Abo Bob

You're a retard! hehe

"The quench zones are the flat areas of the cylinder head where the piston comes in close proximity to at TDC. Pentroof DOHC cylinder heads typically have 4 quench zones at the ends of the combustion chamber. Quench zones promote more complete burning and reduce the likeliness of detonation by increasing turbulence of the fuel air mixture as the piston comes to TDC by squishing the fuel air mixture towards the sparkplug and away from the end zones of the combustion chamber. This reduces the amount of fuel air mixture near the ends of the combustion chamber where it does not completely burn, thus being wasted by pushing or squishing it toward the centrally located sparkplug where it can easily be ignited." from here http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/january04/nerds/ Basically I'm talking about removing some material from the cumbustion chambers around the valves in particular but just generally. This means you will have a lower CR but you keep the squish zones which help with power and economy. It will cost a little more than a thick head gasket but not much and IMHO is a better solution.

If Aaron supplied the pump then yes but he didn't so no. Advan supplied the pump and fitted it. Through no fault of their own the pump was faulty and had to be removed and replaced under warranty. They, as the retailer have to wear it, not the customer. They need to factor this possibility into their pricing so that warranties don't cost them. I have had this exact scenario happen to me on a number of occasions but with computer parts. I bought new, I fitted, it broke, I removed it and refitted another one and I got nothing more than a replacement part from the supplier. I never charge the client as I believe it is my legal obligation to provide a working part for them. Apart from that I think I have a moral obligation to do the right thing by the customer. It shits me when it happens but it's up to me to price myself appropriately to cover for these eventualities. What you said about no warranty with performance is true to an extent and having that attitude will probably make you a happier person but it's nothing more than a generalisation which doesn't help with the details. All that said, there is no charge of impropriety here and consequently none found. It seems that the half time score did not turn out to be relevant to the final result.

Don't you worry about me

I am. Give me a call.

Well poo to you with knobs on. We shall meet, sir, on the hustings.

Not one person has cancelled. pm coming.

Look I've got no idea about the values you posted above but I can tell you that my coil packs died at a genuine 66,000 k's and having been around here for a few years now I can tell you that the R34 coil packs are quite likely to die between about 50,000 and 100,000 k's. All you guys have the same issue. Also I would not recommend getting second hand ones even though they may work fine now because eventually... Splitfires are the way to go I'm sorry to say.

I wonder what the paint cost is? I suppose it depends on the colour and whether it's acrylic or two pack. I've got no idea.

Did Keas tell you that? Feel free to do a manual conversion and don't by any means let me stop you but that's BS and more proof that the only person in Australia who knows these boxes is Mike at MV Automatics in Adelaide. Mike does an upgrade rebuild for about $3500 including modified valvebody for sharper shifts and rebuild torque converter for different characteristics. Obviously this would be cheaper if you don't want those two things but he does seem to recommend it. Mike warrants that it can handle at least 300rwkw and that's only because no one has put more through one of them to test higher power levels. I have 255rwkw and I thrash it everywhere. NPs. The only other thing I will say before I huff on out of here is surely a second hand auto wold be a cheap solution to your problem? Sorry to intrude guys. Just putting in a point for the much maligned auto. Now you can go back to the point of this thread.

Did we work out if one bottle fills the box? If so, 1 please.

Unless it's a friend doing you a favour a $1500 or $2500 paint job will always be shit compared to a proper job. I recommend Louie at Xclusive Colours. He is cheap (not as cheap as above) but does show quality work.

very pretty.

oh well back to the wheel bearing then. haha

Yeah you should only have to pay for one pump and one fitment thereof.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=114749&st=20# That links to the wing as previously discussed in this thread. It's page 2 if that doesn't work. As for interior bit's and pieces, there must be hundreds. It would far easier if you told us what you were after and we checked for it then priced it. Send Stan or myself a pm, handy to have pics in the pm also to help in identifying the correct part. You can have the centre vent for $30 plus postage.

It's cheap to get rotors machined and despite what it seems like in this thread Skylines actually only fairly rarely do wheel bearings. If you've seen a Skyline wheel bearing out of the car you'll understand why. They are bigger than any other wheel bearing I've ever seen. (Not to say bigger ones aren't out there, just that I haven't seen them.) I suggest doing the rotors first to see if that's it then if not look at doing the wheel bearing.

Cool. Now I'm curious as to how it happened. I always bed my pads in properly and I cool the brakes down properly on track days but on this occasion I was coming off the track and another person was also coming off in front of me. As we pulled in to the pit lane the Clerk of Course stopped the guy in front of me to tell him off for something which meant I was stopped behind him. Thinking this would only take a few seconds I sat there with hot brakes and my foot on them for probably 1 minute. It appeared to me that this was where the damage was done and the shuddering started but.. why only one rotor? And, why are there grooves in it and not the other? Do you think the pad had an uneven balance of material or something? I believe the grooves were there before the track day to a slight extent but were massive afterwards. I run Bendix Ultimates street and track. Thinking of getting some Ferodo DS2500 (I think?)for the track and some other street pad that isn't so dusty.

Price drop. Quite strange.

After the last track day I had bad brake shudder. It basically went away after a couple of weeks of light city braking. I've had the wheels off and one rotor is quite grooved and obviously needs machining. The other side seems fine. Can I and should I machine just that side or is this bad? Thanks.

They are a pretty quality workshop. It may be that the pump is out of flow but as mentioned, if it's still leaning out with a bigger pump then maybe something else is wrong.

Pretty scary stuff.

That's right.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=121506&hl=

I can hear mine for a while afterwards and I don't hvae a pod.