SS8_Gohan

Is the getrag on the limits with this power level? or is it in the safe(er) zone still?

f*cken awesome! thanks mate!! i've since found out i can order through my parents company, but not like the main company, some spin-off one so i can meet the 50% rebate requirements, so $1900 is fine. I was actually looking at the i5 750 i think, because i read that can be oc easily and relatively safely. But if i can get all the for $1900 then sweet. Sounds like you are pretty damn serious with your work... got a website/folio to have a look-see? so let me get this straight, you have... 23" x 24" x 23" - that's the monitor setup? dear jeebus... with the 50% tax thingy... i was contemplating getting a 30" dell and then maybe a 20" a put that in portrait mode? for the work you do, would you recommend a 24 x 24 setup (don't think i'll go 3 monitors) or perhaps 1 x 30" or 30" with a 20" EDIT: are the SSD's a necessity with Maya or say After Effects?

are the... lower skirts (rear/side) front bumper bonnet genuine Nismo or local products?

Hey Kristian, you mentioned better buying at the end of the year.... how much better are we talking? Is it like THE time to buy, in december? are the other comparable good times to buy throughout the year?

rotex :drools: Mark, should check out forums.finalinspection.com.au - lots of great info and great products too need to go to japan for car detailing?? what the hell for? There are NO top detailing products coming out of Japan. Period. Best polishes? German/Australian Best waxes? European/Australian Australia is included due to Final Inspection's product line-up. You're calling me an amateur and your thread is titled "stay away from polishes and waxes.... use clear coat"? ALL our cars have a clear coat! And generally damn soft ones as well... so you're advice is..... use nothing?? Very "professional" Your 'climat' ain't going to do SHIT for that V35, in the condition it was. THERE IS NO MIRACLE ONE-STOP PRODUCT! You can get products with fillers, tints, etc... but you NEED a polish to carry out the paint correction after the proper prep work. And you contradict yourself all over the place That hazing and buffing... that's a wax/sealant you retard! And yes, the clear is applied at the factory - so why the f*ck are we "staying away from waxes" when the very stuff you're applying is essential a wax? f*cking amateur...

thread is going nowhere fast - please lock. if we all agree it should be a private matter, lets keep it that way. /thread

aahh... interesting seems like run of the mill oils car manu's don't have issues with.. but it seems the high end oils aren't necessarily suited.... interesting i should probably do an UOA on the Amsoil when i change it next

no offence emsta, i know you're just interested to see what people think... but i can only think of the simpsons tree house of horrors episode where Homer steals the donut from lard lad. And the jingle "just don't look" i think the thread should be locked

wanna try it on my car? i'm down at Trent's on friday

what are your thoughts about one of your new wastegate actuators (the upgraded beefy ones you'll run on the .82 rears) on OP6 G3 i have?

hahahah, me????? of course not... Stao will be happy, he's always telling me to run 30psi

20psi yeah? did you guys have a chat about boost level on stock internals?

not much, but some advice from bitog "High PAO, low ester, high TBN IMO. You want something with excellent hydrolytic stability and acid fighting properties. Mobil 1 Extended Performance, Amsoil, and I think some grades of Fuchs would probably be great choices for you." i'm running 5w30 Amsoil at the moment, previously 5w30 RP - but yeah, happy to try others if you've got the inside scoop Trent EDIT: the other thing i found, which isn't much, is that for the owners manuals of the u.s. flex fuel cars, they don't recommend any specific oil, just that it needs to be changed more regularly (3,000 miles seems to be the norm)

so if we come down early, and book-in, does that come with a time or is it too hard to say "you've got time slot 8:45pm" ?

something i did look into with my oil choices. I found some stuff saying Royal Purple was suited to E85, but to be honest i couldn't find a whole lot about it. Asked about it over at bitog.com but didn't get much of a response. Did pretty much confirm that you need to change oil a decent amount more frequently due to the E85 though. When you talk about wear Trent... are you talking on engine components or UOA of the oil? Hopefully you're talking about the oil

and you're saying this car wouldn't pass inspection if that happened?? Is the price firm Aaron?

ah right'o for those who cbf clicking Year: 1999 km's: 40,000km's km's on go fast bits: 3,000km's

^ why? you can just transfer rego couple things year and km's? how many km's since built? price is firm? cheers, daniel

just drive to hoppers to get fuel, as Hamish says, worth the trip. My R34 is permanently on E85, street duties, track duties... E85 all the way I got Creatd to highflow my stock injectors, because the stockers have a nice 4 hole pattern, they're now 780cc i believe.

sooo... what should i be buying??

aaaahh... i was thinking the graphics card would be needed mostly for the 3d stuff... so the things i'm interested in, digital imaging (photoshop), flash, 3d, motion graphics... the speed of these things are more determined by the cpu as opposed to the graphics card? hmm... is there any sense in buying an ok cpu and workstation card? or more sense to buying a really good cpu, and an average consumer graphics card?

^ never heard of either well if you say a workstation cards is $1k+ on it's own... it's probably going to be outside my budget (unless all the other components can be had for around the same price) i did multimedia at uni, but have been out of it for a few years and looking to get back in. Maya was the preferred 3d program, and i liked after effects for motion graphics. I'm sure there are a lot more programs out there now, but these would be where i would start to get back in. As for version? whatever the latest is i suppose. well.. put it this way, what sort of $$ are we looking for a very good graphics card (non-workstation) and is the price difference between that and a workstation card justifiable?

hahahahah - well i am behind the times, never heard of a workstation card. i dunno, say... $1500? Want to get it through my dad's work whilst the tax/rebate thingy is still kicking around actually, that maybe bump the budget up... it's 30% isn't it?

yeah, but i don't know which parts to choose as i said, most likely get everything from MSY or second hand

ok, PC is 6+ years old now, i think, and it's just not quite coping anymore unfortunately time for upgrade! Been out of the parts/pc game for a while, so have not much clue what's going on these days. Don't have a budget at this stage, but i'm imagining a trip to MSY and either build it myself, or pay them the $50 to build it. Requirements: -I'm not a gamer -3D (maya, etc) -Motion graphics (After effects, etc) -Capable of video editing -Flash (meh) -Photoshop -Maybe some Objective C type work, but can't imagine object o programming has gotten resource hungry these days? -Windows 7 I have a Dell 24" monitor, but not sure whether to go 2 x 24" Dell or 1 x 30" something... or a 1 x 30", 1 x 20" Portrait PC is in my room, so quietness is important. Some thoughts i had.. - quad core (and maybe overclock? never done this, but i like making my car go faster ) - 6gb ram or maybe 12? - perhaps a small SSD? like a 30gb one?? for video editing? and that's probably the extent of my knowledge. What's the cheapest i could get away with all this and what do y'all recommend?? Happy to buy 2nd hand stuff too arigato!!