SS8_Gohan

Hi y'all Located: Melbourne Thinking of ditching my AVS Model 5's, 17" Silver. Wrapped in Advan Neova tyres, 235's front, 255's rear. I believe the rims are 17 x 8 and 17 x 9, not 100% sure. Front tyres are quite worn, rears still have some meat left. Need to check, but i believe 3 rims are fine, 1 has some scuffs/scratches... here's a crappy pic in the mean time... anyone like these at all? cheers, daniel

ditto

james, forget youtube.com get some HD into ya http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/transformers.html

hmm... interesting thread. picking up tomorrow the following (some stuff i've already got) Bosch RO Edge polishing pads menzerna polishes (power gloss, intensive polish, final finish) OCW wax (optimum car wax) part synthetic/carnauba. Sooo easy to use. Spray bottle Clay magic blue Aquatouch MF (microfibre) (for buffing polish/wax) Aquatouch MF washmit Waffle Weave drying towel (MF) Final Inspection car shampoo Can't go wrong with these brands. Zaino Zymol Swissol Menzerna Polylack (great sealants) P21s (some good products, P21s wax, paint cleanser) Detailing products can get VERY pricey, but there are lots of great products around for mortal prices. Just read the first few pages, and man is there some mis-information. For nutter saying it was stupid to wait for overnight after applying a wax, most carnauba waxes have curing times, ie you HAVE to wait before layering. Carnauba waxes look better after they've been layered, so again to that nutter saying why put wax ontop of a wax, well, to achieve greater depth and gloss Some waxes add a nice glow, with extra depth, some are just clinical in their clarity. The Polylack sealants are like that, will make your metallic flakes really POP and the clarity will be insane, but some people don't like that. So you top the sealant with a carnauba wax, layer it a few times and get the great deep/wet/gloss look. Killer on black cars. Haven't read through the whole thread, but the first page alone was full of mis-information

hard to see from those scans, but are those guages not quite the flushest of fits?

^ I thought a lot of cars, the rear guards just have bigger gaps than the front? so you could lower your car evenly all around, but the back still "looks" higher", but it's just the guard is cut a bit higher? Dunno, that's just what i thought... before i PM SK, just wondering for those that have received goods, roughly how long did it take after you paid? cheers, daniel

i'm not really sure R34's follow most the logic we have on these forums. Was speaking to a guy on the gtr.co.uk forums, with a gtt, running 18 x 9.5 +28mm (i think) all around, he said "slight" scrubbing up front on full lock. Guards NOT flared i wonder if R34's can fit slightly bigger than what we think

i got a cheaper quote with Vigil (very similar type of company to shannon's, also based in Melb), but a few little better things with shannon's such as agreed value. So i told shannon's i had a better quote, and the guy said we can do this... and that's all we can do. He was very uninterested, not the usual enthusiast type people i usually get. so yeah, i asked for a better price saying i had a better quote. Now on about $1390 per year. 23, no bad history, R34 GT-T. Ryno won't insure you if you haven't owned a hi-performance car previously (makes sense)

if it's being detrimental to my car, then the care factor is f*cking huge. Couldn't think of anything worse that to intentially create mechanical problems to my car

i gots most the tracks from the original movie soundtrack... STAN BUSH FTW!!! and who can forget... KICK AXE (what a band name!!! :laughing-smiley-014: )

isn't there a decent weight saving to be had when removing HICAS? another reason people get the lock bars? because that was what i was using to justify getting a lock bar...

so is it bad for anything? bad for the turbo? EPA-able?

without hijacking... PM ftw marcus! i'd like details

rule 1: Trex101 advice is a MILLION times more valid than mine. mate, if you can get some GC 0w30, go nuts! afaik, step above the Mobil 1 0w40 this too thin stuff is crap. Trex101, khunjeng, REALLY know their stuff. It's 110% fine... don't worry about what your local mechanic says

DECIM8, i put Mobil (not Mobile ppls!!) in my R34, 62K km's on the clock. Mobil 1 0w40, considering are cars are newish, it's fine to go this thin, although it's not that thin. Maybe running a bit smoother, hard to tell, but toned down the lifters a bit, which was nice. good oil to start with. Will try German Castrol next or Redline, will prob give the GC a shot. I don't think 5w50 is what you're after. Get 0w40

got some pics of your car you could put up Howie? i'm thinking GTR alloys might be a good idea, in terms of a reasonably priced forged rim

^ hahaha, scary

i've heard it's not the best to run the same width rim all the way around? but then again, factory GTT rims are 7.5"... maybe it refers to when you're getting quite wide, like 9" or is it that as long as you have wider TYRES rear to front, it's ok? i suppose this is coming from a steering/handling stand point...

so 9" fits at the front... hmm. what about 18 x 9 +18 or +21, not the best offset, but would it be OK? wrxhoon, are your rims just rims or rims/tyres? are GTR rims forged?

^ get a friend to film it, and then put it on YouTube - sure fire winner!!

did you get my PM? i took mine off - fishing line is your friend

i was under the impression it was FULL synthetic, or it's not the best quality you can put into your car. So in other words, go with full synth, you don't want mineral. I put MObil 0w-40 (i think) in my car last service. I believe the RB's have fairly noisy lifters to begin with, but it did quiet them down a bit. R34, turbo, 60K km's. As far as i know from this thread, and what others have told me, you WANT full synthetic in your car. Mobil 1 is a really good choice, there is better, but it's a very solid starting point.

all euro start with V maybe the guy with the M3 really likes the M3 GTR? monster of a car

not an R anything not a Skyline.. right, get that out of the way. Not a chance it will be $100k, if it is, Nissan will lose copious amounts of money and it should just take home the Bang For Buck award... FOREVER! (at that price) I've always said, 911 Turbo beater, for half the price. So you're looking $150k-$175k. It will be too much of a bullet to price at $100k. Too much technology, R+D, etc, etc... I think we'll be VERY lucky to see it around $150k M3, RS4, some of the competition. Are priced around $160-$170k (referring to the up-coming M3) - both cars has 300kw+, with the GTR around.. what 350kw. So i think this will be the main competition (respecitve to price), and priced according.

is this ok for an R34? EDIT: nevermind, saw the (33gts-t) in brackets... oh well