Abo Bob

Hey guys. Really sorry I haven't noticed this thread until now. I am the second person that I know of that has done the manual conversion. We both went to the same place but used different parts. I conveniently had a manual R34 wreck so I took all the parts from there except the clutch line going from the master cylinder to the slave which some fcuker stole from me. I would recommend using some R33 parts for 2 reasons. First is that they are more plentiful, second is that R33 GTST boxes use a push type clutch whereas the R34 GTT box uses a pull type clutch. The only reason this matters is because when looking at clutches to handle big power, push type are about half the price of pull type. You can get an R33 GTST gearbox for about $1500 if you can find one. R34 GTT boxes are similar in price but even harder to find. If you do use an R34 box you can use an R33 GTR clutch as they are pull type as well and fit up no problems. Also stronger. New clutch master and slave cylinders are not too expensive. Pedal assembly not too hard to find. Tailshaft must either come from a R34 manual (just the front half needed) or get a tailshaft specialist to make something up when you get a yoke from an R33. Any RB flywheel will fit, need a flex plate but that's cheap. Flywheel bolts aren't too cheap. So try to get them with the flywheel. Get the flywheel machined as you will be using a new clutch no doubt. So parts cost you are looking at I'd say anywhere between $2200 and $3500 Labour, both me and the other guy I know of got Greg from Autosport Engineering in Kirrawee (sydney) to do it for $1500 drive in drive out. Umm what else... The interior parts are very hard to find. Might get better luck at Yahoo Japan auctions. Mine is a 4 door and I used 2 door parts. Same wheelbase. Dash and steering wheel are extra and hard to find. About $300 for a cluster and $200-300 for a steering wheel. Clutch costs extra - depends how much power as to which one you get. Stock ECU will work fine. PowerFC plugs straight in too. Anything else?

I would recommend Louie at Xclusive colours. He does awesome work. Heaps of show cars, autosalon winners, etc, and he is accredited by the major insurance companies. How can you go wrong?

Thanks for that.

We definitely need you as a flag marshall. No fee. Wilch, that's exactly the kind of thing I was worried about. I've never seen so many track days for people to go to.

How many psi is that? Should be 36-38psi at idle.

Ok here goes, deep breath. Car is R34 GTT, was auto running a ROM tune. Ran fine, 255rwkw. Got manual conversion. Was supposed to get z32 AFM fitted and pfc tuned but dyno broke so took Z32 and pfc back out and back in ROM tune and stock AFM. Car ran fine, some hesitation and very rich but went ok at all boost levels. Got Z32 refitted and PFC fitted and tuned. 11.8:1 AFR. Ran nice for a couple of days. Started getting high knock levels. Took to a dyno where it ran 225rwkw and pinged and was rich off the scale. Suspected AFM was faulty as voltages seemed high for any given rpm/boost level. Seemed to get gradually worse. Day by day dropped the boost a little until it was 7 psi. No pinging there. Changed z32 for another - no fix. Found dodgy looking wiring to new afm. PFC was getting some voltage even with engine off. Told that PFC had been shorted by dodgy wiring. PFC sent to be fixed. Wiring fixed. Put old ROM tune (stock chipped ecu) and stock AFM back in thinking it would run fine as it did before but it didn't. Pinged and rich as hell at 12psi. Tried swapping CAS for a known good one. No change. Checked base timing at various stages, fine. So we have audible pinging at anything over 7psi. It's not leaning out, in fact it's very rich. It does it with PFC or ROM tune. Does it with 3 difference AFM's. Does it with 2 different CAS'. What am I missing here?

I spotted possm the other day. I think she is a lawyer. Spotted Shonen - DHC - on Victoria rd a short while ago.

Good for R34's since the coil packs are always dying but messy.

Bel Garage is reasonably close and are a good quality workshop.

They probably meant the old C3.

Let's go Duncan.

Check the events section. SAU are running a day on 8 October at Eastern Creek.

Don't do it man. It's not safe. I don't drive mine more than half an hour from home because I know it will break down if I go further. Take the bus.

I have read the rules and the plastic ones are legal. The scruitineers don't seem to like them but they are legal.

Nope. It has been confirmed that it will run. Need some more entries though.

Ahh so I'm not crazy.

I got 255rwkw at Bel on that dyno and 256rwkw at UAS on their Dyno Dynamics dyno in Shootout mode. Similar kind of day, a month apart with no changes to the car.

Haha nice. Man that woman is ugly.

Oh and neither of you got my plates right. hehe.

Haha spotted twice in a row. Yeah that's me Mass. Just took out the street name for safety but that's where I live. Most liners I see around the area don't wave so I've given up. I think Winks gf - or should that be ex - lives right near there and T04GTR works around the corner of course. And yes that was me in Annandale visiting a good mate of mine.

I paid $3 each. There's a guy who comes around and just does this. That's like his whole business, going round to back yard mechanics and replacing busted studs. Doesn't charge much.

Same day as the SAU Trackday...

I think it's either that or take them all out to be cleaned and flow tested. Costs about $20 each injector.

I have so many car conversations I've forgotten. Someone here asked me if I knew where to get an R33 GTST gearbox for a good price. I found one but now I can't remember who asked me. Send me a pm or post here. Adam.

7.5:1 is 1980's turbo style. When the tuner did his thing, did he push it to the point of detonation with boost and timing then pull back for saftey? Just wondering if it's low CR and the tuner didn't go to the edge to see where it was. That's still only an alternative to what every one else is saying about a really poor rebuild which seems more likely at this stage.