SS8_Gohan

pretty sure they were XD9's with some pretty epic dish, from memory... - nice, but i'm a TE37 fan i think... will see what rays has to say about some z-tune sizes, 9.5J +5

would it be silly running z-tune sized te37's? i'm assuming they went a little wider due to the slightly beefier guards and the rear arch liner thingies...

19's.... not mucking around! decisions, decisions..... maybe order some custom Z-tune fit from rays, 18 x 9.5 +5

nice any pics of your car mate? and what type of rims you running?

ah... yes that's the other question... if running 265/35's (street tyres).... too small for 10.5's +15's?? right oh.... so 10.5's fit 265 semi's better... interesting... what was Aaron running on his R? 9.5's or 10.5's? for sale thread doesn't seem to mention it want to give it a good home?

hahahahah, it's just a question mate i think i may have answered my own question though... Z-Tune runs 9.5's.... SURELY that must mean they're the optimal rim size? It's a pretty simple connection i've made but it must hold some weight, no? EDIT: Z-Tune rims are 18 x 9.5 +5.... damn super rare rim offsets

apparently the owner is very close to nismo (ie super mega awesome contacts) and was able to get the colour he wanted... plus a few other things i think. pretty f*cken special.... but does it make it more collectible or less?

Hi guys thought i'd ask in here as opposed to in the suspension section, as it's a little more of a performance orientate question. R34 GTR's... is there a performance disadvantage to run 10.5 +15's as opposed to 9.5 +12's? Looking at a lot of the jap workshop cars and a lot seem to be running 9.5J +12, cars with uber money spent and for some reason a lot of them go with that size. Is this the optimal size? From an aesthetic point of view, i would argue the 34's need 10.5 to fill the guards properly but are 10.5's +15 too big for track work and will going that size start to cause some negative effects? cheers, daniel

$50 from the wreckers

you think of ballistic cats? i think some mob in syd sell those. suppose to be the highest flowing ones, but a lot of people seem to claim that. i think you gotta weld flanges onto them, they only sell the body

guys guys.... September 2008.....

postage isn't that bad... aaron @ importmonster.com.au can sort you guys out

cf bonnet?

yeah a few lines were wiggly.... Trent made them straight and power was i think exactly the same, give or take perhaps .1 or .2 rwkw

considering you only used ONE meguiar product in your detail, then in stands to reason you essentially used a glaze as synth sealant contains a fair amount more fillers than say Meguiar's NXT 'wax' product is your paint metalllic?

yes... you POLISH out the imperfections, and correct the paint properly THEN you apply the LSP. If your polish/bad combo's worked properly, you wouldn't need to hide anything with a glaze. The removal of the swirls/wet sanding marks happens in the polishing stage. You don't just attempt to "fill it in" with a glaze. Hence, why go to the full-on trouble of wetsanding, if you're not going to correct it properly and show off the potential of the paint??

mmmm... leather..... i take it you're already aware of Robson... anyways, bump for a seriously sexy pair of seats... very reasonable price too.

^ ok, continue to live your fantasy land then... meanwhile in the real world (that's quickly turning to shit)... Martin did you have any other concerns about the switch to E85 as opposed to fuel delivery? not fuel line type concerns.... more with internal engine components and oil choice?

what size injectors you got there Nick? yeah, when Trent tuned my car after changing to the Southland fuel, things were a little out of whack... i imagine you just did the same things with mine that you did with Hamish's?

Traction Tyres did a great price on them for me Roy... Shane will look after ya if you mention you're a Vic member By the time you buy them cheap for somewhere else like Option1 or OTR and get them fitted/balance, i think TT came out a shade cheaper... or maybe $10 more expensive. Much easier to deal all with them and support a supporter

i think you'll find his car is far from N/A..... try RB26, with some help from Race Pace you still have stock suspension even after all the work you've done? if so, you're a brave man... I have 290rwkw, ~560nm and no traction issues with KU36's and SydneyKid's suspension kit. SK's kit can be easily replicated with off the shelf stuff. Mainly whiteline parts but with bilstein shocks. Not ridiculous spring rates, but still firm and can handle street and track duties. But the old bridgestones i had were not up to the task, only once i switched to the KU36's did i get full traction back. I would start with sway bars and good tyres, and go from there.

transport isn't too bad i didn't think between states?

my FMIC had a leaky join (nothing a good norma clamp didn't fix) that sounded like the stock turbo was on the way out... but i eventually tracked it down to the FMIC area and got a couple $4 norma clamps, and redid all the joins/piping etc... pulled it apart, put it back together nice and tight and it was sweet. It sounded nasty, and was like a high pitch scream kinda but was only a leak in the end and the turbo was 100% when we pulled it off and put a highflow on.

hmmm... nagtroc thread deleted... weird

thought that was the case, i knew the 10w60 for Edge wasn't fully synthetic... not that uncommon for the same type of oil to only be full synth in a certain weight.