SS8_Gohan

or if you used a broker, they should have known as well

$185 sounds like a steal! The other advanced course was a bit more $$ from memory, and this is at Sandown too! When do we have to pay by?

speaking from experience, how definite is the 1 - 2 weeks time frame? Compliance and time frames don't work well together, i find a factor of 10 fits the real world. maybe a import yard/dealership could help? maybe one of the SAU traders? i don't know if 'all blitz' is still selling cars EDIT: by selling, i mean, possibly has an un-owned R33 GTR that could be given up for a few weeks

kas, representing with the Stage 3

yeah, i think some dealers were making up their own "waiting lists" of sorts, they don't know it's coming, but are happy to take peoples money and create an artificial list that may mean jack when they get sold here. but if they know something we don't, then cool. I'd put a deposit too, if i could afford one

Rota in the uk make copies of rims, and i've seen a few pics of Rota's broken on the track. Whilst being rare, you do run the greater chance of something braking when it comes to these cheaper rims. But yeah, as said, if you're not tracking the car, prob doesn't matter too much. I've got some AVS (advan=top jap quality) rims with good tyres going if you're interested

if you find out anything, let us know, interested in the annodized option....

hi guys just fitted my new 18's, just wondering about balance and alignment issues. I got the rims balanced the other day, but haven't had an alignment yet as they couldn't get my car up the friggen ramp thing, too low they reckon (despite it being at least 1-2 cm's above legal height) anyways, on dead flat roads, the car doesn't pull in any particular direction, it seems to drive quite straight. Should i get an alignment only if it's pulling, or should i get it done anyway, just because they're new rims on the car? cheers, daniel

killer thread, just what i was looking for. I was looking in like bunnings and shit, but screen door place def sounds the trick. All the "auto" stuff is cheap, and the black fades and looks like crap. so most people have got free cut-offs from the screen places? anyone got pics?

check sig, they are now for sale. Just haven't started a thread for them yet cheers

when are the AutoSalons held throughout the year? what months? like everyone else, have plans which are semi-done, so might be keen on up-coming MAS come on US Fed reserve rate cut!!

R34 gtr has a deeper red by the looks of it.

Well for about 1 month, there wouldn't be any polishing action, paint too soft, but you can apply some wax. As far as i know, you should stay clear of synthetic waxes or sealants, and go with a carnauba wax. Reason being is that carnauba breathes, synthetic doesn't. That was my understanding. Hit up FI for some killer carnauba's... Dodo is great new range of waxes available recently at FI. Pete is pimpin' Onyx at the moment (swissvax) Zymol has an $18,000 tub of wax if you're keen

Carrera GT beater?? my gosh... that's really setting the bar high. Excited by the prospect of this car SMASHING a 997 Turbo, but man, it's going to be one helluva car to be able to do that. so freakin' exciting!! can't wait for Top Gear!

doesn't the 911 turbo awd vary power front/back? or is this different to "variable torque"

just a general question. What's the supply of bilstein shocks like at the moment?

F.I. is truly a level above anyone else (if not a few levels) yet his prices are just as competitive as those doing nastier washing/detailing jobs. So it's an absolute no brainer to use his services. Oh and it's D-A-M-I-A-N Got waffle? EDIT: i'll add some tips for those who have bought the waffle weave... - Fold it half length ways, then again. This helps apply even pressure to the panel, and reduces the chances of pressure spots to induce swirling when drying. - Drying your windows first as the WWDT works better when slightly damp. So give the windows a quick going over, and then use the above tip on the rest of the car. - Like washing, avoid overlapping motions. Paint isn't like fabric, it's either wet or dry. So 1 or 2 passes of the WWDT leaves the paint 90-95% dry, no need to keep drying a panel that will dry on it's own a few seconds after the last pass. - With a long, thickish WWDT, you could probably dry half a bonnet/roof in 1-2 passes, then repeat on the other side. Again, minimal passes is going to reduce swirling, and also travelling in one direction as opposed to the usual Karate Kid 'wax on, wax off' motion, you will minimise marks

ran the dyno runs back-to-back? is turbosmart the knock-off one?

7.8mil new, Justin, how much does a 997 Turbo go for new in japan?

sup mate, car is look very shmicko you got some black/CF going on with the spoiler uprights do ya?

^ have you read ANY of the pages in this thread?

assuming premiums can go up depending on the stats/claims/write-offs etc for the past year for that type of car, or the category of driver? so it's maybe not you who's contributed to the rise, just those who are similar to you?? just a guess, assuming insurance is all about probability, etc.

^ wow, possible to have that again in english?

unless you're putting A LOT of elbow grow ease in at the polish stage, you won't bring the paint back without an RO. Paint cleansers are CHEMICAL cleansers, won't do anything for swirls/scratches, and they won't act as a polish as most don't have any abrasives. Hence, WON'T un-dull the paint. NXT wax being a carnauba based wax needs time to cure before applying another layer, otherwise you are just wasting product. Pointless to go over the car twice, straight after each other. You need an RO, the Bosch PXE400a or something like that, is a greater starter. Bout $150 from bunnings. Next, you'll need good buffing pads. I highly recommend the 'Edge' brand pads. Without seeing pics of your car, you'll most likely need the full Yellow/Green/Blue/White range of pads (that's in order from highest cutting power to lowest). You'll also need some good polishes. Poor Boys make some decent ones, Menzerna are your best bet though as they are the only company to have all their abrasives at a uniform size, and contain no fillers (read Scratch X) Really depends on what finish you're after, if you're not too fussed you could hit the car with a medium stage polish pad (Blue) with a relatively low cutting power polish. And then finish off with a finishing pad (White) with a finishing polish, say Menzerna's Final Finish. Being white, marks aren't anywhere near as noticeable as a black car, so you can get away with a lot more. After polishing, you have to wash to remove the polish residue, and THEN you can wax. If you're using a carnauba based wax, you can't re-apply straight away, you have to let it cure. Some sure faster than others, roughly 48-72 hours as a very rough guide. So after a couple days, wash the car again, then re-wax. Get about 3-4 layers on, and it should last you a good few months. That's if you don't destroy the wax by using the soap solutions at the car washes. The only thing to use at the car washes is the High Pressure water. Everything else is just plain dodgy, can stain rubbers, strip wax... etc. good luck EDIT: forgot to mention clay bars, very important if you're paint is rough feeling (which it sounds like it would be) and greatly improves the polishing/end results. Clay Magic make great clay bars.

shite load of options, thanks guys! i think it's probably a good excuse to learn how to dismantle the car anyway, as opposed to hunting for someone to pay to do it. i'll post pics if i get around to destroying the trim, so at least the 34 owners can get an idea if they don't know how to. I'd imagine the skylines are fairly similar anyway.