SS8_Gohan

keep it on the low mate i think the price will prob scare most people (including myself) off anyway... i think it looks good with the stock GTT spoiler... i dunno, something bout the GTR spoiler on black GTR's, looks bigger?? i know that seems weird...

that's a friggen steal!!! my east bear front bar retails for more than double that just on it's own! if it's as hot as you say it is, and the price stays like that... sounds like you're on a winner... hehehe, nice call thaka seems like east bear have done some work, check their site mate waiting to hear back from powerplay

can i come on the 4th to 5th March GOR cruise ash?

am i understanding it right, in that there is no NUMBER limit for this group buy, but just a time limit... as in payment by 4th august?

oooo, ooo, do you take credit card??

^ ? $480 seems like a real good deal if it includes the springs, not just labour who gave you this price? and what springs? how much was the blitz exhaust if you don't mind me asking?

what is knock exactly? keep reading it... and how do you "see" it? i don't have anything but stock guages in my GTT, actually... car is dead stock besides diff 17" rims and front bumper.

if TNT is paying... just trying to think if Nissan had one from factory... always can get a dealership to order one in.... but yeah, powerplay should be able to get you what you need.

you mean this link?? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...treme&st=20 From SydneyKid "A/F ratios are based on weight, not volume, hence the need for specific gravity of the fuels. Moving on...............we have a new project car, an R33GTST that is in need of some TLC. One of the recent upgrades was a Power FC. As most people are aware, the default ignition maps are a little advanced for Optimax, Ultimate or Vortex 98. Not as bad as they used to be for 95 ron fuels, but still a tad. Obviously I will tune it properly eventually , but we have a few mods to go yet and I don’t have the time to tune it multiple times. So the idea was to stick the Power FC in and run it on the default maps for a couple of weeks. On Optimax and Ultimate (didn’t try Vortex) it was reaching knock of 60+ up our usual test hill in 4th gear as logged on the datalogit. The dash warning was also flashing frequently, as it is set for 60, in normal day to day driving around. When the tank was just about empty this week, we filled it up with Optimax Extreme (@ 5 cents a litre more than Optimax). Several runs up the hill and we are not seeing knock over 10. And zero dash warnings in 3 days of normal driving. Now that is very worthwhile, there is not enough Optimix Extreme around yet for me to tune it exclusively for 100 ron, but it sure will be a useful for the odd track day or run down the ¼. I will monitor the effects of the ethanol on the fuel lines, o’rings and seals over the next few weeks. The injectors and fuel pump will have to come out shortly so I will check their condition as well. I am not anticipating any problems, but it is still worth checking. cheers:)"

^ with what you've got under the hood? never been, not sure if i'm that interested... i think i like a track with turns...

i don't have the SAU sticker on my car.... anymore... i kid... was not driving last night haven't even put the damn thing on yet! gotta clean my windows...

if it's a 4 digit pin won't all buttons be used equally? hence equal wear?

sent ya a pm. found the valet button too, was right next to the toggle switch... doh!

hahaha, gets fiddly hey? that's why i went with the made-to-fit in the end... pm 'ADDICTED2R34s'... i'm pretty sure that's the username, he might be interested.. good luck!

what happens if we miss this one as well? just found these threads tonight...

yeah, i got the East Bear front... waiting on them to get off their asses and get the skirts, lower skirts happening... only have a rear bar at the moment... (for 2 door)

that dude is a bit of a retard

not many nice kits for the 34 unfortunately

great interview!! man... it's sooo nice to see an import enthusiast portrayed in a postive light like that... as opposed to the retards the "current affairs" shows get, "i've done everything, fishies, doughies, figure of 8's"... f*cking figure of 8's?!!!?!?!?! *sigh* great work

copy/paste from other thread... there is no red light?? i found the manual and there seems to be a toggle switch (which i have) and ANOTHER switch, but a 'push-in' switch, which i don't think i have. i'm starting to think it's more a valet thing, but all i've got is the toggle switch... i've have a BLUE LED inside the car, that flashes when armed... i do have a push button type thing, which seems more like the valet button according to the manual, but the only thing i can think of is a button that is pressed down when the bonnet is closed. But i think that's more to do with tripping the alarm if the bonnet is opened?? i just changed the battery, but had been jump starting the car quite a lot, was still fine then. I was in africa for a bit of june and pretty much all of July, with the car never turned on in that time. Jumped the car when i got back to get a new battery, and that's when the alarm packed it in. Even when i jumped the car after a month, and locked the car when i parked it outside the workshop the alarm was working then. It's definitely the change over to the new alarm that has caused the issues. I found a thing in the manual referring to code hopping. It says that, and i quote... "...However, if the remote has been pressed many times out of range of the vehicle, or the battery has been removed, it may fall out of sync with the control unit and fail to operate the system. To re-sync the remote simply press the lock button several times within range of the vehicle. The alarm will automatically re-sync and respond to the transmitters normally." Now i went out tonight to do this, i pressed the lock button i don't know how many times standing right next to the car. I pressed the lock button quickly like 10 times, pressed it slowly (so it would beep at me after each press) about 5-6 times in a row, held the lock button down, everything... i 99% confident i've ruled out the 'sync' problem, because i definitely pressed the lock button several times within range of the vehicle. I don't know if it has a backup battery. In regards to the "programming" I found the part of the manual about it, nothing about PIN and it's just really to program the handheld unit, eg when the alarm goes off, does the remote beep or does it vibrate? Stuff like that, programming turbo timer times, etc... i found nothing about a PIN or any reference to the system not responding. I did msg my alarm installer but haven't heard anything back from him yet. Will probably call tomorrow, i might msg Danny as well... any other thoughts ppl's? it's a Viper 791VX, seems like every man and his dog has one... chinny

i just changed the battery, but had been jump starting the car quite a lot, was still fine then. I was in africa for a bit of june and pretty much all of July, with the car never turned on in that time. Jumped the car when i got back to get a new battery, and that's when the alarm packed it in. Even when i jumped the car after a month, and locked the car when i parked it outside the workshop the alarm was working then. It's definitely the change over to the new alarm that has caused the issues. I found a thing in the manual referring to code hopping. It says that, and i quote... "...However, if the remote has been pressed many times out of range of the vehicle, or the battery has been removed, it may fall out of sync with the control unit and fail to operate the system. To re-sync the remote simply press the lock button several times within range of the vehicle. The alarm will automatically re-sync and respond to the transmitters normally." Now i went out tonight to do this, i pressed the lock button i don't know how many times standing right next to the car. I pressed the lock button quickly like 10 times, pressed it slowly (so it would beep at me after each press) about 5-6 times in a row, held the lock button down, everything... i 99% confident i've ruled out the 'sync' problem, because i definitely pressed the lock button several times within range of the vehicle. I don't know if it has a backup battery. In regards to the "programming" I found the part of the manual about it, nothing about PIN and it's just really to program the handheld unit, eg when the alarm goes off, does the remote beep or does it vibrate? Stuff like that, programming turbo timer times, etc... i found nothing about a PIN or any reference to the system not responding. I did msg my alarm installer but haven't heard anything back from him yet. Will probably call tomorrow, i might msg Danny as well... any other thoughts ppl's? it's a Viper 791VX, seems like every man and his dog has one... chinny

those rims are standard for the 32 V-Specs aren't they? EDIT: interesting one, this one. Prestige was selling it as a V-Spec II and i think J-Spec were rightly pointing out that it was only a V-Spec.... hmmm

damn the brighton BP is expensive, south rd and hampton? i use the bluff road one... yeah, i'm not one of those filler up types, so i just chuck in 20 litres, here and there... so i'd be getting these scratchies constantly, but nothing, and yeah, sometimes given 4-5 at a time. The promotion has finished by the way.

i had a toggle switch hidden away for valet mode, should i flick in the opposite way or just flick on/off? i have found the manual, but gotta be up in 3.5hrs (now 2am) so can't be f*cked checking now... i was thinking bout flicking the valet switch about... well let you guys know what the score is tomorrow, thanks for taking the time to reply, appreciate it

can they prove anything though? besides the fact his name is at Vic Roads for a silver XR8 with orange stripes?