Abo Bob

We need a few more flaggies too please.

me - Abo Bob - 235 Jon Bates - Primordial - 235 Steve Reddel - steve_gts4 - 235 Adam Parsons - nath95 - 220 George Rokkas - yogi000 - 235 Andrew Tuitahi - tuitahi - 100 John Charalambous - silver gts-t - 100 ?? Aaron Li - Godzl1975 - 100 Paul Lewis - Oz GTR02V - 235 Stan Choi - satanic - 100 Shawn Malkic - Smoky - 220 Iain Anderson - R33deviat - 250 Amanda Moore - BWA - 235 Ralph Louwdyk - Oz GTR02V - 100 John Penlington - boosted zed - 100 Steve Bowman - Oz GTR02V - 100 Shane - Oz GTR02V - 100 Ray Dean - 100 Daniel Mackie - Majanal - 100 Matthew Anthony - 100 That's a list of who is in and what they have paid. I need more payments guys. Also, I need you all to fill out the entry form linked in the first post of this thread. I think only one or two people have actually done this so far.

Ok Dan. Let me know. Ando - yes your mate is welcome. Get him. We need the numbers at this stage.

I have done a full flush with 500ml before but to be thorough I normally use about 600-700mls. Annoying isn't it. You do realise that hard core brake fluid is even more hydroscopic than the normal stuff and needs to be changed much more often.

Can't see why they wouldn't be.

Oh man we gave away the rest of the tailshaft. I didn't need it so I thought you didn't either. You will have to give them your rear half, well if you're doing that you might as well give them the whole thing.

I killed mine at 228rwkw. I went to the track a lot. Heat kills them so do a couple of things. Be very careful when it's cold - no boosting or highish revs. It takes longer than your engine to warm up too. Put a transmission fluid temp guage in your car. Cheapest safety device ever. I just used an oil temp guage and plumbed it into the send line to the transmission cooler. Keep an eye on the temps and don't let it go over 100 degrees. Another thing you can do is a valve body upgrade from MV automatics in Adelaide. About $350 plus fitting. You take yours out and send it away then get it back 2 weeks later and refit. I did it myself in my garage without much knowledge and it was a c**t of a job but it was possible. The valve body increases the speed of the shifts which decreases the heat created. You could try putting Redline Racing ATF in. I put the High temp ATF in but a, it was too late for mine at that stage although I didn't know it at the time, and b, I should have put the racing one in. The racing one has no friction modifiers and every other fluid out there does. The friction modifiers create slip to make the shifts comfortable. Slip = heat = death. Also I don't believe you need to replace the standard R34 auto cooler. If any R33 owners are reading this - you do need to replace it.

And while I'm thinking cheap and nasty. Let's say the radiator isn't big enough anymore. Can I add a say 10 litre reservoir into the system, maybe in line with an external coolant line? The idea being that it acts as a heat sink giving you an extra say 5 laps before it's too hot.

Ok what about cheap power ups. It's got stock injectors. I've got another set of stock injectors lying around. There must be some sort of second hand MAP based ECU that could control say 8 injectors that I could buy cheaply?

It's a turbo. Stocker. So we are looking at pistons cost - probably free or not much and new head gasket - coupla hundred? And I'm away?

Ok, say I have a NEO sitting around with low compression in 2 cylinders. Presumed broken ringlands. Cheapest nastiest, get-it-back-on-the-road rebuild. What do I do? My guess. Turn the motor upside down. Remove sump. Remove crank etc. Remove suspect pistons and replace with second handies left over from someone elses rebuild. Do I need new bearings? Use new gasket on sump. Away I go? Let me know. ta. ps, no this is not the engine in my car.

Thanks John. Ok there are still quite a few people who haven't paid their second installment. Come on guys, it's the easiest ever payment plan. I will name and shame you tomorrow.

Nah. I took it up to Hills but Mark has stuffed his back so the cars are banking up. He said he will get into it tomorrow.

No it wasn't Rich.

Have you done yours yet Khoa?

Actually it has happened in both ways but more generally stuff that is linked to.

It's not a Nismo wing. It's an Altia wing and it's ugly as sin. The unfortunate part is that when you remove it you will be left with I think 3 or 4 big holes in your rear guards. Very bad. I have seen it with the sides removed but the boot part left and it looks ok. There are another 4 holes in the boot holding it on.

It's weird. I use Firefox. Instead of the image I get "IPB Image" written there. The other weird thing is that sometimes I might post in the thread that this happens in and then the images appear. Other times they never appear. I've even seen 1 image and several "IPB Image" in the same post, in other words, they are posted in the same way and I can see some but not others. Also I know it's not just me. People will post 'hey look at these pics' and about 5 people go 'oh cool nice pics' and another couple of people go 'I can't see them'.

I have been getting IPB image all over this forum lately.

Everyone wants to haggle. I don't even know this guy but $95 is almost giving them away and still you want to haggle?

Push clutches are cheaper too.

The pump cradle is not supposed to just float around. On my R34 there is a rib on the inside of the tank which the cradle slides on to. Are you sure you are removing your stock regulator and not one of the dampers? I have 2 dampers and a reg on mine and they look the same to me. Somehow when I tried to fit an adjustable fpr I hooked it up so the flow was backwards and I deleted a damper thus meaning I had two fpr in there. I have no idea how it ran at all but it did... just not very well.

So it's for real? They have heard that those other f**kheads at OP are making money charging bystanders an entry fee and are now doing it themselves?

eeek. I see your Charnwood and run... to Red Hill or something.

Faaark.