SS8_Gohan

oh so it's like, take one piece out and it lets you get to the rest of the screws/clips etc? can the gauge cluster be removed independently?

nice work dude! what are the details? km's? was it from auction or a yard? any mods at all? when will she be on a boat? crazy colour. PM price too please

Hi guys, Doing a massive clean of the clean car at the moment and i want to pull the whole centre section apart. Hard to get into some of the cracks etc, so i figure i'll just dismantle Looking to take the gauge cluster off, and definitely around the gear shift as well. And kinda on topic, is is hard to pop off the window switch surrounds on the doors? wouldn't mind giving those a proper clean as well. cheers, daniel

snpwr: ok, wet-sanding is not something a general hobbyist is going to undertake. So you're already at a level where you're confident with your cars paint, so why on earth would you not correct it properly before applying the LSP, that's my point, and relates back to comments about farecla. If you have a good polish/pad combo, in a few stages, you will have rectified ALL marks left by wetsanding. You either have not stepped down enough in your polish/pads, or not used an aggressive enough polish/pad at the beginning after the wetsanding. You don't use the LSP to "cover" up marks... you do the paint correction properly and THEN apply the LSP. And you have now vastly reduced the metallic flake by applying the 'sealant' that you chose. All that hard work and you just dull it. Here's what i mean... The Front Bar had a horrid respray carried out at some stage. The peel was horrible. It's also painted in Metallic Black, instead of Solid Black So, 2000 grit, wet to remove the 'hills' and level them to the 'valleys'. Polishing to remove wetsanding marring Another wetsanding pass to remove more hills and acheive a flatter finish to match the rest of the car More Polishing to have this section match the gloss level of the car Almost complete That's what i mean. Your polishes and pads should be good enough to rectify any marks you create wetsanding. And that's why i still say Farecla is rubbish. Get some good polishes (menzerna) and good pads, and you won't NEED to use a filler. It's like building a mean RB26, with $$ brakes and suspension and then running 4 space saver spare tyres as your wheels. If you correct properly and don't use a lsp with a crapload of fillers, you then retain all that lovely metallic flake. Which all your hard work should have made as clear as possible greensa14, polishing will be fine and seems like you're already using some good products. OCW is a ripper. Polishing removes very little in the way of paint and especially if it's only 2 years old, you've got nothing to worry about. It's a respray i take it? If so, you're more likely to have more film build than a factory finish, so you've got even more room to play with. If there are marks you can't remove by hand, you'll need a machine, pads and polish. Either get a pro to paint correct for you initially, and then you maintain. Or have a bash yourself.

south dandenong and bayswater, off the top of my head - Status is deadset easy to get to, very close to EastLink. Don't know about RacePace. doesn't really matter anyway. If it takes a while to get to a good tuner, it takes a while to get to a good tuner. It is EASILY worth the time/effort to take your car to a place that knows what they're doing.

as a heads up, my car had this wing, but i removed it. No it's not Nismo anything. None of the kit is Nismo. The TRUE Nismo GT-T looks quite different. It's an Altia kit. Altia were given the specs (blueprints, whatever) for the R34 before release and came up with the 'sports option' kits to be ordered when brand new. Some people get around with just the middle section. It's either a love it or hate it spoiler (most people in the latter camp). Can get the holes metal welded up without too much drama's.

does it sound like wrx at all?? coilpacks on 34's are notorious for dying. But it's an easy fix, not too expensive. Get a good set of Splitfires and you'll be fine. May as well change the plugs whilst you're at it as well

"alot of modes" ? i take it you're running an a/m turbo or highflow? you're best of at .8mm IMO - some good NGK coppers, gapped to .8mm and away you go. I run about 17-18psi, highflow, .8mm gap - 290rwkw

sounds like you got it sorted, but for workshops i would highly recommend Status Tuning (soon to be Chequered Tuning) and also of course Race Pace Motorsports if you need the car checked. Any mods yet? Trent (Status Tuning) can work some real magic if you need something tuned

this thread has been dug OP6 rear housing (R34 rear) is a good candidate for a highflow IMO - i'm running a hypergear one (check the traders section) and it's a good bit of kit

congratulations on the new car Now sign up with SAU Victoria!! Membership is cheap and the rewards are great Plenty of events to get down to as well, to show off the new beast!

doooo eeeettt all PM's replied to as well Sorry no swaps, sale only. Can also be reached on r34skyline at gmail dot com - i'm sure you can figure that out

def MPII because it gets the green flip.... MPIII gets more of the bronze/gold flip Brockas... do you know if the owner kept the standard rear wing mounts?

or you can just buy my car. Everything is aaaaallll done

wanting to get PM access i see

i concur If you need to pass on details to non-SAU people, i can be reached on 0402 - 853 - 813 Just wait until you see this thing full detailed

stunning.... are they taller rear spoiler wing mounts? ash, sold the car!!?

aaaahh DECA... indeed lots of fun. Is it just me or does it never seem to rain at DECA? from the couple i can remember, everyone always seems to get burnt - that skid pan MUST be an absolute riot when it's wet

that's kinda crappy Kev, but i see your point... at least they didn't scratch anything! Are they just glued on?? maybe he/she has like some sort of portable heating device

in other news... (see sig)

...

* FOR SALE! R34 GT-T: Genuine East Bear GTS-R kit * 1 of 2 GENUINE East Bear R34's in Australia! This is it people, it's time to say goodbye to my beloved R34 GT-T with genuine East Bear GTS-R kit. I know some people are going to tell me i'm crazy, and look they're probably right, but it's time to move on. Here's a VERY rare chance to pick up a R34 GT-T not only in fantastic condition, but plenty of tasty mods AND the MOST desirable kit ever made for the GT-T. There are very few cars in Oz that have had owners splash the cash on GENUINE kits, be they East Bear, C-West, Nismo, etc etc, and here's a chance to be even more exclusive again with one of only 2 GT-T's in the ENTIRE country having a genuine East Bear kit. Some cars may have a bumper or a side skirt, but my car has full genuine front bumper, rear bumper, side skirts, lower side skirt and lower rear pods. More and better pics to come... The Details... - 1999 R34 GT-T, Black, 2 door coupe. 90,XXXkm's currently - 1 of 2 GENUINE East Bear kitted R34's in the ENTIRE COUNTRY. But you won't have to worry about running into the other one, as he's in W.A. Own the East Coast of Australia! - Purchased mid-2004 via J-Spec Imports. 48,000km's at the time of purchase and i'm the first and ONLY owner in Australia. - Not registered until mid 2006 in Vic. It spend the first 18months or so of it's life in Australia at a compliance workshop in Sydney. It was a test car for a workshop up there to gain RAWS approval for 34's. It took MUCH longer than they thought or told me. But at least it kept the km's down! Own a piece of history! - Lives most of it's life in a fully enclosed garage. And has had a very easy life on the streets. A few long trips (drove back from Sydney when first picked it up, been to Shepparton and back, and some other long drives down the Great Ocean Rd and out into the Vic Alpine Areas. Most of it's driving is down on Beach Rd in Melbourne at NON-peak hours, generally a straight run at 60km/hr for 15-20mins. Very easy driving, has pratically seen NO stop/start traffic as my work hours are unusual (3:30pm to 11:30pm shifts, of which i mostly take PT anyway) - Only FULL synthetics ever used (and REAL synthetics, none of this fake Castrol Edge stuff) Either Mobil 1, Royal Purple or AMSOil for engine, Redline for gearbox/diff. Synthetic Castrol for power steering fluid. Motul RBF600 for brake fluid. Changed at km intervals OR time... whichever came first 6 months, or say 7500km's. And of course, changed after any track days. - Price: $32,000 (that's pretty much firm) Modifications Engine: - Status Tuning NIStune remap - Maps for both E85/ BP98 to be provided with the car, along with a USB Consult cable to switch between maps if you have a laptop with NISTune. Can even tune the damn thing yourself if you're keen! - Hypergear Highflow Turbo - OP6 rear housing (larger R34 rear housing) - Practically factory looking. - Cooling Pro Return Flow FMIC (utilises stock piping holes, so no part of the car has been cut out) - Blitz High Flow panel filter - Splitfire coilpacks - 740 or 780cc Creatd Highflow injectors (made from stock injectors with the nice 4 hole spray pattern) - Z32 AFM - Intake pipe strengthened with internal steel pipe to stop sucking close - Walbro Fuel Pump - NGK Copper plugs, gapped to .8mm - Blitz DSBC Spec-R boost controller - best aftermarket controller - Jim Berry Single Plate Clutch - Beefiest one he makes, made from GTR parts/pressure plates. Will handle 350rwkw no worries. Firm but easy to live with. - 256rwkw on BP98 - 290rwkw on E85 Exhaust - BATMBL Split front/dump pipe (stainless, 3") - 3" Highflow Cat - 3" HKS Super Dragger Catback (very quiet, doesn't drone). Have had and will have no issues with the police. Exterior - Full East Bear body kit (GENUINE) - 1 of 2 genuine East Bear cars in the ENTIRE country (kit is worth about $6-$7k, not fitted or painted) - Full respray by DT Panels in factory GV1. Respray due to hideous spoiler removal that required spoiler bolt holes to be welded up, fitting of full kit and respraying of bonnet after modified to fit East Bear front bumper. In the end, we decided to spray the whole car. - Detailed twice by Final Inspection and meticulously maintained ever since with only the best products. Car will be fully detailed before hand-over. - Life time warranty with DT Panels. Comments on the car at time of respraying by Vu were "everything is original, never been in an accident and one of the straightest 34's we've ever worked on' - 3M Carbon Fibre vinyl B-Pillars - R34 GTR V-Spec Carbon Fibre rear diffuser - greater stability at high speeds, 100km/hr +. Very expensive item, a few locally in Oz going for around $2,500. Full dry carbon item. (eg. V-Spec rear diffuser link). - Genuine Nismo clear front and side blinkers (bloody rip off these are!) - OEM Xenon headlights. Converted headlights back to D2R Xenon globes (as intended from factory). After-market kit but good quality and nice slim-line ballasts. Suspension - A 'kit' put together as a holistic approach, as opposed to adding as you go. All designed to work together properly. And for those who know, this is the fantastic SydneyKid GroupBuy Suspension Kit. - Bilstein custom revalved shocks (extra circlip grooves to adjust height) - Whiteline Springs - Whiteline Adjustable swaybars front and rear (with extra adjustability than normal whiteline) - Whiteline front/rear camber kit (2 x kits rear to get required camber settings) - Subframe alignment bushes (pineapples, set for maximum grip) - Firm ride but not excessive and still plenty of performance for some track fun. Great for a blast through some twisties as well Brakes - QFM A1RM Brake pads (750 degrees rating) - Nismo braided lines - Brake cylinder stopper - Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid Wheels - 18" R34 GTR Rims (Forged) and powdercoated black. Powder coat tougher than paint. - 245/40/R18 Kumho KU36 Tyres, about 1000km's old. Fantastic tyre, can handle all the killerwasps and torques for the E85 tune. Practically new tyres. - 265/35/R18 Bridgestone TS02's (g3 equivalent here in oz i believe) Were a great tyre before E85 came along, will go with the car. Full set. Use them for DECA, Drift Days, Chapel St, whatever you want. Interior - Pretty much stock besides a Carraozeria CD/MD headunit, with 6 stacker (not mounted but will include) - Discreetly installed location for boost controller. (easily accessible from seated drivers position) - Black interior mats (custom for R34) Have original mats but black looks a million times better - Fire extinguisher (to cover you for any CAMS events) - STOCK instrument cluster, what you see is what you get (km's) Security - Viper 791vx Alarm - Paging alarm with remote pager. Maintenance History - Serviced only with OEM Nissan filters and full synthetic fluids, either on km's or time (6months) due to limited km's i drive. - Stock coilpacks died early on in the piece, very common for 34's. Replaced with Splitfires, never an issue since (about 4 years) - Compliance battery died (got some real cheap, low power one) have been replaced by Odyssey yellow top. Big and chunky, can definitely handle some stereo work if need be. Mechanical Work - All work mechanical work professionally done by Status Tuning (with full receipts for mechanical and tuning time) - All suspension work carried out by one of Vic's top suspension workshops, Traction Tyres. They've installed all the suspension kit and have maintained the car ever since, balance, aligments, tyre changes, etc. Full or near full receipts for all work done here as well. I think that pretty much covers it. Have fussed over this car for many years, first and only owner in Oz, and has run like clockwork for me. Ideally i would never sell it, but it's time to move on SAU Vic knows how anal i am about my car... have been on the end of many a joke about it at many a meet Also been told it's too pretty to race! The car is about to under-go a full-on detail as well, and will be presented to the new owner fully paint corrected, and protected by a sealant topped with a carnauba wax. Most likey a few layers of sealant and a few layers or carnauba. This should see approx 6-8 months of paint protection with a good washing procedure. My rego is due in a few days, so this car will have FULL 12 Months rego as well. Pretty much the entire package Thank you for looking cheers, daniel

Robson has a branch in Singapore do they? interesting... and why the gearboots from a polish joint??? Surely Gary Blackman or moorrabbin blackman could have knocked something up? looks pretty mint though

Robson has a branch in Singapore do they? interesting... and why the gearboots from a polish joint??? Surely Gary Blackman or moorrabbin blackman could have knocked something up? looks pretty mint though

limitation of the rear housing. external gate may help, but i've run some pretty beefy internal gates with mine and same result. But the way i see it, if your engine ain't built i don't mind not having 17psi at redline pretty similar curve to say a HKS 2835ProS, so unless you get something big, i don't think it matters whether it's a highflow/brand name/etc... you won't hold flat boost (well IW anyway). Either need a bigger rear housing, or Ex gate or both perhaps