SS8_Gohan

hmm... this maybe what i need for my boost to hold a bit better... will any GTR BOV do? as in 32/33/34? or will i need a 34 one?

any GTR bov? or does it have to be R34? and i take it a GTR has two, so i'd only need one?

did an E85 tune Stao.. Can't hold boost. Reckon the OP6 is too small??

hey Hamish, here are the results from the E85 tune... didn't crack 300 because of this... can't hold boost. We think it might be the rear housing (OP6).

cat or decat?

wouldn't know how to check for manifold/gasket leaks howl can get pretty damn loud and wouldn't have the foggiest about the belts trying to get the car ready for a track day tomorrow, but just don't want to chance it... went for a drive with bumper off, howl is there. Came back, fiddled with and tightened up the pipe the tuner spotted one time (i think it's slowly working it's way loose) went for a drive, seem to have gone. Bumper back on, went for a drive... doesn't seem like it's there. Let it cool, to come back and check pipe again... Checked pipe, looks to not have moved... went for a drive, howly mc howl howl again - come back, completely loosen pipe/clamp, shove in, tighten up. Go for a drive, slightly better but not my boost controller is beeping at me which i guess means something is spiking a bit and my BOV is still thinking it's on chapel st. so combo of BOV and howl, going to have to skip the track day tomorrow at what power/torque would we be expecting the BOV to give up?

i'm going to take the bumper off now and go for a drive, and hope i don't attract too much attention with the shiny FMIC sticking out the front

it has howled on the dyno before, and i'm pretty sure it's not just air passing through the bumper because the noise is dependent on your right foot, not speed, if that makes sense. ie, i could cruise at 100km/hr and not hear anything, but put my foot down, wait for boost to build and it will make itself apparent. that and i'll rack up the 'warnings' on my boost controller when it happens, and get 'peak warnings' when i get that muffled whump sound. Almost certain it's a boost related issue, as opposed to air around the bumper (which has never been an issue until we've started upping the power/boost on the car) is there a certain level that the stock BOV out lives its usefulness? i thought it was fine for some fairly decent power

Please list the full mods of what's been done to the CA

Hi guys'n'gals I have this elusive howling noise that i just can't seem to get rid off... and it seems to be doing funny things. The main problem is that it doesn't seem to howl on the dyno anymore (where it use to) and you can't tell or it's harder to hear it when on the dyno, as opposed to in the car on the road. This is annoying, as we can't really check something when it's just not there (dyno) On the street, the howl builds as boost builds and if you really give it some stick, something seems to "give" or "let go" before rev limit. Like a muffled whump, as if perhaps something is blowing off... but doesn't Hard to explain. First time it happened, i was thinking "that must be what it sounds like when a cooler hose blows off, etc", but everything is fine and in one piece Ok, now the weird thing, one day was at the tuners, a loose hose was spotted, fitted it more tightly, tightened clamp and i went to take a test drive. The difference this time around is that i had removed the front bumper in case we needed to get access to the FMIC. When i took the car for a drive, without the front bumper it did not howl at all I'm like sweet, that loose hose must have been it, and we're all good. Get back, chuck the bumper back on, drive home and you guessed it... howl is back. The front bumper has a fair whack of room around it on the inside, so it doesn't seem to be pushing up against anything,etc but i can't explain why no bumper would make any difference. The other weird thing is that it won't howl on the dyno anymore, just on the road, which again, doesn't make much sense to me. (It has howled on the dyno before, but was easily audible) It's near impossible for the tuner to fix because the only want to test/fix it is when it's on the dyno, but it won't howl on the dyno. Can't fix something that's not really there to begin with. I'm trying to get the car ready for a track day on Saturday, but i'm not taking the car out as is as i'm concerned something might just blow up/off, it's a horrible sound. Oh, and i've got a stock BOV, but i've noticed when you really give it some stick, and the howl ends up with that muffled "whump", the BOV sounds like a damn chapel st spec HKS, it's like sututututu... :blink: "sutututu" from a stock BOV?? Was under the impression that is a bad sound for the turbo... I'll try and get to the tuners tomorrow, but would welcome any thoughts cheers, daniel

what's your peak torque on pulp and E85?

peak of 524.5nm of torque Hamish and no traction issues (well, in the dry) and that's with only a half finished SK kit

bugger, let me know if you need a back up, i'll shoot off an email as well.

school holidays it seems, you = don't own a Nur

explain? you had your car detailed there once yeah? then sold to taka?

just checked the regulations, and noticed a few things Tow hooks? do we need like a sticker or something pointing to where it is?? i'm not sure where mine is, but i have a feeling it would be hard to get if it's around the front bumper area Two methods of securing the bonnet? I don't have bonnet pins or anything like that... does that mean i'm kinda stuck when it comes to this area? And you have to tape up your headlights yeah?

if you get black rims, i reckon black plates with white might set it off nicely

Hey Stao, what would the response difference be like between what i'm running and the .63?

some weird stuff in this thread no, you can't send your car back to japan and get it sprayed all for $7k, i may have missed the joke on this. Plus the Japanese are NOT known for the panel beating prowess... yes you can get cheap resprays, cheap 99.9% = crap. $5-7k is probably the MINIMUM a good rep place would charge for nice, relatively flat finish. $7k i would say is a top quality panel beater, with a result you won't have to worry at all about. There are SOME places around that can do good jobs for around $2-3K (DT Panels in melbourne for example), but they are few and far between. Try and find a workshop that deals mainly in imports. Please detailed your polishing process. Was it by hand or machine? What are these "good" products? If machine, what machine, what pads and what polishes Take some pics... i'm leaning towards a pro detail to solve your problems, and i'll post some pics to why i think this a little later. Once you learn a little about painting and what's involved, you very quickly understand why some jobs cost $2k and why some cost $10k.

oh... right o

Trent's dyno sure as doesn't read high? compared to RE's roller, i think my car at Trent's was less 2-3rwkw. From what little i know, i think the main thing in this thread is that 19.5psi on stock internals is a bit of a ticking time bomb, regardless of the tune i thought... 18psi is pushing it, and that's NEO head which flows better, so a non-NEO RB25, 19.5psi i can't see lasting long. Never know though, see how you go

ok guys, my car is now running on E85. It's a NISTUNE remap and i don't have the cable or software yet, so yeah... can't switch if i run out of fuel in the middle of nowhere Thought i'd add some thoughts on the injector talk. I've got 480cc Nismo's at the moment in the car, and stock FPR. We're running out of injectors at around 260rwkw, 15psi. By rough calculations, 480cc = 480hp = ~350kw less 50kw drive-train loss = 300rwkw. That's what i was thinking... but yes, forgot to add that there is a 30% fuel increase with E85 So yah, we ran out... bugger. To add to more good results with this fuel, i was getting 250rwkw at 17.5psi and with 2.5psi less, and not quite a flat AFR (runs pretty rich near top end, there's a little bit there if that's flattened out) we got +10rwkw, increased full boost response by about 100-200rpm and about 30nm more torque i believe. Don't have the dyno sheet, but yeah, basically the curve moved left and up, a weird looking combo, but cool none-the-less getting some 740cc injectors asap. My tuner doesn't like adj FPR's, so we didn't go down that road.

^ hahah, fellow Detail Addition members... unite! yes, you need to ditch that nasty chamois/sponge looking thing and get some Aquatouch MF wash mitts. www.finalinspection.com.au - EVERYTHING you need to look after the car properly is there.

wehey! that's my car... first things first... This bootlid had wet-sanding carried out to achieve that flat finish, correction work undertaken by Damian. It may have been polished by george, but a vast chunk of the result was achieve by flattening out the peel, and Damian did that by wetsanding that panel. George did work on my car and from all accounts, is quite competent and efficient when it comes to detailing. He has indeed achieved some good results detailing at what i presumed would be his own garage. If you're looking for someone that's the "same class" as Damian @ Final Inspection, you're going to need a passport because you just won't find it in Australia, period. Having said that, George did work for the best and should be proficient in all the correct techniques required to complete a good detail, whilst using good products (i would imagine he'd use the same products as FI), so he would seem to be a good option if you can't make it to Campbellfield.

are they new new? thought they were discontinued?