Abo Bob

Yeah only worth it with bigger turbos. Cohen, the rule of Tomei is as stated above: Poncams...direct fit no spring change Procams....spring change. But... I don't see there being a massive problem with the difference between the poncam and the smallest procam that you have. Depending on costs, I would give it a go.

It seems that everyone is just reiterating their opinion rather than discussing the things that 700hpgtr brought up. It's just an idea. Why not discuss it? Maybe it will lead to a dead end, maybe not. Sure people have worked out other ways and those ways work but are there yet to be explored possibilities? I was going to suggest an external oil pump with pressure regulator so that pressure is not rpm related but I don't want to get shot down in flames.

It certainly is. I think the deal was that I gave my almost new Nismo 2way to Dan and I get the old Nismo 1way in return but if it blows up he pays for the rebuild. I hope it's strong.

What about this concept of putting some fuel cell foam in the cam covers somewhere? Can someone explain it to me? Does it work? Ps I built my engine before this thread was started and didn't pm SK to ask about oil control.

It will fit.

Mine said half when I hit 109 on the track the other day.

Don't get a Walbro. Try a second hand GTR pump but also what Craved said.

Turbos Neil, turbos.

The engine has a rev limiter not the transmission. If using it in tiptronic mode it holds whatever gear you put it in so I f you want you can bang up against the limiter all day long. It wont change gears until you tell it to.

Woot! Secret weapon still in boot. Retune tonight. 1 way diff tomorrow night. Pray we don't f**k it up.

25 Literrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrs. Ruff.

Cos they are shit. I already have one shit catch can. I don't want another. Mine will fit an R34 GTT perfectly.

I'm talking about Sam. I like the idea of knock protection however I blew my engine with one of these in it so it obviously doesn't work. If you have a manual then I still think the PFC is the way to go. If auto then a little persistance will pay off - for the people after you. Waz, you have an R32. Completely different and well known by tuners, including Sam. This is fairly new to R34's and different rules apply.

When I blew my engine by accidentally putting way too much boost into it, 3 and 5 pistons were stuffed and 4 was in pretty bad nick. I suppose this is partially due to the middle ones getting more air, thus being leaner at the time. If you have a PFC you can put more fuel in particular cylinders but I'm not sure what the potential side effects of this is. Can anyone answer that? Eg, if you did a dodgy cut and shut with the stocker, could you add fuel to 5 and 6 to compensate for extra air?

A Walbro sure as hell wont.

Don't worry about it. The stock water temp gauge shows nothing. I boiled over and it didn't even make it to the hot section. My water temp on the track the other day was 109 and it didn't move from the middle. 100 for oil is fine. If it goes over that much then worry.

Umm I need about 600x400 at a rough guess. Biggest piece 280x155 (2 of them), and some other bits. I'm making a catch can. I was hoping to get a sheet cos I want to get it professionally cut and welded.

Yeah I'm usually the dad. Get's annoying after a while. I lived in a house in Cairns that had between 5 and 12 people at any one time. One time one housemate asked to borrow my drill. I said yeah ok but put it away when you've finished with it cos you know what will happen if *Pablo gets a hold of it. So anyway, I'm arriving home from work that night. Walking up the stairs to the back door. Just as I'm about to grab the door handle I hear a BZZZZ and a drill bit comes out through the middle of the door! I open the door and there is Pablo with the drill in his hand laughing manically and giving the drill little revs. I took it off him. Turns out he drilled about 15 holes in various doors and walls in the house. Is that the kind of story you were after Troy? Or should I tell you about the time that I questioned 3 of the other 4 housemates about some filth and since they all denied it when the 4th one came home I got stuck right into him. Turned out he hadn't been home for 4 days and one of the others had lied to me. I was very embarrassed. * His real name.

Hardware stores don't seem to keep it. Where do I go? Basically need sheets of it about 3mm thick. What kind of place sells that?

Also check your pulleys are not out of alignment.

Hmm.. thinking out loud here. The way I see it, if you need braided lines it's because you have a spongy pedal because the lines you have are expanding. There wont be any expansion of the lines unless you have some pressure on them though so the sponginess due to brake lines can only be the part after you have full pressure on the pedal. In other words, that initial mushiness is not brake lines because I get it before there is any real pressure on the fluid. So back to the caliper seals. Is this replacing of caliper seals what you might call rebuilding the calipers? Did you do it yourself Troy? Any tips or tricks? Cost? I have recently replaced my booster. No change from that.

Yes it sux having your arm in it. I had a weird problem one night, had a full tank of fuel and had to replace and check the wiring on the pump about 5 times in an hour. It was about 30 degrees that night too and humid as hell. I had sweat and petrol drying on me for so long and it sucked. So yeah, fairly empty is good.

Maybe it's done 235000 k's and been modified then put back to stock and the in tank wiring is loose. There's a million posibilities and I'm a bit hesitant about directing you to do this or that when you don't even know what an ECU is. That's not supposed to be an insult, just an honest appraisal of the situation. Time to take it to a mechanic. Have you got one that works on imports? Whereabouts are you?

Yeah I think I remember you. You're the guy with the tattoo on the arm aren't you? :ninja: