SS8_Gohan

in simple terms, i've always thought of double clutching as a longer period between each gear change, hence, less accelerating. Why spend more time changing gears? doesn't make sense at all :confused: I think SydneyKid explained it very well. When i see someone taking the Mines R34 GTR out for a spin, or any track battle of ANY turbo car, and see someone "double clutching" (as they have a cam view of the pedals) i will come back to this thread and say i'm wrong. But as long as the crazy nutcases in Japan are flying around in beasts of cars like the Mines R34 GTR, and shifting "normally" i will continue to think of "double cluthing" as something that belongs, and should stay in, the Fast and the Fubarb. cheers

Thanks dude, but i think i'm going to give the whole GT-T rear spoiler a miss. Realistically i will only need it for a relatively short amount of time, so i'm deciding to go the dorifto look, or something else. thanks everyone for help! cheers!

SII R34 -Darker rims (GTR Colour) -More Torque (bout 20nm's more, maybe a touch more) -Different LSD (Viscous as opposed to Helical) -Two tone steering wheel -Two gear knob (all interior diff shown in the pics) -Different Front bar -Factory metal pedals, racing type. That's about it i think. I would classify the extra torque and different LSD as significant. cheers.

i know you're prob wanted to give advice on everything Sydney Kid , but i was just wondering what you think of the 3 Stage idea? Dumb idea? Or should i just throw everything in at the same time, one large hit? Some ppl have already said do it bit by bit, so you get use to each modification, but i haven't even driven a Skyline before so i guess i won't have the standard handling to compare it with anyway. cheers.

clay bars, lamb this, caraubo wax that... bah! I use a scotch brite thing, the green and yellow things, use the green side on my Pulsar Now THAT gets the dirt out.. ..... along with the paint :uhh:

yeah, GTR? for some reason i thought you were like 16 or 17, hehe, don't know why

hey darkstar were you the one that nearly hit the wall in a white soarer? i saw a vid of the calder park night and there was a white soarer which i'm pretty sure nudged the wall it did look like noahs ark should have been waiting in pit lane tho, was rather wet i thought with drifting, you have shitty banged up cars anyway? That's the point, rock in something you don't care a lot about cos you know it's envitable that somethings is going to get dinged. And what little is spent, is on the stuff you can't visibly see... Well as some ppl can't understand drift, i can't understand flooring the crap out your car in a straight line either - so that's why my first mod on my R34 is going to be suspension for a real track (one with corners) but if this is just starting out, could be a good way to become pro at a form of motorsport? Not many know how to do it properly, if you can be one of those few ppl while the sport is still in it's infancy in this country, maybe you can get your foot in the door early and be part of something pretty cool? cheers

Ok, information overload, but i read the R33 article, and the Project R34 one (not a lot of suspension info in that one), here's kinda what i followed... In terms of the rear end of the car: - HICAS is not your friend, and should be removed/bypassed. - There is problem with the rear sub-frame, referring to the mounts?? Not sure on that one.. - Toe in under braking is good, and bushes can be used to control toe in - Negative camber at the rear is problem when lowering, -1.75 normal(?) but can get to -2.5 after lowering. I'm not sure if i read this right, but is the rear camber factory adjustable to a certain extent? - Definitely need camber kit if using lowered springs. - Whiteline has a rear traction kit, to tune the rear end? Ok now the front... - Front castor kit, adds up to +1.5 degree of caster. This replaces hydro-elastic standard bush (this is from the handling plack i believe). - Two upper transverse links have quite soft rubber bushes. Replace bushes with specifically designed urethan bushes. - Changes to static caster/toe settings (?) - Used to fine tune behaviour of rear end or the amount of oversteer. A car is faster with a mild oversteer tendency. So i gather you want a bit of oversteer. So that brings us to shocks/springs. - 25mm lowered springs is about all the standard shocks can handle? - Slightly higher spring rate compensates for reduced wheel travel. - Shocks must be matched to springs - so shocks have a higher rate? Then swaybars.. - Fine tune handling - R33 whiteline swaybars fit fine for a R34 But in the Project R34 it did say that the R34 required completely different springs to what they have on the R33. Ok, so i'm kinda piecing together all the different suspension components, which then begs the question, what order do i do all of this?? Here is what i kinda gather makes a fairly logical progression. Stage 1: - Shocks and springs, as it seems things like castor/camber/toe in, etc are dependant on this? - So start with this. Does Whiteline only make springs? Cos it said they used Bilstein shocks, so the use other companies for shocks or they make their own as well? Stage 2: - Castor/Camber kit. New bushes, um... Toe In settings? Stage 3: - Whiteline Swaybars (mentioned 'blade' type a few times, these good?) So yeah, that's an overall plan. I'm still not 100% with a lot this, but i think it's starting to make some sense. I might have a read of the Whiteline FAQ's as well. Any suggestions very much appreciated. Hopefully i can make this kind of like a 'Project R34' thing, where i take pics, step by step stuff, updates on results. Altho none of this stuff can actually be done for a few months, but doesn't hurt to be prepared! cheers EDIT: The Advan Neovas?? They're on the car already, with the AVS Model 5's. Car is still in Japan, i couldn't find any prices for them locally either. So they good tyres are they?

Ok, i'll give the whiteline articles are read... Thanks SK So i should probably do this in Stages?? Stage 1, 2, and 3? I'll have read of the articles and try and come up with things to do. So is that a unanimous no no for Jap Spec brands? Stick to Whiteline? Cos that would make it a lot easier in terms of choices. cheers.

Yeah def looks like Malaysia. Tone down the civilisation factor a touch, and you'd be in Indonesia territory (yes i have been to both)

cheers Munky (mate ur car is MINT, no two questions about that!), and Platium (MR2 turbos are great cars, i love 'em! look really nice, i'd be happy with one) maybe we should start a P Plater cruise and behave like we are all driving miss daisy, and do it every couple of weekends, spread the word of non-hoonishness, and that Skyline drivers appreciate the cars they've got, and are responsible drivers.

Well to put a completely different spin on the 'ownership' side of things. I've just bought a R34 GT-T, saved my arse off for 2 years (and haven't rung myself dry either) the car hasn't arrived yet, but damn did the word spread quickly!! I told a few of my close mates, that i was looking into it, and that i eventually bought one and the news spread like buggery! And everyone's like, "you get a skyline?" - It was actually quite nice to see ppl genuinely interested and actually not know a lot about them but not pass and judgements straight away either. I think i've started a Skyline awareness amongst my mates, not sure what's going to happen once i get the thing Everyone seems to know of the 'aura' of a Skyline, but don't know exactly what they are. It seems a Skyline's reputation proceeds itself - I must admit, i've had a bit of help from parents with the car (70% my cash, no loan, 30% parents money) but everyone i've spoken to about it are cool with it. I think there is A LOT to do with where you live, and the type of people you know. Cos so far, i haven't had one "spoilt", etc remark (except for a few tools on this forum who didn't even believe me) from the ppl i know, it's all been really positive so far. We'll see how it goes when i start driving the car. I drive a 91 pulsar hatch at the moment, and no problems on the road so far, but maybe that proves the point of P plates AND a Skyline attracting unfair attention. I'm pretty confident though that even when i start driving the car, things will be more positive than negative. cheers

hahha, just thinking the same thing Bass! great minds......

Exactly!! come guys, help give us a youngins a better name than what we've already got. I was quoted $2500 full comp for a friggen 1991, Nissan Pulsar hatchback!!! Slow it down!!

255/40/17 Advan Neovas (rears) Not sure what up front? Assuming 235/40

255/40 rears - i think i've got some good rubber already

Thanks Yotis, thread for it is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=42472 Thanks guys for the replies. Looks like i've got a lot of reading to do, a few things went straight over my head I probably won't be going to the track too often, maybe a couple times a year. I don't do a lot of driving. I think i worked out i do about 5,800km's a year. So if the suspension setup i go too is going to be hard on the tyres, i guess that's offset by me not doing a lot of driving. I've had to buy standard rims for compliance so i've got the AVS Model 5's, and also the stock R34 GT-T rims. So maybe i can have one for track and one for street use. How much are we looking at for the adjustable suspension type? Are these sought of components hard to install? Cos a mate of mine is an apprentice at a workshop (use to do a lot of imports) and said they could install the stuff for a good price if i supplied the parts. Or is this something that only ppl like Whiteline should be doing? once Uni settles down i'll look into all the different brands and post up some pics/details of each, see if we can narrow some stuff down. cheers

HEY!! hahaha i don't want to think about that, and i don't want that mental picture in my head thank you very much! They sure taking their sweet time with deregistration and 'bill of loading' etc. Just wanna get it all so i can get the stupid import approval underway. Can't do anything until the ppl with their hands on my wang throw me some paperwork

bah, get a REAL 4 door, sports car. BMW M5!! Family mans Ferrari.

Hi everyone, Well car has been bought and as usual, modification plans are underway before the car even lands in Oz! Basically i've decided to do things backwards from the norm. Before i touch exhaust/intake/engine/boost, etc i thought i'd trick out the suspension. Firstly, is this a stupid way of going about things? Car currently has 255/40/17 on the rears, not sure what up front, but most prob 235/40/17 - Tyres are Advan Neovas and rims are AVS Model 5's. So rim/tyre package seems to be pretty good. Now, i don't really know a lot about shocks, springs, coil overs, camber, castor, bushes, pineapples, strut braces, control arms, etc. so i've come to pick some brains. Basically the car is going to be chasing complete and utter response (inspiration from Mines R34 GTR ) and a will be used on a real track (one with corners) so what am i going to need? Car is completely stock at the moment, except for rims with the Advan tyres. Don't really have a budget (but lets not go nuts ) but don't have the faintest idea where to start, there seems to be a lot of suspension areas to modify. Just trying to make the car faster, without making it more powerful cheers! EDIT: Just reading through a few threads in this section, some saying things like a good track setup can be quite dangerous on normal roads, especially in the wet, etc. This is my first hi-po car (currently driving 57kw FWD pulsar ) so it's another reason why i wanted the car to be more stable and have more grip, rather than make it more powerful. I want to make it safer and more predictable... i've been thinking about a brake upgrade too.

Oh hey, forgot about this thread. Cheers Nick!! a slightly happy chappy - I sent ya an email, and i whored a bit of SAU space with a couple of threads about it Vic and General sections. Cos some vic people don't like to leave their state I've got a lot of help from there so i thought i'd let ppl know how it all turned out.

Abflug? It's like someone had 6 goes at randomly picking a word out of the alphabet with a blind fold on to come up with a name like that :confused:

Most hardcore M3... i think the E46 BMW M3 CSL would have to be competing for that. What are the specs for the E30 M3, weren't they running 4 cylinder engines?? End still keeping up with/winning some Group A events? cheers. Saw a M3 CSl at the golf club a few weeks back, QLD plates. 19" rims, those semi-slicks, carbon fibre everywhere :drools: One of THE best street cars i've ever seen. He/She was one of 21 VERY lucky ppl in this country.

Interesting the age of the posters in this thread. Gtst89: i know you're not whinging, and i know you're copping it on the chin (no pun intended) but i mean seriously, i actually don't know your age but i am completely surprised by the amount of young ppl who had posted and all seem to have suspensions! I've been driving for 5 years, 3 on L's (you can still be an idiot on your L's) and 2 on P's. No crashes and no speeding fines, and it's very hard to find insurance. Maybe you're out of this particular age bracket, but look at the age of ppl posting above. Dudes, save it for the track, and take it off the streets, it really can't be that hard? Sorry to hear about the loss of the license, and i know you accept it. keep the car. cheers

Such extreme opinions when it comes to euro cars and maintenance etc, - 3 BMW's countring, all had over 60Km's, NO mechanical problems at all. Just one prob with rear left electric window on the 528i. Speaking to a guy at golf last weekend, He's got a BMW 535i (not sure what 'E' model name it was, but the one before, before this shape, same era as the E36 3 series) - 330,000km's (just a touch over 60k) - In it's ENTIRE life time, has had the following down. New head (i'm assuming head gasket?) New diff New transmission. No other mechanical problems. Yes they are fairly major, but take into consideration the car has travelled 330,000km's i would think that is more than acceptable. I think that fact that cars like BMW's are built so well that with proper servicing, it all evens out in the end when the parts a slightly more. And lets face it, a R33 GTS-t is going to have a harder life than a BMW M3 - totally different age brackets and driving styles (with a few exceptions for those who drive their M3's like they're meant to) Saw a mum driving a 996, 911 Turbo in Hampton st the other day, pulled into the Safeway carpark to do a bit of shopping Kid was in the back, it was end of school time. (3:30pm) or something.