SS8_Gohan

i can't see my setup being anywhere close to a RB30 with -5's, (i'd choose that combo as well if going down that road, but with a neo head as well ) 9 sec ramp i believe, the interesting thing i found is how this setup compared to a 26 with vcam, very similar results, see.. as for mods, head has had some porting done i believe, baby cams though. Tomei expreme manifolds - midori dumps i think, middori s/s front pipes, midori titanium catback, not 100% sure of diametre - sard cat

ok, test started last 2008 and finished early 2009 - a few things -FI Seal wasn't even out yet -I've used a few of those products that finished at the end of the test and FI Seal lasted as long if not longer, so what does that mean? In the biggest test ever, Seal would have been there at the end? -That test isn't a great one because he has applied sealants to all areas of the horse box, and different areas of the car/vehicle cop it more than others and the LSP in those areas will definitely deteriorate quicker than the rest. For a good test, you'd have to say divide up the bonnet and roof, would be an even test. I fail to see how you could "STRONGLY" recommend against using a product that has shown on many occasion to perform just as well if not better than others out there. That's something you would say to someone asking if they should use Nu-wax or buy the FW1 cleaner from the servo..... The application process is a little fiddly, making sure you give it the correct bonding time, check to see if it's sweating etc, but get that right and it's been better than any other sealant i've used. I'll happily use what works best on my car, and have a bunch of non-FI products, but if i find the FI product to be just as good (in most cases better) then i'll switch. Like Menzerna, i wouldn't use anything else, brilliant polishes but CAP range was better, so i switched.

made it in by .5 of a rwkw 400.5rwkw 2530's smallish cams, 256 Powerplus E85 mid to high 21psi Racepace adj cam gears, all for response (let the E85 take care of the top end) built 26, not 100% on pistons hence no 24psi runs etc.

twin HKS 2530

bit of a thread dig, but was looking through this the other day and thought i'd compare to my recent E85 run, and was surprised to find some pretty similar things. at 4000rpm we're both 175rwkw at 5000rpm we're both a touch above 325rwkw at a little past 7000rpm we're both at the peak comparing say 3000rpm i have 75rwkw and you have a touch above. is the difference "of interest" just the pre 3000rpm perhaps? or was this the prelim tune and there was still some tweaking needed?

this is from the other week... knew she had a 400 in her 9sec ramp i believe And the 400 run vid... toasty

i find you can put a bit of pressure on the glass, i use to just use my old Edge green pad with a medium polish. So FI Orange with med would be find i reckon, pretty sure i did that last time. It's tougher than your paint, so don't worry too much

i fail at grammar... i meant 'their hand up' not 'there' don't get me started on factory paint "protection" packages! lol

link to test? FI Seal part of said test?

Yep, last time i was putting SEAL down on the car, i did glass as well. Nothing sheets water quicker on the car than the glass, fun to watch I clay, and machine polish the glass everytime i detail. Add a wax or sealant ontop and it's damn slippy Be careful with windscreens as some products can react a little funny, but i haven't had any issues with Seal regular or P21s I have the FI glass cloth, but it's for the inside only as far as i know. Works great and i use it with Stoners invisible glass, fantastic product for the inside. If you're inside glass is really dirty i will either do a warm water wipe down with glass MF to get rid as much of the build-up as possible, rinsing regularly (you'll see the green MF looking pretty dirty quickly) THEN do the Stoners invisible glass. You could do a couple passes of invisible glass, but the key is having the glass MF squeaky clean for the next wipe down. Absolute must.

old post but yes, FI CAP range of polishes is ridiculous. I was a staunch Menzerna supporter but CAP is a cut above. But really, for the CAP range you'll need a machine and pads, you could try CAP Medium by hand, but it will be a shiteload amount of work.

Mark, as per prev advice, SEAL do all the usual, wash, decontaminate, wash/cleanse, polish, wash/clease etc... you seem to suggest you have got the paint to the level you want and just want to sus out the LSP, last step product. Try Final Inspection Seal Regular (Strong prob a bit fiddly for you to apply by the sounds of it), put a few layers down (need 72 hrs cure time in between off the top of my head). Maintain with QD like Boost, or layer a carnauba wax ontop for a little extra gloss and another sacrificial layer in between washes.

nice have you found any hazing issues with the Dodo Juice? might not be any issue anymore, but some friends had issues with purple 'haze' (no pun intended) a few years back unfortunately, my R34 is spoken for (in terms of detailers, but i have most the gear myself anyway, Bosch GEX150T, FI pads/polishes etc) was just interested in the products you use i'm sure a R34 GTR owner will put there hand up

wow, 20 degress ok, so when you're talking 4-6 for Rb26 adj cam gears, i can see how that would be a good thing. that clears that up, cheers

so the purpose of VCT to retard/advance on the intake side (for Rb25's) yeah? the amount it's retarded or advanced changes depending on RPM? if so, how does 'constantly' variable differ? we talk about VCT being on or off, but surely 'on' doesn't mean a set retard or advanced state and if that's the case, how is it different to adj cam gears? i've probably said a lot of newb things, so excuse my newbiness, just trying to get my head around RB25 VCT and how it varies to constantly variable

we dropped the exhaust one time on my GT-T between dyno runs, made bugger all difference - a good highflow cat that retains a 3" diametre (not talking about body cat size) through the whole system should be fine

i think it's sub $100, but not by much. They got a new machine in last year and it went up a little - but should see it, crazy piece of kit

what polishes do you use? cheers

wow... what an amazingly detailed response from a company rep! Obviously well across the product. Thanks for the post, very interesting!! Don't let the Sucrogen rep know that his fuel was not bang on E85, or you'll start WWIII douche... The vapour pressure one is interesting too... i wonder if that's why it's a bit trickier to get cold start sorted compared to 98. I'm still reading mid60's with E-Flex down here, and that's been both Glen Waverley and Springvale now. And i would think my Seimens sensor is fairly accurate compared to the test tube kits. The Powerplus E85 we used as the high baseline hovered between E83-E86, but was fairly settled on E84 - which is what you would want if you spend $2.20 or whatever a litre. Thinking of doing an E100 tune when Manildra gets back online So when you get the inevitable E90+ from Fueltown or United, all will be good.

definitely Traction Tyres - don't add extra 0's onto the quote just because they're performance orientated, unlike some other performance suspension workshops Will give good prices for SAU members as well

that is true, it's pretty much all out there for everyone to see. And a good detailer would be doing a PTT before doing any serious correction, so you do know what you're getting for the most part mechanical is definitely a bit of a pandora's box sometimes

^ cool, uses FI products is that Matt who had a yellow 33?

yeah, i'll definitely make the hike for good workshops. Racepace on PT is a bit of a trek as i have to train it all the way to Sth Yarra to switch lines to come back down the bay. Chequered is probably the closest at 25mins, Racepace is about 50mins - Traction Tyres about 40mins - Final Inspection is about 1 hour.

or get Simple Green from bunnings, proven to work in this application and at least not full of nasty stuff

i know there is the wash your car with kerosene thread, but there are much less harmful ways to remove bugs etc polish doesn't provide any protection, only the LSP will do that (last step product, sealant/wax etc) i'd recap it thusly - clay removes contaminants, industrial fall-out, tar spots, overspray, general debris build-up not removed via washing - polish cuts a layer of the clear-coat to rectify swirls, scratches, water marks, fading, etc... will not provide any protection to the paint LSP: Last step product, can be a combo of, and/or - sealant. Physically protects paint. Generally not as aesthetically pleasing (gloss, depth/richness of colour, etc), but generally greater protection (longer, withstand more punishment). New nano-tech goes a ways to addressing the aesthetics whilst boosting longevity/protection - wax. Provides protection but not all provide UV protection. Generally speaking more pleasing to the eye in terms of gloss, depth and richness of colour. Generally speaking the higher the carnauba content, the better the wax. Zymol Royale is around the 70% range, but is also worth $10,000+ A common LSP procedure is laying a sealant down for better protection, allowing the proper curing time (cannot apply another layer of anything, be it sealant or wax, straight away) and then layer a wax ontop for looks, aiming to provide best of both worlds. Not so much an issue with new nano-tech sealants these days.