Abo Bob

ooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh noooooooooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwww IIIIIIIIIII seeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Done.

I do work sometimes ps I don't understand your ps.

Me.

Just some info I had lying around. Can't find CA. R = 6 cylinder, closed deck. B = Gasoline application using cast iron/nickle based block. S = 4 cylinder, closed deck. R= Gasoline application using sand-cast alloy based block. K = 4 cylinder, closed deck. A = Gaslone application using sand-cast iron based block. Q = 4 cylinder, open deck. R = Gaslone applcation using die-cast alloy based block.

Someone buy these from me to get them out of my way.

It is only 2.5" so get a full 3" system on there and forget what's there now.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=47510&hl= Check this thread out mate. It appears 3rd gear in that gearbox is the weak one.

3" is all you need.

I see. I can feel mine lock up in 3rd gear also. I was just wondering if there was any advantage in locking it up earlier or later than usual cos I can see how to control that function? Do you think maybe it doesn't lock up under full power?

Just realised I left a 0 out of my original post but yeah I just gradually upped the revs I was using so I probably did stay under about 3500rpm for the first 50km or so.

Does it lock up at low speeds or higher? What speeds/rpm does it lock up? Why does this thing exist? I know how a toque converter works but can't seem to find anything on this aspect of them. Thanks.

Well if you look like working on it next weekend give me a call during the week some time and I will come up for a day and help you out.

Also cams with a longer duration reduce the dynamic compression ratio meaning you can run more timing before it pings, particularly in the mid range.

Check back about 3 pages mate.

Sweet. Thanks for that. Go SAU!

Just trying to work out what's wrong with the temp gauge in the R31 and trying to eliminate the sender unit from the equation. I've always been pretty hopeless with the old multimeter but I can work out how to make it show 12 volts between + and - terminals of the battery so that setting should do me. With the engine off and the sender disconnected I touched the red wire to the + of the battery and the black one to the sender unit where the wire connecting it goes normally. The voltage was quite erratic between about 0.3 volts and 1.3 volts. Next I started it up and plugged the sender in, red to + and black shoved in the connector to the sender. I got a fairly steady 5 volts. Engine was warm by the way. So what is it supposed to read? How do I check it? Like the first way or the second way or another way? I think the gauge is stuffed but I want to eliminate the sender before I pull the dash apart. Cheers.

He means only for Club members. AFAIK neither of you guys are club members.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110923 Just in case people didn't notice it at first.

Far out Dan! What a massive effort! If I had some spare time I would come up and do some sanding for a day. I'll see where you are up to next weekend.

This is probably it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=103538&hl=

My engine builder told me 500-1000km and that's what I did. I didn't redline it until after 1000km, now has 4000 and running well. Builder said if it was going to fail he wanted it to fail early so get stuck into it!

bump

OMGWTFBBQ! Was that you Stan!?!?!?!?! ... And is that where we were? I got us lost going somewhere I've been 20 times before!

Sounds like there are different strength springs and maybe the softer spings allow the spike.

We've had as little as 6 skylines on a weekday event or as many as 30 on the weekend. There are about 45-50 spots all up but don't forget that there will be plenty of rotaries trying for those spots.