SS8_Gohan

oooo, how much did it go for?? thought we were talking about this one Eugene over at Global http://www.global-auto.ne.jp/stock/public_...amp;model=BNR34

hey mate, can you ask the guy if would be able to do some 'group buy' type prices at all?

i saw that too... looks like an awesome piece of kit. Problem is though... HKS Fcon.... you'd have to ditch that or live in syd or perth and be stuck with 1 tuner. what would this be landed+compiled eugene??

funny that Bimmers don't run castrol from factory anymore... Only Castrol i would run would be Castrol Syntec (German castrol) i know then it's a true synthetic. Castrol/Shell, etc, all have done too many dodgies with synthetics over the years. R32 GTR from factory was recommended to run 7.5w30 - where you find 7.5 beats me! you can make your own blend i guess. If you pop into the 'forced induction' section, you'll find a lot of big powered RB26's, 25's, whatever, running oil like Motul 300V and VERY few would be in the 10w60 - only the serious of race engines would be needing that sort of weight/viscosity. Everyone else would be in the 5w30, to 10w40 range. Both very popular. My car is running E85, makes 287rwkw, boost at 18.5psi and runs a 5w30 that has seen a few track days. Stock internals, bolt on mods only. Despite using different brands, i keep it at 5w30, and if i did a summer track day, would probably change to 10w40. The shear factor, quality, etc, of oils these days is so far beyond what it use to be that you'd be silly to run 10w60 on a mainly street driven car, IMO. But catcus's car sounds like it's going to see quite a bit of action, so he'll have more of a decision to make than most. If you're really keen catcus, you can do a UOA (used oil analysis) after each change to see how things are going. Tells you how the additives in the oil are holding up, plus a whole host of other things that can give you early warning signs on the health of your engine. My opinion, as stated already, go with tuner/builder for the run-in period - and from there, run a group V oil - i say that because it sounds like your car is going to see lots of action. Motul 300V or Redline. pick one. and if you're still not sure, head over to 'bob is the oil guy' (google it) and you'll have every conceivable piece of info you need.

interested in parts of the interior if you're willing to separate

you are in WA, so you'll be getting more heat than some of us, but how much racing is your engine going to see? 10w60 i would consider in the extreme race category. And if it's for that purpose, you certainly wouldn't be running Castrol edge, you would be Group V at the least. 10w60 i don't believe is even a full synthetic in the Edge range. The way i see it, if your car is mainly street driven, you want the protection from the start and when cold. That's where the damage happens (the most, relatively speaking), that's where you want the most help. I ran 0w40 Mobil 1 for a while, then 5w30 RP, and now just changed to 5w30 AMSoil. I don't want some heavy, thick, oil struggling to get around my engine when it needs lubrication the most. I want a 0w, 5w to do what it's meant to do, lubricate, when the engine needs it the most. The greater the range, also means the greater the additives to the oil, which compromises the oil to a certain degree. Decide based on what life your engine is going to have, and how much track time it's going to see. But either way, for the run in period, definitely go with what the builder recommends and AFTER that i would probably go with a known quantity for the old RB, which is Motul 300V - Group V, reasonably priced against Redline - and cheap insurance considering how much coin you've dropped on your build.

Royal Purple can be sourced from www.performancelub.com 10-60 sounds pretty ridiculous to me - but you said it's a freshly built engine, so who knows, might change the game a bit. But Moodles2 advice is right, go with what your builder recommends. He/she just built, he doesn't want to blow it up now does he The days of 10w60 are gone IMO, something like 5w30 is where most of our cars should be at, and true synthetic oil. Can't really go wrong then.

where bouts are you located? personally, i would go Trent over Dr Drift

macca, this car is actually for sale again, first sale fell through. Contact the R34 Wong

not really... all depends on how many hours the tuner spends - my Nistune remap by Trent @ Status was $750 all up i'm pretty sure. That's all the soldering, installation, tune, etc. Then i think it's about $80/hr for tuning when you come back with "upgrades" not 100% sure.. i would HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend Trent @ Status Tuning. Nistune or whatever other option you go for. But especially Nistune

flyz33, stunning mate. Look like 19's? is that a JSAI ztune bar/bonnet or genuine Nismo?

have not seen.... but was suitably impressed half the time looks like a real person in there, and the other half is like what the f*ck? is this thing like remote controlled or something? hahhaha, the face plants and violent convulsing are hella funny

hahah, tow car... you make it sound like something normal! should get the plates, A380 or something - if it's the massive beast i'm thinking of... did you go with Hychill refill??

muchos gracias senior munkeh

just thinking about this the other day anyone interested in a group buy hychill? like a group buy car tint day etc?

Farecla.... nasty stuff Menzerna is where it's at for polishes

yes, Trent @ Status Tuning got it up and boogieing with the E85 (Nistune remap) Skylines aren't tuned for any particular fuel per se, more likely there is a MINIMUM octane rating you'd want to run, ie 98 or higher (don't forget Japan has better fuel than us. I would guess most the modified cars over there would run 100 or higher) Ethanol boosts the octane rating, so saying 10% with 95 Unleaded is going to be a poorer grade of fuel, might not necessarily be true. E85 for instance is around the 110 octane range, and i believe United mix it with 91 Unleaded. You can buy a 85%/98 blend in drums but you could argue a 85%/91 blend is 'safer', but perhaps a 85%/98 blend would net you bigger power gains. It's funny but there are actually better detonation prevention qualities to LOWER octane fuel than higher. Be interesting to see the differences back-to-back of a TUNED E10/95 blend, with a straight BP 98. The E10 could very well be safer for your engine.

i have never heard of jesse.... interesting... will definitely sus it out next time i'm after parts

hahaha, more tom haters... wonder what the hell this guy's problem is

couldn't you actually run a touch more timing because of the higher ethanol content? stop pussy footing around peoples, E85 is where it's at car has been running exclusively on E85 for.... dunno, good few months now - all good so far. Including 1 track day.

hahhahahah, this reminds me.. i needed to start a thread on this absolute f*cking muppet, i've got an email convo as well

dude, narkeh was being sarcastic! anyways... i'm surprised Traction Tyres hasn't been mentioned, they WILL look after you as a SAU Vic member (make sure to mention that) There's actually a bit of skill involved to getting a good alignment (and not to mention vast differences in equipment between places like TT and franchise store suspension). Once everything is said and done, take it to the boys at Traction Tyres, show em what's happened so far and what's been done and tell them to get it all back to normal. They have the best equipment and some of the best people. AND they don't charge the earth unlike some of 'big name' suspension places. You'll be looked after as a SAU Vic member

yep. Depending on how bad, he can fix with the tyres still on. But obviously if it's deep and nasty, it's a tyre off job.

Craig @ Colour Ur Mags or Rims, can never remember which. Avoid the big players in Moorabbin, rip off central. Craig is a bit eccentric, and it looks like you dropping your rims off in some back yard workshop, but the quality is great and at a very reasonable price point. Had my 34 R rims power coated, but he can paint as well.