SS8_Gohan

Fantastic results!! Great to see another Flex-fuel Skyline getting around Will definitely ask Trent about his thoughts on the trigger setup too... PM price? Would have been interesting to see the results from JUST the -5 change, see what #'s you got and THEN change the exhaust to see the difference. Or just same setup, but diff exhaust. Wonder how my Midori exhaust stacks up against the Racepace one... might have to do a little back to back at Racepace one day. Do you know what ramp rate those runs were done at? Well done again, it's an absolute beast and with a little more time with Yavuz, i think you're going to see some SERIOUS numbers! Nice to finally meet you at the Nats as well

kicks were definitely fly

easy for me

nice seats and front bumper! Paul, bumper is the Nur one, with the oil cooler guide/vent. Car looks tough as... makes me miss my black on black 34 - are those SL's 10.5 +15? Do you know what camber you're running on the rear? Fitment looks great

yeah, you'd think the better the marque, the more you could trust that sort of thing (detail) but it seems to purely just come down to who they've got, and with yourself, the customers were lucky someone actually gave a damn with their new car that cost them tens of thousands.

the lubricity on PPBS is great, so i would use only a minimal amount to a decent amount water in a spray pack as a lube. The 3M blue clay i was using before FI stuff held up ok, it did start to crumble but that was after a lot of use. I'd probably would say you'd be turfing the claybar (or that particular piece of the bar) before it started to become useless. I do use the FI lube now with the FI clay, but i use to do the PPBS/water solution as i had issues with the first iterations of the FI lube, didn't provide enough lubricity. But got the new version, and it's spot on. 89-GTS4: i would say expecting a stealership to clay a car before delivery of their own volition (if not sub-contracting) is expecting a lot of them - but it doesn't matter what marque it is though, should see how some of the pre-delivery 'detailed' lambo's have turned out, yikes! Seen pics of Lambo and Astin pre-delivery details and it's not pretty. I'm sure there are some exceptions to the rule, but on the whole, you'd be a brave person to ask a stealership to prepare your new car for you. We've always taken them straight to FI or done the clay/sealant myself... gotta get some protection on the paint straight-away. Oh... i'm sure you guys know about the mark-up on the 'paint protection packs'... :eek:

there should be a lateral and vertical adjustment. From memory look for the long, thin, hex screws - that's what i used from memory to adjust the headlights on my GTT

don't bother. My old car, 98 GTT nothing changed but inj/fuel pump. I ran it on non-caltex E85 for ~2 years (high E%, high 80's, low 90's) no issues. New owner has had it on E-flex since, so that's a 98 car on a high ethanol blend for nearly 3 years now. Car is still going strong. The only 'tuners' or 'workshops' who told me it was all going to end in tears were those that funnily enough, hadn't been playing with E85 at all... just got caught up in the myths and scare tactics. Just make sure you've got enough fuel delivery, pump/injectors and you'll be fine

And you'd rather the stealership 'detail' it before delivery? 3 new cars in 2 years, clayed them all, all managed to discolour the claybar. They might give them a wash before delivery, but i doubt much more will happen other than that. And yes, if you include all the contamination that even a new car is subject too, a clay is very much necessary. And you're forgetting also the LSP stage, why would you not prepare the surface as best as possible before putting a sealant or wax done? Be madness not to prep the surface properly.

get.. - 2 x MF wash mitts - 1 x waffle weave drying towel - ph neutral body shampoo - Clay bar - clay lube (can use mix water/body shampoo) - Sealant Tell the stealership not to do any 'pre-delivery' hacking of the car, or whatever they pass off as detailing. With brand new paint, i wouldn't bother with polishing (that's a whole lot more gear to buy as well), the paint should hopefully be fresh enough. Just clay it to give a good clean base to put the sealant down and you should be good for a bout 1 years worth of paint protection (with a good sealant). Then either QD after each wash, layer more sealant or top with a carnauba wax (with no cleaners) www.finalinspection.com.au - everything you need and the best stuff, and they probably do kits as well, so you can buy as a combo.

return flow cooler, keep stock airbox (high flow filter) - just jap will be fine standard bov SWAY BARS!! - whiteline nistune splitfires = yes, but if you're on a budget, run the standards whilst you can, they're fine when they're working i'd be looking at other exhaust options. 12psi will be ok for standard turbo, but will prob be a happy dyno for 200rwkw. If budget can stretch, get Hypergear to highflow your turbo, something small-ish and strong, will get you around the 230rwkw but still be very responsive. Get some good brake pads and brake cylinder stopper thingy, (cheapo ones on ebay) Don't need short shift, the standard box is fantastic to shift with... try the 6sp getrag and compare, 25 box is MUCH nicer! imo anyway don't know much about budget coilovers, i ran bilstein shocks and whiteline springs which was a really nice combo. Pedders gets shit canned a lot but i know some people (proper suspension shops) that have run them in their road cars and have said they're actually quite decent. oh and good tyres to finish it off.

Damian @ FI does training, it would be well worth the trip to Melbourne if you're keen. May as well learn from the best.

yes, on powerplus E85, 400rwkw, 21psi - Nismo intank, ID1000's. 356rwkw on 98, 385rwkw on e-flex (tune was around E65-70) - 400rwkw on E85, same boost 256/9.15 i believe... 2.6 + 2530's is not the most responsive package getting around, so i wouldn't think about getting bigger cams at all. If anything with E85, something smaller might be interesting... Should get a Racepace dyno for comparison to some of the other known GTR's on SAU

you want me to try what? i'm in Melb, dealt with Stao quite a bit before with my GT-T, nice little high-flow on that car, punchy little number. So what are we trying to do with the 2530's? in laymans terms, i'm terrible when it comes to turbos, other than a 3071 is less laggy than a 3076, basic crap like that are we trying to make them more responsive and powerful at the same time, or just more top-end out of them? I'm running 2530's in the R

if there is the ability for it to take a digital signal input (like the G4) then you should be able to setup Flex-fuel - much better than the 'two map' scenario.

if you're not regularly tracking a 32-34, why would you be spending "tens of thou a year" in running costs???

nice, thinking about doing this for my 34. did you source the material here or from the States? $$ per square metre? and pics in first posts not working

Nismo intank pump, 400rwkw - no issues that we could tell from this. ID1000's looked into all of this twin this, surge that, undercar etc... wasn't needed in the end. pretty much same setup as well, built 26, 2530's.

nice info, thanks guys!! i take it running Bride Cuga's doesn't change anything re: number of points compared to standard seats? do you have a harness bar in your 33 Ash?

hi guys, thinking of going down then harness road, and just wanted to pick some brains on which harness to get? are all harnesses created equal or is it another 'get what you pay for' situation? And can they be installed without hacking up too much or making any major adjustments to anything? Had a look at rhdjapan at the Nismo harness. $$$$

oh, do they only make GTR ones? are you sure? i'm sure i've seen nismo mats in a GTT before (unless they were GTR ones...) if somewhere like rhdjapan.com etc only lists GTR ones, let me know and i can compare my GTT mats to the GTR ones

at the end of the day, they're both great choices and with most features than most would use. If your tuner and others in the area are going with Haltech, that would seem to be the most logical choice. Once you've got it in, get the car setup for flex-fuel

Other way round And just because there weren't Vipec V33/22 ect doesn't mean anything. Vipec was a 'brand' launched when Link made the G4 range. That's all there is to it. Link made the hardware and have the G4/Storm etc range.. and for some reason decided to create another brand for other markets. Not sure why people are still confused about this? see below...

oh yeah, i remember paying around $360 now that i think about it.... but still, $50 worth of pads in there, plus whatever was postage on them. but yeah, probably the best deal for Melbourne ppl

stumbled across this on DA... http://forums.finalinspection.com.au/showthread.php?4873-FS-MELB-Bosch-GEX150T-Professional-RO-Sander&p=103714#post103714 Killer price, all you need is some FI Cap and you're good to go These generally go very quick on DA, so i'd be quick if you're keen. Same unit and pads that i use, great unit, great pads