SS8_Gohan

i was under the impression that Rb25 guys didn't do cam gears that much as it doesn't make the difference it does like on the Rb26's? and if they do, i think they only do one side (exhaust?) and leave the rest - why would you not want your VCT? would that not be more beneficial than cam gears? i think that may have something to do with neo people not changing them perhaps, and you not being able to find anything in search results in all my years of GTT ownership, cam gears didn't once come up in discussions with my tuner or other people - but then again, i was running standard camshafts, maybes that's why

sounds about right, GTR is 12mm i believe, so 10mm would seem quite possible prob just jump on nengun.com or rhdjapan, find any nismo knob for comparison and see if the GTT model is listed as 10mm

it's not really - unless the list of steps isn't completely exhaustive. There's no wash/cleansing step between the claying and the polishing. A must to get rid of the clay/lube residue and to complete remove the contaminants lifted by the claybar. You also need to wash/cleanse between the polishing and LSP. and i don't understand why you would replace a polish with a glaze? that doesn't make any sense. A glaze is used as a LSP, wouldn't have any abrasive characteristics (the whole point of the polishing step) and generally filled with a bunch of fillers to 'hide' swirls/scratches. Terrible choice especially after you've spent all that time with preparation and paint correction, the last thing you want to do is use a glaze. Even more-so if you have a metallic paint car, just hide all that lovely flake you spent so much work getting to sparkle.

ask Trent at Chequered Tuning, he might be able to hook you up (and is one of best tuners around as well)

is it possible to compete and help out or it's not really feasible?

make the trip to Trent @ Chequered Tuning - get a Nistune (seems like you don't have an ECU yet) and drive away with a big smile, best mod you'll do and best tuner for the job.... or any job really

Racepace prob wouldn't be too hard to get to from Hawthorn i would think, prob good freeway access that way. Is the car standard or has there been any modifications?

from GTRRKT's posts it seems like it's pretty much a done deal - she looks to have a new owner

kudos to all the sponsors, kudos i say

congrats on the sale! may i ask if the car is staying in Melbourne?

CES made some really nice exhaust pieces, not sure if they're still doing it

would look mad of your white 33 mate you wouldn't want it to 'protrude' much though, if you know what i mean

nice driving!!! what's the setup at the moment? and what tyres were you using there? sounds like semi's?

if you're going to upgrade the Turbo (why not when you can get stock like response but a heap more power) go for the Hypergear SS highflow - around 250rwkw and very similar response to stock. You'll prob need a Z32 AFM, but you MIGHT be able to get away with it. I maxed the resolution at around 240'ish rwkw on my old GTT. You'll need a GOOD intake pipe made up as well if you switch turbos. The old 'shove a metal pipe in' has it's limits, you'll need something custom made up - DON'T go the silicone options, waste of time. Metal, metal, metal. Injectors are a much easier deal now-a-days, just grab some Injector Dynamics injectors. Start around the 725cc mark, but i'd prob just get 1000's to allow for E85 Or get the 'no-name' variety of Bosch EV12 (i think) style injector, that's what the ID's are based off. I went nistune, hypergear highflow, stock airbox, stock BOv, highflow panel filter, return flow IC (plus other supporting mods) for bout 5+ years with GTT - never any cops drama's at all. Make sure the exhaust isn't too loud, and following all the great advice already in this thread you'll have a mean car that's still quite stealth. 250rwkw in a GTT is a lot of fun But please please look into your tyres/suspension/brakes as well. Swaybars, do eeet! Cheap and fantastic handling upgrade - Whiteline. Tyres, my car liked the KU36's, but alternatively i'd prob splash a few hundred more on some AD08's from tirerack Brake cylinder stopper, check ebay, very cheap. Check brakes over, bleed, put some good fluid in etc (RBF600) But yeah, would be a good idea to check the spring rates if you can. Get some swaybars for sure though! have fun

i would think of running both, i wouldn't like to rely on just one - especially widebands wonder what the GM (saab etc) cars do in the event of the content sensor failing... maybe just really detuned, it wouldn't actually matter

what if the wideband packs it in?

bayside? never seen ya around - wanted to pop around to have a bit of a captain cook, but looks like she might be heading to a new home good luck with finalising the sale

this is the thread that won't die... for the love of baby jeebus, check the dates ppls!! it started in 2009! he hasn't posted in this thread since Nov 2009!!

the scam actually doesn't threaten the loss of the vehicle, they're just trying to get a few thousand out of each 'victim' for 'transport costs'. they want the email you use for paypal not to hack in or anything like that, but to send you a 'receipt'. This will LOOK like a real paypal receipt, but it's fake. You THINK you have been paid for the car and you then agree to pay the transport cost to send the car to him/her. Either via paypal or western union. So it's not the car they're after, it's just a bit of a cash supposedly for 'transport costs'. Why a seller would agree to pay for transport, i have no idea, but i guess some people are desparate for a sale. So yeah, it's not about hacking your paypal account, it's so they know which email address you use so they can send the 'fake' receipt of money to the correct linked email address. It's all just down to try and get you to transfer $1000 or so to them. That's it. a lot of bike sellers being targetted as well at the moment too

'detail addiction' is another fantastic resource, but we pretty much just use/talk about the Final Inspection range. Definitely people on there using a bunch of other products, but it is predominantly FI products. Damian has developed a product for pretty much every category/segment, and i just find it easier buying all from one place. I still have quite a few products of other companies, that i still use but all seriousness, once the FI product comes out, i rarely if ever switch back. Case in point with the Menzerna polishes. They still make a great polish, but FI's CAP range is definitely better, and you'll find Menzerna to be amongst the top, if not the top rated polish in most circles like R31 and others, i like to play around with waxes, sealants etc... some a better with certain colours etc, so there is a bit of trial and error involved. And the conditions our cars are kept and experience varies a lot as well. Durability isn't a huge thing for me as the R spends most of it's time in a locked garage. So play around but i agree, nothing really beats a good base sealant layer, with 3-4 layers of a nice wax ontop

fantastic result Geoff!!! things have definitely improved from the guinea pig days when i ran some of the HG proto's - i made a touch more with my 98 tune, but full boost was a good 500rpm later from memory this is the turbo for the street guys, well done Stao!

if the rear bar was too wide, was it perhaps a R33 GTR bumper and you had the wrong part to start with?

hmmm... where you located? interested in a swap for also a Midori brace, but i'm guessing some type steel not Ti, similar design though obviously EDIT: never mind the location question, just refreshed the thread and saw you're in syd

in terms of track time, how do the ffcc days go compared with others? grouped according to experience as well?

sounds like it's entering R & R (rich and retard) get a Nistune in it so you can get some control over it where the splitfires new or second hand?