SS8_Gohan

Yep, running flex-fuel as well Pushing the little G4 a bit - that is an E85 result, i very very rarely have to put 98 in these days. Yeah, i've come across varying opinions across different workshops, so it's great to have someone you can throw stuff at and get nutted out with great results. It's great to see more and more flex-fuel setups since we did mine, and more people interested in and talking about it. One of the great things about Trent is that he's willing to give things a go, unlike some workshops who told me my old GT-T would die running E85, fuel lines corroding, injectors/fuel pumps being destroyed etc... funny to see these same people years later singing E85 praises hahaha, especially on this setup... full advance!!! Thanks mate more people with flex-fuel setups the better! cleaner cars and more E85 demand hopefully leading to more E85 outlets win win - as for Vcam, perhaps i should look more into getting a local kit made...... i believe it's something like that... idle is rock-steady and very smooth/quiet. It's small, but another advantage of the Vcam. I know the resolution of the cam map is greater than the HKS controller, but i haven't actually seen it in graphical form, i need to update my Link software. Plus, i'll leave it up to Trent about how much he wants to divulge i suppose of out curiosity, is there much interest in a locally made Vcam kit??

fail multi quote

United has been very consistent the whole time i've been using... i guess almost a year now. Never seen it below 82 or above 85 - that is absolutely no issue what-so-ever for the tune quite a few ecu's are capable to be flex-fuel (to be pedantic 'eflex' is Caltex's high ethanol % fuel, not the ability to run any mixture) - with a 5v signal maybe even a pfc could? who knows... but the G4 is still a proven piece of kit regardless if you have it set for flex-fuel or not, it's still a great ECU. It's a good choice, but not your only choice if you want to go flex-fuel (which of course you want to! ) Trent's your man too, easily has the most experience with E85 in Melbourne (poss in the country) and was the first flex-fuel (my car) and done quite a few since. Also very familiar with GTR's as well... obviously

just use heaps of lube and remember to check the clay bar regularly, and even if it looks clean, still keep folding it in on itself regularly as well.

the OP is trolling, just wants to sell the stuff

in tank nismo has got me there, and no fueling issues (using too much fuel! hahaha) but the new 400 Walbro's seem to be the way to go now for big power E85 setups

depending how contaminated you're paint is depends on the level clay you need - eg for a car that's sat outside most its life, living under a eucalypt, will probably need a heavier clay to really do a proper decon but with the heavier grade clay, you'll most likely marr the paint... not a huge deal as if you're needing to use a heavy clay, you're most likely needing to polish it as well. the finer grade clay, yes you should be able to get away without marring the paint, but it's still very easy to do if you're not checking the clay often. Something that hasn't been mentioned is that you need to constantly keep folding the clay in-on-itself so you have a fresh surface regularly. In a pinch, you can use a pH neutral car shampoo diluted down, but some shampoos will have a greater detrimental effect on the clay bar than a dedicated lube will. personally i use FI's Clay bars... their fine grade clay is much finer than the blue clay magic. The other really important thing to do after a claying is to give some sort of protection, wax or sealant. But you need to clean the car REALLY well after as clay residue is not going to help your LSP out at all. I use FI's Cleanse at the end (after a wash) to cut through any remaining residue, but really get all the clay residue off very thoroughly before moving onto the LSP. Another tip is to put your piece of clay in a bowl of warm water before you start, just for a little, so it's then nice a pliable.

Now as I understand it, yes V-cam has been setup on non-Fcon cars (RP have done a couple Power FC examples) but i still believe they run the HKS electronics and controllers to build the V-cam map. (could be wrong on this) - what i asked Trent @ Chequered Tuning to do was different, i asked if the G4 could do ALL the controlling and we ditch all of the HKS electronics. I know the G4 can control variable timing setups, so why not Vcam? So in typical me fashion, i think of something a little different (ie Flex-Fuel) and hand Trent a box of parts and say "kthanxbye!" This was a bit of a mission compared to the Flex-Fuel, and i thought maybe i had asked a bit much this time but Trent as usual, delivered the goods and we now have the Link G4 directly controlling the V-cam, and the plus side to this is that not only do you get a much higher resolution map than what you get with the HKS electronics, you now have all manner of additional parametres to tweak and compensation tables can be added for things like oil pressure etc. Thus the benefit of going directly off the G4 with all the updated capabilities it has. Considering how much the ECU costs, and what i've asked for it do now... 'tis a good bit of kit! I got some dyno sheets, but i asked for the wrong ones (my fault), so here's the phone pic Trent me after some tuning... This is a pretty conservative tune too as i understand, quite a bit back in terms of timing at the top end and fueling is on the richer side too i believe. So i think there is still a little in the setup to go... One thing to keep in mind is that this is the baby V-cam, range of swing is the smallest - as i'm 99% sure i have N1 pistons, i couldn't go any bigger. Down the track, if it comes time for a rebuild or freshen up, i'll make sure to get the pistons to allow for the Type B range of Vcam. As we've been sorting out some MAP vs TPS issues, the graphs are a little lazier than what the car actually has been setup for previously, so you can shift most of that to the left a little more as well when it's back to where we want it If Trent finds the thread, i'm sure he'll have some more to add but she really is nice to drive and as with all 'new' things, there were some hurdles along the way but the end result is worth it A million thanks again to Trent & Cat for once again entertaining my different ideas and coming through with the goods! There are some possibilities opened by this setup that didn't exist before... that is locally developed V-cam (as a lot of people are on newer gen ECU's, i'm sure there are a lot of variable timing capable) but perhaps that's a project for a different day hahahah - the benefit of this setup is that if replicated you wouldn't have to take the head off (ie RB25 NVCS retro mods) making it much cheaper. wonder how she'd go with setup replicated on exhaust side............................................... lol

meh... i remember he posted up a detail on a black car a while back, used a glaze on it (ie fillers)... not really impressed tbh

looks great - it's basically a scaled-down, more "all-in-one" option of what Trent did with my car, and what Unigroup did with Piggaz's car - i'd definitely be going that road now, but it's about the same price as a new GM sensor, so there's not much point switching now for me, but for others, definitely makes the flex-fuel setup a bit more streamlined.

Chequered Tuning sorted one out for a 500wkw+ 34 R, i think running a couple of those new Walbro's that everyones finding to be good choice with E85 - all went together ok as far as i know

^ he's in Canada.... ey

need more details what's happened to the car? is it insured? if so, do you have choice of repairer? if not, what are the choices you've been given by your insurance co?

technically speaking it's an R-Tune bonnet did you go Nismo or replica bonnet? you'll probably find if it's a replica, it's heavier than the stock aluminium one

still need measurements?

to the OP, i've used e-go.com.au to post body kit parts before, fairly cheap exercise. I sent my Altia rear bumper to QLD via them.

dude, you don't have to pay $50! 50 gets you a membership IF you want one. You can go to the this event FOR FREE, but if you want to win prizes/be judged etc, you have to be a member. The $50 membership price is 1) damn cheap 2) gets you much more than just 'eligibility' rights for a SnS, allows you to get a LS2 CAMS license, discounts from club supporters, access to club only events etc etc etc as for the entrance, if could be fine... i don't know. I just remember last time it was a little tricky to negotiate. The type of car does not matter, in fact there are plenty lower cars than ours Anthony... and a SnS is for everyone, hence all the categories, so please be mindful of this. EDIT: Ok, here's a pic - i think that was one of the issues last time, the parked cars made it hard to get a decent angle, but i suppose that's out of anyones control really... Apologies is this is not the entrance and i'm thinking of something else

i 'just' (as in scraped) last time in my GT-T and the reason i brought it up is, from memory, it was some sort of dirt entrance, so it would have had the chance to hollow out a bit since and back then we didn't really have anyone from the 'stanced' crowd... and if we get some of those type cars showing up, there might be some issues... that's all i'm saying.

yeah, that's why i asked about the entrance, was a little dicey when we used this venue a few years back. And i think there's only one entrance as well... someone was going to do a recce i believe to check.

super common problem, as Dan said, 99% likely to be coilpacks does the car sound different when the lights come on? sound like a WRX? i'm guessing coilpacks, and if that's the case get Splitfires, don't waste your time with yellow jackets etc. Just need someone to do a consult check of the error codes. But really, you're probably better off replacing the coilpacks as you'll probably have to do them sooner or later

the OP's avatar is a 2 door and i'm pretty sure that means the skirts aren't going to fit

mind if i ask how much the transfer mod was?? PM if you like

thought about going a bit further with the transfer case? if they're pulling it apart etc, would be a great time to add another plate or two for better response when power is switching from back to front - fantastic mod by all accounts

Midori has been doing this for a while.... i think i might be able to dig up some before vs after dyno graphs...

will entry be on the west side again? (this is where we've had it a few years back yes?) - if so, there may need to be some sort of ramp action? was a pretty gnarly 'entrance' from memory