SS8_Gohan

wow, what a great idea! never heard of anything like this happening down in mexico... i wonder if any workshop would even run such a day...

have you guys found the quoting accurate to the final price? helping a friend out with a front bumper from nsw to vic and the place he'd organised it from was charging $120 for postage. It seemed a bit high, and said i'd look at some other options. anyone done front/rear bumpers with these guys?

take anything from the mini-bar? very common for hotels to charge late for extra services/items etc. you'll also find this with in-flight transactions, be they for food/entertainment/telecommunications, etc.

hit me up with a PM as well mate if you can

Freddy @ Top Stage is really your only choice for this sort of stuff unless you want to DIY

i think there are few massive threads in the general or skylines section about all the different coilpacks. splitfire are a proven/tested product in a huge variety of situations/setups

guess the invite got lost in the mail.............................. CONGRATULATIONS!! all the very best for future!

i had the ultra common coil pack issue very early on in the piece, got split fires, 4 years later, not 1 issue.

hahahah, are you guys serious??

yeah semi's you'd want to be pretty on the ball with changes. It's just a rough guide, but keep an eye on things a little more with Group III etc. If you're really keen or just want to stretch your money further, do a UOA after say 5,000km's or 6months with a Group III, like Nulon or Edge and see what it returns. Result might be that's all fine and you can keep going. Depends on your driving as well. If you see a lot of peak hour traffic, your intervals are going to be shorter. Obviously this is all exclusive of track days.

10,000km is fine for a very good quality, true synthetic. That's half the point of them, longer change intervals. And if this GW is group V then 10K is fine. But i'd still say depends on time AND km's. If you don't do 10,000km in a year then you'll be changing, if not then going by kms might be right for you. Oh and it's Harold @ Performancelub

any respray will need a detail, even the high end sprays. Some just happen to have good detailers to finish it off before they give it to you. it's by no means a show quality paint job, just as i've said a lot, it's a good job at a good price. swirls and spider webs aren't exactly a result of the spray job. This really is the paint as it is. It's only a 2 stage correction, topped by a sealant that has no fillers, so i'm not hiding anything. Yes there is more gloss, but things like peel/colour matching etc are going to be there regardless whether it's detailed or not. When you start wet-sanding etc, then yes... that's not exactly the job that you've seen come off the gun. But a light correction like this, with a no filler LSP, is basically showing the paint job without marks induced by washing.

Had a good chat to Anthony down at Fueltown the other day. He's the one responsible for getting E85 in there, and he's the Bosch guy doing all the conversions. I asked about mixes etc, and he says it's E85 and E85 only. No winter mix and that Powerplus ethanol is made from alcohol grain or something like that, which is a better ethanol than the molasses by product base that the CSR uses. He was claiming a higher RON as a result as the pure ethanol ratings of the CSR method and the Powerplus are something like 112 / 116 respectively. I was asking him about cold starts and he had some interesting info. He said that you need to go UP the heat range with plugs because the E85 burns about 40 degrees cooler and that's why it has trouble starting. He also said to INCREASE the gap. I don't know enough about all these things, but on 98 and the cars we run, i guess most of us have some .8's in there. I'd be happy to try as cold start is a bit of an exercise but won't do it to the detriment of tune etc. Need to follow up more on this. And i'm so VIP there now i have my own personal key for the E85 bowser! hahahaha - Hamish mate, you gotta get one - So i can just rock up, unlock and start filling More interesting tid bits. He confirmed the Caltex story, which is cool. The MORE interesting thing is that he's had Holden come down at the dead of the night to test their new flex fuel cars Shouldn't be far off apparently. He's been trying to convert all the cop cars because they get washed there, and has managed to convert a 15yr old Falcon dibby van, and the police organised a "test" (drag on nepean hwy) between the old and new van. Apparently the old E85 one destroyed it Also said they've had a full race prepped Corvette come through, with Motec etc, and getting that sorted with E85. Seems like he knows his stuff and might be a good idea to pick brains a bit. Anyways, that's my story. The guy is ultra passionate about it and be prepared for a good chat

factory GV1

this was nearly 4 years ago, and prices/materials have changed a lot, but this was a $2500-$3000 respray... i think

I keep saying i'll show some of Vu's work whenever the DT Panels threads pop up, but just haven't got around to it. It's really just in response to "those" threads which we see from time to time. So here is my car, sprayed in 2006 i believe? around sept/oct, so coming up to 4 years. The body kit was actually sprayed at a DIFFERENT time to the car (a year later, maybe more?), so we can get a judge of paint matching as well. All detailing products from Final Inspection. This is the car after it's detail. 1 x pass of FI Orange pad with Menzerna IP 3.01, 1 x pass of FI Black with Menzerna Final Finish - LSP is 2 x Final Inspection 'Seal'. Flat panels (bonnet/bootlid/roof) had a bit mor FI orange passes with the IP 3.01. It's not 100% perfect, but i think you'll agree she's looking alright and the ubiquitous reflection shots No photoshopping, these are actually the panels on my car this is the roof bonnet shit you not, this is just my cars bonnet sun spots to show any imperfections trying to show off the metallic flake, sun shots will show the swirls/spider webbing/marring etc Final Inspection Seal is a high clarity sealant. This is just straight paint correction, no filler products have been used at all. reflections shots don't always tell the full story, so i tried to get more sun shots Checkout the bootlid and even the rear windscreen got a machine polish and wax (1 x FI Seal, 1 x P21s carnauba wax) This is the front passenger guard i believe. Trying to show a proper paint correction. Again no filler products have been used, this is the actual condition of the paint not quite full sun... love the side mirror reflection in this sparkle sparkle something about the shape of front guards. Just show of a good detail so well, great depth and gloss not to forget the bonnet again either i did do the entire car just got back from a drive to get some E85, so the back of the car is a little dusty mmm more silky Seal goodness chrome finish anyone can't even tell where the car stops and the garage begins almost This should see 6-8 months of protection with a good washing procedure. Enough to last throughout winter ready for a summer detail

I suggest Final Inspection Seal, for protection and looks... This is the car after it's detail. 1 x pass of FI Orange pad with Menzerna IP 3.01, 1 x pass of FI Black with Menzerna Final Finish - LSP is 2 x Final Inspection 'Seal'. Flat panels (bonnet/bootlid/roof) had a bit mor FI orange passes with the IP 3.01. It's not 100% perfect, but i think you'll agree she's looking alright and the ubiquitous reflection shots No photoshopping, these are actually the panels on my car this is the roof bonnet shit you not, this is just my cars bonnet sun spots to show any imperfections trying to show off the metallic flake, sun shots will show the swirls/spider webbing/marring etc Final Inspection Seal is a high clarity sealant. This is just straight paint correction, no filler products have been used at all. reflections shots don't always tell the full story, so i tried to get more sun shots Checkout the bootlid and even the rear windscreen got a machine polish and wax (1 x FI Seal, 1 x P21s carnauba wax) This is the front passenger guard i believe. Trying to show a proper paint correction. Again no filler products have been used, this is the actual condition of the paint not quite full sun... love the side mirror reflection in this sparkle sparkle something about the shape of front guards. Just show of a good detail so well, great depth and gloss not to forget the bonnet again either i did do the entire car just got back from a drive to get some E85, so the back of the car is a little dusty mmm more silky Seal goodness chrome finish anyone can't even tell where the car stops and the garage begins almost This should see 6-8 months of protection with a good washing procedure. Enough to last throughout winter ready for a summer detail

not the best photos but i know people have been asking for more. This is the car after it's detail. 1 x pass of FI Orange pad with Menzerna IP 3.01, 1 x pass of FI Black with Menzerna Final Finish - LSP is 2 x Final Inspection 'Seal'. Flat panels (bonnet/bootlid/roof) had a bit mor FI orange passes with the IP 3.01. It's not 100% perfect, but i think you'll agree she's looking alright and the ubiquitous reflection shots No photoshopping, these are actually the panels on my car this is the roof bonnet shit you not, this is just my cars bonnet sun spots to show any imperfections trying to show off the metallic flake, sun shots will show the swirls/spider webbing/marring etc Final Inspection Seal is a high clarity sealant. This is just straight paint correction, no filler products have been used at all. reflections shots don't always tell the full story, so i tried to get more sun shots Checkout the bootlid and even the rear windscreen got a machine polish and wax (1 x FI Seal, 1 x P21s carnauba wax) This is the front passenger guard i believe. Trying to show a proper paint correction. Again no filler products have been used, this is the actual condition of the paint not quite full sun... love the side mirror reflection in this sparkle sparkle something about the shape of front guards. Just show of a good detail so well, great depth and gloss not to forget the bonnet again either i did do the entire car just got back from a drive to get some E85, so the back of the car is a little dusty mmm more silky Seal goodness chrome finish anyone can't even tell where the car stops and the garage begins almost This should see 6-8 months of protection with a good washing procedure. Enough to last throughout winter ready for a summer detail

i guess you also need to ask, who will be tuning my car? will you stay with who you're with or move to a new tuner solely due to product choice?

ideally you want as small a difference in number as possible. Royal Purple make a group V as far as i know, but it's the ultra exxy XPR racing one, or something a long those lines. Same price if not more than Redline. But yes, Harold, performancelub.com is the place to buy redline. Bursons will ask you to bend over. Mobil 1 is supposed to be Group IV, but there is some conjecture there depending on the viscosity. 0w40 should be Group IV. Certainly good enough to be the oil of choice for the R35 GTR (factory oil). AMSOil, which i'm runnning, i believe is a Group IV/V blend. Not that pricey either, again, got this from Harold. Being american, meant to be ok with E85 (which unfortunately not oils are).

Power FC D-Jetro perhaps?

crude dropped, aud dropped - crude rose, aud rose - there's an equilibrium there that keeps prices relatively constant. Not perfect, but relatively constant. Not overly complicated really.

definitely can see the gloss increase but please for the love of detailing, DO NOT use autoglym after FF!!!! Final Finish is, as the name suggest, your last product to be used when polishing. Generally speaking you would have used a higher cutting polish first, then finish with Final Finish. After FF, you wax the car or apply a sealant. Make sure you give it a good wash or wipe it down with an IPA like Final Inspection's Cleanse Light (for japanese vehicles) before the wax. You must remove all polish residues completely before waxing great work anyway though, definitely brought some life back to the paint.

hahahahah, well played sir *golf clap*

no one has got it for $100 though, the only guy that can remember said he paid $130. That's a big difference to Harold's price And if you're close to Harold, you can just pick it up and save postage, or organise with a few people and share postage costs. I think he does better prices for bulk orders as well.