Abo Bob

I installed it on my R34 and made a thread about it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=54462&hl=

I didn't realise you were talking about the stock oil cooler down where the oil filter connects. I bet you there are bunches of them in peoples garages from dead engines etc. What about people who went RB30 bottom end and have their RB25 bottom end sitting around gathering dust?

Thanks Drew. There are still about 8 spots available. Stan - it will be 3 lap sprints so they might not like it. They would only be just getting warm and then have to come off.

Probably be alright though.

I don't think it's worth it until you are going for a very big turbo and lots of boost. All you will be doing is increasing the time you take to spool up (more lag) and wont get any benefits. I got quoted $1200 to match port and polish and reduce the compression ratio. This would be ok and a better idea than using a thick head gasket.

He probably has the RB20 box in there still.

Sounds very much like the 0.68 (sorry everyone for accidentally calling it a 0.63 or 0.65 which I keep doing). It's only your results telling me that.

Back by friday! Jeez. What kind of rebuild are we talking here?

You ask the cops for the "Police Brief" and the video footage. They have to give it to you 2 weeks before or something like that but usually you're lucky if you get it on the morning. Michael, you sound like a pretty smart guy but your spelling is atrocious. Keep this thread updated cc and I will follow it. It will take me hours to type out a whole plan for you but if you call me at some stage I will explain some tricks and give you some tips on what to do. I'm a Barrister's Clerk.

The fronts are legal I think.. just. The rest was done in Japan, possibly factory. It can be hard to reverse park at night sometimes but for the other 99% of the time I love 'em.

Thanks Aaron and Matt. Yes we need you matt. I've put your name down for it.

Most of my paint job is less than 2 years old. That helps. Also I give it a full wax twice a year and spot polish it during the year. I don't think I've got any pics of that bit sorry but no I didn't full the holes. I've been meaning to but haven't got around to it and nobody notices it unless they go looking for it.

Well I think you should find yourself a different tuner. 14psi with stock turbo is just asking for trouble. I guess he's hoping you blow it and then go back to him to install a new turbo. Extremely dodgy advice there. To answer your previous question, I noticed no heat soak. Also the tune was done off the car.

The problem with the HKS GT2835 ProS kit is that it only comes with the 0.63 rear housing which sucks balls on an RB25. You need the 0.87 or whatever the middle one is.

Must be 900 grams minimum. Must be easy to reach for driver. Must be able to be released without tools - ie clips. Must stay in place with up to 25 g's applied. So basically the recommendation is for a metal bracket but it's not 100% necessary as long as the thing holds in there nice and strong.

So what is that 'black tracking' from? Is it all 4 wheels spinning the whole quarter mile?

Yes payment cleared. Yes fire extinguisher required. Yes extinguisher is for CAMS requirements.

Is there anything that can be done for the RB20 guys with all the excess 0.63AR exhaust housings from HKS GT2835 ProS? There are a lot of these things around because that's the one that comes with the kit. A lot of people get them for their RB25's and then find out the hard way that the exhuast housing is too small. At great expense they get the 0.87 rear thus 0.63 rears sitting on shelves in quantities.

Unless you're experiencing problems, leave it alone. Yes it does do a few nifty things. Traction control isn't one of them - that's your right foot. If you think you have traction issues with a stock turbo, please don't upgrade it. (no offence intended) That said. 0.9 bar is too much for the stock turbo and 0.6 is not taking advantage of what you have. 0.8 is good. You may need to adjust the boost duty cycle down a little to make sure it hits the right boost. Probably best not to play with it if you have no idea. Try reading the manual. If that doesn't help take it to a cruise that your local Skyliners are going on and someone there will know what to do.

I guess mine looks like a wedding car. Is this what you're after? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=107379&hl=

Doesn't work at all. SAFC II or FCD or ROM tune for autos. I had 189rwkw with ROM tune, 12psi, standard cooler.

That's probably all you need to do. And if you keep winding it past where it first closes it I guess you would be increasing the boost. If you don't need it I can swap you with my stock one with cash adjustment.

Two places are good. One, you make a aluminium strip that bolts onto the front two mounting bolts of the passenger seat. Second one you just use the passenger side rear seat mounting bolt. Remember you need to be able to reach it from the drivers seat. You can pay the cams licence on the day but best to have your membership to SAU sorted well before then and form can be done on the day but they will not be happy about that so please try to get it to them well in advance.

CAMS have a day licence so min cost is: SAU membership $60 CAMS day licence $40 (this amount can be applied if getting the full L2S later) Event entry $235 Don't forget fire extinguisher. I think we have 4 or 5 flaggies at this stage and need about 10.

http://www.ngkspark.com.au/part_index.htm?...ehicle_type.htm dunno if that link will work. Your Vehicle: 8/1998 - 10/2001 NISSAN STAGEA 2500 TURBO RB25DET Spark Plug Part No. Recommended Plug PFR6G-11 Iridium Option BKR6EIX-11 I noticed there was no R34 GTT so I went to the Stagea with the NEO engine. That is the stock (1.1mm) gap, sorry I don't know the number for the 0.8mm ones. Coppers can be easily regapped to 0.8 from 1.1mm. Iridiums can be too but just need to be more careful. No tapping it on concrete to gap it down. Yes at 12psi you will need 0.8 gap. If you have to go lower to stop misfiring there is something else wrong.