SS8_Gohan

i am leaning in the Cusco direction. 1) seem to be the cheapest of the Jap stuff and... 2) like you said, there seems to be a modification option with them that Ash mentioned as well, and given that my mechanical work is done by Racepace, i've got someone who's done it before... considering all the other suspension work done on the car... i wonder why Midori didn't put in adjustable upper arms for camber changes? it's almost if they did it all, found camber to be 'x' and said, yep, that's fine, no need for adjustments. But -2.5 all around is a bit much for a predominantly street driven car i would have thought...

ahhh... interesting... this i did not know.... i'm not particularly fussed about legalities and i don't do many km's, so hopefully wear and tear won't be so much of an issue. Why exactly are they supposedly more dangerous than rubber bushes? there a difference between rose-jointed and pillowball? looks like i've got a bit of both going on... BCNR33 Front Lower Control Arms MIDORI Development Pillow ball tension rods (castor rods – rose jointed) NISMO reinforced Upper link/Upper Control Arm Bushes MIDORI development Rear Pillow Ball Upper Links bush replacement (rose joint bushes in upper control arms) MIDORI Lower Arm Pillow ball bush replacement MIDORI rear sub-frame collars NISMO upgraded rear sub-frame bushes

found another jap brand, KTS - looks like quality but price is $$ - $485 for upper rear arms! http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists/pricelist_kts.htm

ok. bringing this back to make a decision on which arms to get. Once i've sussed this out, i think i might get some bolton spacers to get the stance bang on - 10.5 +15 just don't cut it on a 34 R and do i only need to do 'upper' arms front and rear? i wouldn't want to be changing camber from a lower arm? (if you can even do that...) Ok, so options seem to be... Driftworks: Front (~$250)- http://www.driftworks.com/shop/r33-and-r34-nissan-skyline-front-upper-camber-arms.html Rear (~$170)- http://www.driftworks.com/shop/driftworks-camber-arms-s14-s15-r33.html not really feeling the orange but i've heard good things over at gtr.co.uk as well - they do a full R34 GTR kit as well for $700 odd. Hardrace: For some reason, i don't think they do front arms?? can't seem to find any for a 34 Rear ($175) - http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_32&product_id=217 SRI (found these when looking through the Just Jap site) Front ($220) - http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17665&cat=396&page=2 Rear ($149) - http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16598&cat=396&page=3 Ikeya Formula: Front (~438) - http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/front-upper-link Rear (~$390) - http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-rear-camber-adjuster-upper-arm-set-nissan-26495 why does the Nengun rear upper arm pic look different? http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/rear-upper-arms Kazama AUTO: Rear (~420) - http://www.rhdjapan.com/kazama-auto-rear-upper-arm-nissan-58403 Can't find link for front Cusco: Front ($314) - http://www.nengun.com/cusco/adjustable-front-upper-arms Rear ($376) - http://www.nengun.com/cusco/adjustable-rear-upper-arms So as per normal, the Jap stuff is a lot more $$. I take it i want to be getting pillow ball arms? Should i just grab something local (Hardrace etc) or fork out for the Jap stuff? Is there actually any difference between the Jap parts and the cheaper "aussie" stuff?

so where are you and where is the car getting tuned? just get a couple jerry cans, say 3,. 1 in front, 2 in passenger footwells, that's 65L say (always can squeeze a little more in) - should be heaps for tuning purposes. And once you've emptied the first one, go and get some 98 to start mixing it down for the rest of the maps.

geez Pete, looks like the owners after you managed to turn the car into a time machine!! look at the kilometres! http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1998-12970991?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=1&eapi=2&__N=1246+1247+1252+1282+1216&find=east%20bear|CarAll&silo=Stock&num=15&sort=default warning to potential buyers, someone has done some fiddling....

car is for sale again! http://www.carsales....15&sort=default Would love to see it return to SAU - better yet, someone bring it back to Melbourne!!

also check Charli Batisti

ok, maybe i'll do the adjustable camber arms first, get that set then take measurements and order the spacers

thanks for the thread, very timely in terms of figuring out what sized spacer you need, do you need to get the camber set to what you want first and then measure? i think from last alignment the car had about neg 1.5-2 all around but if i were to get those numbers a little more street friendly, i'm thinking if i measure now it would suggest i need a bigger spacer than i actually do because of the increased camber?

yep, went to Canberra, and still with same person but it's for sale now.

Just a heads up, you can't advertise on SAU unless you pay for that privilege.

how much are you prepared to pay? I would think Mi-Colour has had some experience with TV2, and DT probably has sprayed something in TV2 Don't forget, the colour itself is very popular for non-GTR's as well... so you might find other workshops who have worked with the colour. What are you thinking of spending? that will be a big determinate of where you go...

seriously, do not bother with anything other than Splitfires, will be your safest bet out of all options. lowest failure rate of all by far IMO

My old car is up for sale if anyone is interested, full genuine East Bear kit with R34 GTR V-Spec rear diffuser - great looking car if i do say so myself check car sales.

Suds = useless and mean nothing. People have been made to "think" that unless it 'suds up', you don't have enough or it's not a good solution. As Jonno34 pointed out, what you want is a pH neutral solution with high lubricity. Water down some of FI's PPBS (Paint Pampering Body Shampoo) and run it through your finger tips, even diluted you can still tell the lubricity is very high. I also wouldn't be putting my shampoo solution in a bucket either. The best way IMO is to have your buckets full of clean, hot water. Do a pre-rinse with PPBS solution and hot water and then i wash the car with a spray pack of washing solution. So as i go around i put a few sprays on the panel, a few sprays on the washing mitt. This way you have even coverage of washing solution a;ready on the panel you're about to clean. I use an old brake-cleaner pump-pack as the pre-rinse dispenser and then an old 500ml FI trigger bottle for when i'm doing the main wash. Use less product, nice big even spray from the pack gives you good coverage of the panel and you keep the rinse water the way it should be, clean rinse water (well for as long as you can)

which fuel? United or Caltex? flex-fuel is a setup allowing you to use any mixture of E85/unleaded - E-Flex is caltex's high percentage ethanol fuel

feature on StanceNation.com http://www.stancenat.../organic-metal/ there's a few more pics if you go to the link

like a Uni wind tunnel or something? surely would be hideously expensive to hire? unless we can make it a "project" for some uni student

United E85 has varied between E82-E84 (haven't actually seen E85) - Caltex was bang no E70 every time. If you want to be ripped off buying drum E85 for 'piece of mind' go ahead... but there is no way you'd have a tune that would matter if the E% varied a couple percentage points. the price difference between 200L of 'special' E85 and pump E85 is about $300-$308, you've basically just paid for an ethanol sensor there. Don't even need to have setup for flex fuel, you could just use it to check if you really wanted, not that you would need to though...

get a room!

it's not a cop thing why i'm getting delete pipes made. They're Nismo AFM's going for $600 odd and i'm not using them.... seems absolutely pointless to have them sitting there, doing nothing.

not really thinking about it from that point of view, was purely thinking about it from a $$ pov, delete pipes made vs gutted standard AFM's - i think AFM's would be the last of the problems with the boys in blue. You'd be unlucky to have a cop know about unplugging and running the car from what i've heard *touch wood*, but then again, it is Victoria dude, if you have them lying around and don't want them, i'd be happy to take them off your hands. Never hurts to have a collection of stock parts

yeah, that's what i was thinking. Means less money i might potentially spend! hahaha, you first yeah, now that i think about it, that's probably the best option isn't it. Buy dead afm's or cheap stockies, and gut them... what would stock GTR AFM's cost? $50? oh well.

just organising some AFM delete pipes for my R, but was wondering if there is a less restrictive way of planning the intake from the pods now that i don't have to run the AFM's? ie, do you have more flexibility to do something 'better' with the intake piping? or is there no real gains there? (i'm thinking there isn't really anything there worth the hassle, but thought i'd ask anyway) pic of engine bay