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SS8_Gohan

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Everything posted by SS8_Gohan

  1. no Dan, it's, "you know what they sais"... but yes, a picture would help
  2. i think you're getting confused with that bullshit R35 100K tear-down rumour
  3. you don't need to change every 1000km's, especially with such a good oil like 300V - 10K is fine, or 6 months, whichever comes first. Castrol EDGE seems to be a Group IV, and i guess a pretty cheap group iv at that (i swear when it first came out it was a III) but it seems there is a 'Sports' version that may be a Group III (gotta do some more digging) Mobil 1 is a funny one, as with a few oil brands it depends on what weight/viscosity you get. Ie, a 0w30 could be a Group IV+ but the same named oil in 10w40 could be Group III. Makes things confusing and i know Mobil 1 has copped some heat regarding some of their range. Mobil and Castrol are generally a little cagey about what base stock everything else, but you're always well off to do an UOA anyway. If you really want the absolute best, just buy Redline.
  4. i'm with you, i'd hunt a V-Spec or V-Spec II - despite a few more goodies, i'm sure it would help you move later on if you wanted to.
  5. mmm, that reminds me. i have to dig through that DIY thread and fix up all my stuff... man it's a shit finish
  6. "sais"???? dear me... +1 for traction control location. maybe a feature you can use to sell the car if you ever do... in cabin adjustable exhaust noise and LOL at birds
  7. ^^ hahaha, or lots of mods the Chef does have a good point though, with that budget, you're leaving yourself thin on the ground in case something goes wrong. The budget would seem to indicate the cheapest possible end of the R34 GTR market? at the moment Chef, what would you budget for a nice example out of Japan?
  8. my experience at Race Brakes was shitehouse so would be keen to know how you go at Better Brakes (they are miles closer too) And i'm sure Traction Tyres would be more than up for the job as well. You have a specific performance workshop you take your car too? i'm sure most the big tuners would have preferred places .... hmmm... think i'll ask Trent today when i'm down there
  9. It's seems there's lots of movement in regards to what oil is what group... Some of the Mobil 1's are apparently not Group IV or higher - Castrol EDGE is apparently Group IV but Edge Sport is Group III - and now there is talk that some of the very new Group III's are competition for the old Group IV's... damn confusing if you ask me. bobistheoilguy members would be hard masters that's for sure. I'd love to run Redline all the time but it's really pushing in terms of $$ and considering you should change after every track day... it could get very pricey. Waiting for my account to be verified at bitog so i can dig around
  10. it was Marcus!!! "take him! he's the one that wronged you!" sux teh balls mate oh and warming your car up for 3 mins = useless
  11. were they using Edge SPORT or just Edge?
  12. hahahah, you know Dietmar?? - but yes, whatever the name of Dietmar's shop is, that would be another one i'd recommend. there's a sticky for this isn't there?
  13. GAL smash repairs or MCR? Primal Garage is a known one, but not sure will be the quality you're after. A friend owns a top Euro panel beater in Stanley St, West Melb but can't remember the name of the shop...
  14. switched to E85 and which means it's running approx 30% more fuel - doing figures like 480cc = 480hp = 358kw, less a bit for drive train = 310-320rwkw that's ok for pump fuel, E85 won't fit into that equation unfortuantely - so up i went. Bit disappointing to lose the nice spray of the Nismo's, but trade off in idle/tuning and probably consumption had to be made. PM sent
  15. Castrol Edge is Group III base oil - it's never been full synth, unless they've changed something recently (which i highly doubt) They just threw lots of money at advertising (Fast and Furious, etc) Mobil 1 (although some discussion on validity), Royal Purple and the Motul tested are definitely true synths. No idea bout Nulon but Castrol definitely isn't.
  16. www.performancelub.com anything you ever wanted in terms of lubricants for you car can be found there (well, except for powersteering/coolant) Everything he sells are Group IV, IV/V or V I'm using Royal Purple 5w30, but will switch to Amsoil next. Apparently a slightly better oil (Group IV/V blend) but little price difference. Castrol Edge would market their oil as synthetic, as would the Shell one (Helix?), Havoline something-a-rather, but they're all Group III. I'd have to have a look at a bottle, to see if they listed anything that would show it's a true synthetic. Is this a new oil for them? Maybe they do make true synths now... The points pretty much mute anyway because of somewhere like performancelub.com - can get the best stuff for the prices of some of the fake synths
  17. useless test and Castrol edge isn't even a full synth did i read Nulon paid for it? hardly an impartial test....
  18. Hi guys, Putting my Nismo 480cc injectors up for sale. Top feed, 4 hole spray pattern, very nice atomisation. Should be good for 300rwkw, and could be pushed a bit if you are also running an adj fuel pressure reg I got these second hand from japan (off a Z33) and i would have only used them for say 1000km's, if that even. Worked flawlessly, no issues what-so-ever and installed and taken out by the boys at Status Tuning. No diy, only the pro's installed/uninstalled these. Very hard to find and one of the few good options for the NEO RB25DET. 4 hole spray pattern is much nicer than the sards, etc - ask your tuner Price: $750 (check out the brand new prices of these, $1300+) the boxes are just the ones they came with from japan. cheers, daniel
  19. how people tell if an oil is working pretty well is kinda beyond me (without doing a UOA). No one is going to be able to tell what's going on inside the engine (unless something catastrophic is happening). It's pretty simple, just get a REAL synthetic (99.9% sure Nulon would not make one) and don't go too thick (unless racing a lot) and change at about ~10k or 6 months IF you've bought a top quality oil. People seem to be judging how good some semi-syn oils are on the fact their cars are still working - just because a car is running doesn't mean the oil is any good. Just use REAL full synths.
  20. them big injectors don't think they're straight drop-in's? and your tuner may have issues tuning with them... what problems are you having?
  21. bah, all these options coming out.. i have a set of Nismo 480cc if anyone wants them, shoot me a PM. 4 hole spray patter, nice atomisation (none of that sard crap) and DEFINITELY a straight drop in. Should see ya to 300rwkw without drama's
  22. unrelated, but 10-60 oil? i take it's purely a track car then... my bc solenoid use to tick as well
  23. Bass's 2835pro S shouldn't be dropping so much. Just check out joeyjoe's car.. same turbo and can hold boost fine. The rear housing on those turbo's are big enough to flat line. It's gotta be something else. My rear housing on the other hand (OP6 in a highflow) is questionable if it can hold that sort of boost flat line. But it's just interesting we're both using Just Jap coolers (well, very similar), pushing the same sort of #'s, and have similar boost outcomes. I'm going back to the tuner on Monday and i guess will just do a process of elimination. The car is tuned, so we don't need to worry about that. It'll just be testing pressures i guess (like you did Bass), boost leak test perhaps, and maybe even change BOV to a GTR one. You've got a GTR BOV yeah?
  24. hmmm... this is interesting. I'm having the same problem mate, although it could be the size of my rear housing, i guess it could also be my cooler (more things to check out) here's my boost curve... don't think we've checked the pressure differential... plus something is howling like a mo fo, maybe somethings up with the cooler... EDIT: i'm using the Just Jap Stealth version cooler. So i guess we have the same cores but different piping. EDIT2: We also dropped the exhaust in testing, and got the same result as yourself, didn't make difference to boost
  25. standard internals? 23psi?? what's with people running massive boost on un-opened engines?? i think hamish is like 23psi as well on his 33??
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