILY make a part that would be detrimental to performance. I remember a mag article ages ago where they were playing around with a heap of different options for a Type R exhaust, in the end, they couldn't improve on the factory flow. They could sneak a little more top end but response suffered. You think a company like Mines is just going to go "oh that fits, it's made of titanium, it's going to be aaaawesome!!" F*ck no, they'd have real world and dyno testing to make sure they've created something worthy of the Mines name. I wouldn't think for second that, given the amount of development time this car had, it was incredibly easy to go and better what Nissan has done in a few weeks. Of course in time the after market parts will offer some serious upgrades, but it takes time and on a car as advanced as the R35 GTR, you're not just going to slap titanium bits on and live in la la land thinking you've just created the ultimate car

bad example, but Altia had the R34 before it was released to develop the 'aero kit' options for the when the car was released. You could buy the parts themselves direct from 'Altia' but most people for some reason know it as a the 'nismo' option kit; when in fact the Nismo kit is entirely different. Autech, i believe, have had cars early and worked in conjunction with Nissan before as well. These cars went on sale in japan last month only, you think you could develop parts for such a car as the new GTR AND to the standard of Mines, in a few weeks?? Mines and MCR, and who knows who else, Top Secret, HKS, would have had some GTR's early i would imagine. Mines obviously had 1 early

are those tests just a waste of time?? and they'll tell you you need a million things done to the car? i've heard nothing but the absolute worst things about pedders, and even seen websites previous franchise owners have started to share the word on how crap a place pedders is, so i've been put off from anything pedders since then. But a 32 point inspection for $16 sounds good in theory....

i know both wil be great days, but i'm not sure i can afford to go to both that's all decision is whether to go to the 'safer' day (as in training) or go to the 'fun' day.... can i just say i'll get car control training on this track day? How does insurance go for these kinda days? if you break it, you pay for it?

all that work and you went with 4 door/non turbo halogen lights??? looks hot otherwise, good luck!!

washed and maintained at arguably the best detailer in the southern hemisphere (Damian @ Final Inspection) nice choice! You on the FI forums?? for white, got some nice gloss happening there in some of those shots... hard to get from white. What wax is/was it wearing? that's an impressive list of mods, sounds like a screamer of a car. Good luck

of course their fast out with this stuff. Nissan would have either given them a GTR to work with aaaages ago or given them detailed schematics/blueprints, whatever of the car to develop stuff like exhausts, There's been a history of Nissan working with tuners/developers, Mines would have been at it for a while