Abo Bob

Yes you go through the boot. It's on that shelf part on the drivers side. There is a metal plate with 4 10mm bolts. Take that off then you will see the top of the tank. Use a piece of wood and a hammer to get the round plastic cap thing off after you remove the hoses.

I also think it's an exhaust leak between either the head and the manifold or between the turbo and the manifold. The second one is the one that I did.

Looking great so far. There is a link in the first post to the CAMS L2S form. Best to organise that in the next few weeks to spread your expenses out. Details are on the form but suffice to say you send the money and the form to them to save us the admin. There is no day licences available except where someone has paid but not received theirs yet or something similar. As the newbies at the Oran Park track day can attest, you will want to go again so a yearly licence wont go to waste. I would very much like all payments in by the start of June but this is looking like a popular day so don't blame me if you miss out. I think up until then you should be right no problems but I can't guarantee after then. It's just a matter of how full we are. Brenden, Victor, Ethan, Brad, Chris, Joe, Ando and John - all people I know will have a ball out there and what else can I say; ABOUT TIME!!!11 hehehhee Moanie and Liz heading up the girls contingent. Where's Amanda and who are the other girls that lurk but haven't come to a track day yet?

There's a good reason to never go wherever Ignition goes.

That's sounding more like it.

I have owned my R34 for 2.5 years and for two separate periods of 6 months each my central locking didn't work. It fixed itself both times and is working fine now. I put it it down to lazy actuator which freed up.

He's on holidays Nik. Also, in case anybody wants to know the turbo has about 10,000k's on it and never boosted over 1 bar.

It definitely goes away and it's like a switch. It goes: Start engine, exhaust is normal for about 20-30 seconds then smoke comes out and it smells bad. About 3 minutes later it just stops completely. I will try what you say Jerry. I'll also check out my intake pipes and cooler if possible.

Sweet. Great early response guys. Timing is included.

Hey guys here is my issue, On stone cold start ups only I get smoke out of the exhaust which I'm pretty sure is burning oil. It lasts about 3 minutes then goes away. Car runs fine otherwise. It's not condensation, there is enough smoke to fill the whole garage. Engine is about 4000k's old. Didn't get this smoke at run in or in the time after that before now. Basically I put some 10w60 oil in there for about 500km's cos that's all I had handy and that's when it started. I changed back to 10w40 and still the same. I thought maybe I had overfilled it but tried with less at last change and no difference. My catch can doesn't go back into the intake. I can't think of anything else atm. Thanks.

Ok then: ........................................2x14"........1x16"........Which wins? Weight...............................3kg...........3kg..........Nothing in it Amps needed......................22.............19...........16" Litres of air moved while sitting still..........................1000.........1000..........Nothing in it Litres of air moved at 40P of inlet pressure............780...........850...........16" What I don't know is why they flow less once you are moving, perhaps it's a relative thing. Ie; they don't count the air the would have gone through anyway. I think the decisive factor here is power consumption. Use more power, put more load on the engine, robs it of power and uses more fuel.

Edit - All spots are taken now but I am taking a reserve list so post your interest here in the thread and i will contact you if a spot becomes available. It's not uncommon for a spot to come up so don't be shy. The date is locked in. Members price will be $140. Non members price another $10 on top of that. You do need a CAMS L2S licence which costs $85 for a year but a number of you will already have these. EDIT - you DON'T need a CAMS licence for this event. I was misinformed about this and offer my apologies to those that have paid for theirs already. The CAMS licence will still be needed for the Eastern Creek track day in October and there are other track days around that it is useful and cheaper for. If you don't have a CAMS licence you do need a Wakefield Park Club Comp Licence which you get from the track itself on the day if you don't already have one. I think these are $40 a year. The CAMS licence negates the need for this though. Again we will need a couple of flag marshalls - no experience required but a sensible attitude is a must. The flaggies that helped out at the last track day had a great time so don't think it's a boring job. The best part is that you are so close to the action. That and the 2 way radio whoring. The day will be run by SAU and RENEW and I can tell you from experience that these guys put on a very well organised and safe track day. It will be good for both beginners and the more experienced. There will be plenty of experienced people on hand to instruct and make you feel comfortable on the track. I doubt very much whether we would have the slowest car or the fastest so the rotary guys compliment us as a club and they are nice people to boot. For those who haven't been to the track in their car before it is great fun and very addictive. The good thing is that Wakefield Park has got to be the safest track to race on. There is only one wall and it's along the straight so there's not much chance of hitting it. Please post your interest here. Ok then. It's time to get depositing. The Skylines Australia bank account details are as follows: Bank - NAB Branch - Marrickville Account name - Skylines Australia NSW BSB - 082 356 Account number - 546 393 766 Please put your full name in the description. If you are depositing at a branch then make sure you put your name on the deposit form (I know there is a spot for it on there somewhere) and ask the teller to enter it so he/she doesn't forget. When you have done all this email me at - bob at estc dot net dot au - with your internet banking receipt or date and branch of deposit. Please include in the email: Full name - User name on the forums - Mobile Number - Amount paid - Copy and paste the above to make it easier for me. Important - You will not be confirmed until a deposit has been made. CAMS L2S Application form - Click to download Accomodation thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=118391 ENTRY FORM HERE This form goes to RENEW, details on the form itself.

Route 66 on Crown street near oxford street Surry Hills. And change your signature or at least make it about 1/8 the size it is now.

Spotted... Slim in the spotted thread.

I was going to post that I saw you but then I thought, 'was it a 260 or a 280? I don't know.' and then the moment was lost. Thanks mate but it's pretty dirty since the track day. You don't know how close I was to owning a 280 a year or so ago. I test drove then was going to get it the following week but blew my turbo on the weekend.

Also there's no point in running the fan when the engine is off unless you also have an electric water pump running to circulate the water otherwise you are just cooling the radiator and nothing else. It has been proven and I believe stated earlier in this thread that 2x12's DO NOT pull as much air as one 16".

Ok I guess no one wants this as a package so now I will offer for sale the engine with turbo, coilpacks, loom and ECU but no AFM for $3000

Handbrake assembly (at the wheels) sold.

I stole this: "The first thing to understand is that "compression ratio" (CR) as it is usually talked about is best termed "static compression ratio". This is a simple concept and represents the ratio of the swept volume of the cylinder (displacement) to the volume above the piston at top dead center (TDC). For example, if a hypothetical cylinder had a displacement of 500cc and a 50cc combustion chamber (plus volume over the piston crown to the head) the CR would be 500/50, or 10:1. If we were to mill the head so that the volume above the piston crown was decreased to 40cc, the CR would now be 500/40, or 12.5:1. Conversely, if we hogged the chamber out to 60cc, the CR would now be 500/60, or 8.33:1." from here To answer the other questions you have put; People don't lower the CR 'for the turbo to kick in', they do it to lower the detonation threshold. In other words, the higher the CR the closer you are to detonation and therefore engine destruction. Non turbo engines can handle much higher CR than turbo engines. I'm not sure that I can explain why properly. So if you are turning a non turbo engine into a turbo one you need to lower the CR to lower the threshold at which detonation becomes likely. Yes you can use a thicker head gasket to lower the CR but this is a cheap and nasty way to do it which is why if someone is doing the job properly they will machine the combustion chamber instead (boring the head). They do this so that when the fuel and air comes into the cylinder it gets mixed together properly. You need as homogenous a mixture as possible because without it you can get hot spots which can again cause detonation. The shape of the combustion chamber makes this happen partially by use of squish zones. This is the area between the part of the head that comes closest to the piston and the piston when it is at the top. What these do is squish the mixtures out as the piston rises mixing them better. If you use a thick head gasket instead of taking bit's of unneeded metal out from the combustion chamber you effectively delete the squish zones meaning less homogenous mixtures in the cylinder. I'm sure it could be explained better by someone more knowledgable than me but that's the gist of it.

Changing fuels pumps doesn't affect anything except it's ability to give more fuel up high with more boost. That said I put a walbro in once and the pressure increased dramatically at low revs making it run too rich. A second hand GTR pump fixed that and is a good cheap upgrade for you too.

It'll be Gulf Western. I guess I missed the tropical north queensland part.

Many people recommend you keep the stock fan but if you must go thermo then get one 16" rather than 2 12's. I'm not sure 2 14's would fit anyway. The only other reason I can think to have a thermo on your intercooler would be if it was a stocker and you used it to cool the thing down at the lights before you take off but after you just boosted. Not much use but that's all I can think of. There are plenty of better things to spend your time and money on.

What did you end up getting brenden?

That's funny. The only two R33GTS4's I've seen, one had an RB26 and the other was Doughboy's car. Not sure what it had but sure wasn't atmo.

Any synthetic between 0w30 and 10w40 would be my preference if I was you.