SS8_Gohan

300+ is massive!!! Menz is german made i believe, i spot 203s as well i think... nice Eugene knows his stuff

you can HP the engine bay, taking the above precautions but i must admit... i'm not a big fan. go to bunnings, get a product called 'Simple Green' - put it in a little pump-pack type spray bottle (check the dilution notes) and just mist around the engine bay and wipe down. Otherwise i would do the same with Final Inspection's GPC (General Purpose Cleaner) Different materials (plastics/metal/rubber) may require different products as well, but the above mentioned ones would be fine to start with for a general clean

hahaha wondering if they were baiting people, doing say 95km/hr and picking up everyone over-taking at +whatever the speed limit

was there any work done on the house in the last month or so? solar panels put in? home theatre install etc any building going on in the street? tradies around etc? glad to hear they were recovered (some-what) - was anyone caught or were just the cars recovered? yes, also confused why Federal popo involved?

Footscray station is a short walk from Chasers, and then you're in the CBD in a matter of minutes. Or if you're really lazy, a taxi into the city would be cheap. You near a train line that will go to Footscray station?

you'll have to ask the dyno we ran the Powerplus, all 20L of it, did the tune for E85 and then put 20L of 98, maybe even a bit more. We knew the ECU was taking out timing etc from our tests last time when mixing down the E%, but we wanted to see how it did on full load etc. So i never got to drive the Powerplus on the street. By the time i left the shop it was around high E40's/E50, so certainly not full power anymore so to speak. But the night we took it out after the first e-flex tune, around 385rwkw, it was pretty ridiculous 2nd had traction issues, and you know how much suspension work this thing has! I wasn't quite ready for it, as i had only on rare occassion given the R a push on the Midori tune just to be safe. So to have the first experience of the boot in for an extended period on E-flex certainly was a bit of a 'W T F!' moment hahaha, quite funny now that i think back on it... i think both Trent and i had a bit of a giggle What was interesting though that when Trent compared the timing map to Midori's for the 98 tune (he logged the map before hand) to what he ended up with, it was very very similar, but like 1-2 degree down across the map - in other words, same type of map but Midori was just more agressive., which would make sense if you had slighlty better fuel. make your own - and let us know when the crops are being picked hahaha, good old highway tuning - still very useful in all seriousness

striking through paint to bare metal i would think is something pretty hard to rectify birds not to mention plastics, glass, exterior moulds, interior trims - there's some things you can do that there is no coming back from. And a lot of it are prices you don't want to ask from a stealership to replace

that's an adjustment for the beam if they're anything like the 34 ones, the 'lid' is a screw type one that was a biatch to undo from memory, just try unscrewing both ones - got pics?

Get on it Phil! You got the Link... ah i mean, Vipec ... you're almost good to go! Or is there not even E-Flex out your way yet?

We did the Powerplus E85 tune the other night to get a baseline for genuine E85, result.... 400.5rwkw A 400 is a 400 Wideband is all wired up and talking to the ECU, but still needs a bit more time to get that all sorted. We'll use the closed loop function to try and get some fuel economy improvements, i believe this happens in the light load situations? Funnily enough, the Powerplus E85 initially was reading as high as E90, but after a few minutes of the car on the dyno, settlted at E84-E85, but did drop to E83 in the end. Might just have been the remnants of the other fuels in the system giving the slightly different reading. This is about a +15rwkw gain on E-Flex, and about +45rwkw from E98 - no boost changes what-so-ever. Vids to come

just out of interest, what oil was being run in the gearbox??

hose method is one of the best, more effective than a bucket and much less wasteful - if it's a HP unit, you can disconnect the secondary 'lance' bit and hold your hand over the end and hold the trigger down, or if you're in a state where you can use a trigger hose, then yes, a direct from mains stream is a fantastic way to 'dry' the car

a squeegee is probably the last thing i would think about using on a painted surface, no matter the quality. Ask for trouble IMO IMO, the best way to avoid excessive contact with a wet panel is to blot dry first. I actually lay out the WWDT over as much of the panel as possible (generally only required for the horizontal panels) and let it soak up the water. I'll do that on all the horizontal panels first and then ring out the WWDT if need be. This helps with a couple things; firstly it removes almost all the water, two it 'primes' the WWDT be getting it wet to be more effective and less chance of marks to be made and three, eliminates a good amount of actual 'wiping' of the panels as most the water is already soaked up. The less wiping motion, the less swirls. Simple As much as i believe in saving water where you can, if you have tank water or water saved from the shower, you can use this as part of the drying process. But for it to work well, you need a well conditioned paint surface and you need to pour the water out in a stream, as opposed to what you get with a HP unit. This promotes the water to sheet off much more than a HP ever will. I'll add a few other points to your write up Jonno if you don't mind

short answer, yes. You will get more gloss and clarity. CAP Medium can definitely be used as a one-stepper, but you'd be crazy not to do a pass of Ultra fine, the results are pretty ridiculous. Obviously,best to team with FI black pad too.

are you worried about it being too lean on the United 98? would there perhaps be more detonation protection with the Boost98 considering the higher Ethanol content? i wonder if you could even push it further than bp98......

springvale caltex running at E64 at the moment, i reckon has been a bit lower on our first tune as well. will try and get an update to see if any difference with Glen Waverley

i'd go at least yearly for a detail, but with maintenance in between. Detail to me would be a machine polish. But i would clay the car at least a few times in the year, with a few layers of sealant or wax throughout the year, which makes the maintenance/detailing easier dude, out west... no choice, Final Inspection /end thread

if you've got an Evo, wouldn't Chasers be the choice? the west melb/footscray one shouldn't be too far on some sort of freeway from the west

get a Link G4, the original and cheaper plus you're supporting a Christchurch company... struggling city at the moment

what would you get to a full tank? on my GTT with a Nistune (same thing, remap) i could get low 300's, like 320km around town with a tank of E85, and that's real E85 as well (southland) i suspect E-flex would have yielded a slightly better result with more petrol content. my GTR isn't a good comparo at the moment as we need to replace the O2 sensor, but no reason with a remap you couldn't get 300km to a tank for an rb25 actually, which engine?

typical response from someone called out... respond back with an inane insult and your experience with tuning is? The point being made is there is an option to switch it out for something low cost and proven, if the op wants. It's not saying one is better than the other. and of course companies like Mines, Midori etc must be incredibly stupid to run what are essentially remaps... should send them an email, highlighting their stupidity

^ ECU? haven't had issues with springvale or glen waverley lately

basically is a function is just a pre-written bit of code that results in certain action each time you run it. The most commmon being something "Hello world" function hWorld() { 'output to screen command depending on language' "Hello World"; } So when you run the function, hWorld(), it will output on the screen 'Hello World'. so....i think it kinda means.. whilst the function sensor(TPS) is outputing a value greater than .40, AND the function switch(NTR) is NOT equal to something/not true? and function int(RPM) is less than <1500 rpm, run the function NVCS, passing int the parametre of 1 i think... so it's a loop, it will keep running NVCS whilst all those other conditions are met, not sure if that helps at all (and i may have got some of that wrong as well ).

so you're adding the NEO VCT setup to a Rb20??

hahah, yes, the bunky old Jun 2.7 32... - i think the motec is cool with this sort of thing, pretty sure i googled something about this and motec once... bring it down!! Be very intersting to compare the two cars on the same dyno, midori 2.6 vs jun 2.7 both with 2530's. dooo eeeeeeeet!